J

JimP

Active Member
Definatley a "hate my airplane day"! Has anyone had problems fitting the forward upper skin on a tipper? I can cleco the aft holes just fine, but if I cleco one of the sides down, I'm about .125 off on the opposite side, if not a little more. I can cinch this down but it appears to be putting some stress on the firewall. Any tricks here? Next step is to just order the raw sheet and make my own, match drilled to the existing (except the outboard holes).

Jim
 
Have no fear Jim! Its the same for everyone. I went as far as pre bending mine in a metal brake (rolled) and it helped a bunch. I would suggest clecoing from the center of the skin and outboard on both sides at the same time. Those last ones (#30's) are always gonna be a bear due to the skin thickness and not beaing able to roll the skin that close to the edge. You will have that thing on and off at least 30 times before it ever get riveted on permanently and each time it gets easier.

Check out this page near the bottom. You can see the skin pre bent and my wonderful comments and hand.

http://www.jeffsrv-7a.com/FUSELAGE/05-02-27.htm

-Jeff
 
Sorry guys,
Can't help you on this one. Back in the old days it came as "raw material." We had plenty to work with.
Mel...DAR
 
Very tight fit. It takes a bit of cranking on the clecoes to get it in place. Once on, it will look fine.

Roberta
 
Hey Jeff, nice job on the website!

Tell me, that looks like a hammered finish paint you are using. Is it spray bomb or are you shooting bulk paint out of a gravity gun?

I am going to give the latter a try. It is so much more cost effective.

:rolleyes: CJ
 
Captain_John said:
Hey Jeff, nice job on the website!

Tell me, that looks like a hammered finish paint you are using. Is it spray bomb or are you shooting bulk paint out of a gravity gun?

I am going to give the latter a try. It is so much more cost effective.

:rolleyes: CJ
Click to expand...

CJ- Thanks and I sent you a PM.
 
Response fro Vans

I did get a response from Vans on this and they suggested to clamp wood blocks on either side of the firewall and tap the upper flanges down a bit. I tried this and it seemed to work.

Jim
 
All of the above, good advice. I found that to get the very forward holes cleco'd I "pushed" the top of the firewall forward about 3/8 inch. After the cleco's were installed I "tap" the firewall top aft until it is back in the correct place. Have done it at least 4 times now, as someone else said, you'll have it on and off many times..
Larry
 
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