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delusional

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Slow out of the gate. I finished the training kit aileron section thingy. I'd like some feedback but not sure where to look for that: EAA TC, local A&P, ???

I know it isn't passing yet, but I'd love to have some idea of how far off i am before I go destroying real airplane part$. Maybe I'll even do another one of these. $35 is much less than even an elevator skin, I bet...
 
If nobody here answers, try the local EAA chapter, or look through the VAF member list and see if there's someone nearby. Most folks would be happy to help you out if they are nearby.

greg
 
Richard,

Post some pictures of your test piece, especially of the shop heads of the rivets and you are bound to get some constructive feedback from the gurus.
 
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Hi Richard....

There's a real easy gauge you can make for checking your shop head diameter. Since they should be 1.5 times the orignal diameter, drill a 9/64" hole on one end of a piece of scrap and a 3/16" hole on the other end. The 9/64 is the diameter for a 3/32 rivet and the 3/16", the diameter for an 1/8" rivet.

Your leading edge roll looks like you did not use a piece of pipe to make a smooth radius. Is that instruction not in the kit?

Best,
 
long story

Thanks, Pierre,

Actually, I did the pipe thing but a couple things happened. First, I think the diameter of my "pipe" was a bit large at 1.25". Nonetheless, the curved bends initially came out pretty good and it probably would have turned out just fine, but I couldn't leave well enough alone. The other problem was that the initial bend I put at the very edge of the top sheet wasn't quite enough, so I ended up with quite a large gap at the seam.

So in a misguided attempt to "improve" the gap, I tried to increase the initial edge bend using some clamps, wooden blocks and a wooden mallet, which, obviously, didn't go well...

I've got the rivet checker and the shop heads, while not beatiful, are all at or above the minimum diameter. Some of the flush heads stick up considerably more than .002 and I'm not sure whether it's the dimples or my riveting technique.

I think I'll try the whole thing over, and maybe I can convert these into wheel chocks or something else useful, beer cans maybe.....
 
delusional said:
I think I'll try the whole thing over, and maybe I can convert these into wheel chocks or something else useful, beer cans maybe.....
Click to expand...

IMG_0609.JPG


:)
 
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Richard, are you using a rubber-guarded rivet set on your rivet gun? I recently purchased one and didn't like it, so I went back to the standard mushroom set. Seems easier to get the rivet to sit all the way down with a standard mushroom set.
 
Here is one thing you can do with your kit - Cut out the alu in the middle - and use it to practice riveting on - You could also make a simple 90 deg angle - each leg about 3/4 long ... and rivet them to the flat sheet .. then keep cuting it up and keep riveting ... Try to drill out all the rivets. That is good practice to .. as we all have to drill our rivets ... that also make it easier to cut up the alu - just cut using the old holes as a line ... Try different setting on your rivet gun - high ; low pressure etc ... I have rubber guard set I have never used. The rubber is to stiff. Practise with a normal "dome shaped" mushroom set.. some people sand down the rubber to get a closer fit to the alu sheet ... also look at all the EAA training video clips ... you could also try and make a rib ... using a wooden form block .. (see EAA) .. its more practice ...
Have fun !!
 
Practice Kit

Richard,

I'll pass on a couple of tips that worked for me. I found a 1" pipe worked about right for the rolled leading edge. I found securing the pipe to the table top with j bolts (or U bolts on the practice kit) works great and keeps the skin from creasing at the spar. Secure your work before riveting. If the part being riveted moves, you're not likely to get good results. I think this is especially true for us new guys. Lastly, parts are cheaper than you might think. Check out "the list" on Vans site and you will see that they sell individual parts at very reasonable prices. Get with a local builder and order that tail kit. Good luck.
 
I agree with flyfalcons. I tried the rubber-footed thingy, and hated it. Went back to the normal mushroom driver with a bit of tape on the end, and had much better success.

greg
 
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