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prkaye

Well Known Member
I think I'll wait until much later to install my fiberglass tips, but I was looking to see how they will fit (elevator tips). The trailing edge of the tip doesn't quite fit... for one the trailing edge wedge is in the way, and also the fiberglass trailing edge is a touch longer than the elevator trailing edge. Is this common? Is it overcome simply by sanding and trimming the fiberglass tip until it fits under the skin?
 
Yup and Yup

If you fill your tips (layer of fiberglass cloth flowwed by filler) then you won't see any gap.

But its a lot of work for not much benefit IMHO...Mine are fille.

Frank
 
In my case the problem doesn't appear to be a gap, but rather that I can't physically fit the fiberglass tip in place, because the trailing edge of it is too long...
 
How much longer is it?

Is it possible you have the wrong tips?

You can shave of some of the glass from the front if the tip is too long.

Frank
 
If I'm remembering correctly, you'll cut some of the front of the flange off so the counterweight fits. That will allow the trailing edge to slide right in, and you make your adjustment at the leading edge. I cut mine plenty short, and will cover the weights up with glass later...

1-1-06-004w.jpg
 
Perhaps I'm not explaining the situation properly... the tip is the correct length, it's just that the flange won't slide into the elevator at the trailing edge because the trailing edge wedge, and the last trailing edge rivet, are in the way. If I were to cut away the flange at the trailing edge of the tip, it would fit.
 
I'm on the same page as you now...I trimmed the flange in that area as well to get it to fit. That TE wedge is tighter than the flange wedge. :)
 
Lots of Fiddley Work....

Phil,

Yes, it takes a lot of filing, sanding, cutting, and fine shaping to get those things to fit in at the trailing edge - or at least it did for me. That's the bad news. The good news is that none of it is going to see much in the way of flight loads, and the rivets all along the edge are gonna hold those suckers in just fine. One of the reasons I filled the gap between the skin and tip was because I didn't get as nice of fit as I wanted. Maybe by my third set of elevators, I'd do better.....

But hey, I had to have SOMETHING to do while waiting for my wings and fuse to arrive.. :rolleyes:

Paul
 
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Sand, file, cut, reglass, etc to fit. The rudder was the worst fit on mine (-8), a good 1/4" off in some places. Make it work, thats what you do.
 
Anybody consider using nutplates and screws for the tips, instead of rivets? Just thinking for repairs down the road, if the tips ever become cracked or need to be serviced, drilling out the blind rivets would be a pain...
 
Phil,
Nutplates are fine. I will use them on the lower rudder tip since there will be a light assembly. Cracking can always be stopped by stop-drilling and then repaired without taking the tip off, so I think most folks rivet them on if there are no other access needs.
Carl
 
prkaye said:
Anybody consider using nutplates and screws for the tips, instead of rivets? Just thinking for repairs down the road, if the tips ever become cracked or need to be serviced, drilling out the blind rivets would be a pain...
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You could do this, but CS-4-4 rivets are a piece of cake to drill out in my experience. Also remember that -9's seem have a tendency to be a little tail heavy. Screws and platenuts would only exacerbate this (even if not very much). Good luck.
 
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