briand

briand

Well Known Member
How do these fit together?

It looks like the 815 bottom flange will not go in far enough to get adequete edge clearance with the prepunched hole in the bottom of the 804.

Also anyone remember how they got the AN3-11A bolt in the top of the 814EPP where the seat ramp angle interferes?

I thought about going in from the front but the AN4 filler bolt gets in the way. I can remove the AN4 if I have to but maybe someones got an idea.

 
More Pics. HELP

http://img235.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture128ke0.jpg



http://img89.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture131bc7.jpg



http://img230.imageshack.us/my.php?image=picture129ad7.jpg


I took measurements and the outboard portion of the 807 is being held too far aft by the F813 by about 5/32", which is about exactly what I would get if I moved the foreward part of the 815 ALL inboard of the 804 flange. Has anyone had to trim ribs to get the required dimensions here.

Don't confuse the picture in the last post for being that I don't have the 815 fore as far as it will go. I just pulled the F-815 back a little to show how the parts match up. Vans already confirmed they are assembled properly but didn't really have any advice on my problem. :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
briand said:
How do these fit together?

It looks like the 815 bottom flange will not go in far enough to get adequete edge clearance with the prepunched hole in the bottom of the 804.

Also anyone remember how they got the AN3-11A bolt in the top of the 814EPP where the seat ramp angle interferes?

I thought about going in from the front but the AN4 filler bolt gets in the way. I can remove the AN4 if I have to but maybe someones got an idea.
Click to expand...

I have the same problem on mine. The hole I drilled in the 805 (using the pre-punched hole in the 804) does not meet edge distance requirements. How does the distance between your main spar and rear spar attach points on your fuse measure against your wings' distance between the main and rear spar? I thought that was the critical measurement here. Mine is right at 26.5". Is yours the same on both sides of the fuse?

I am planning to put a small doubler at the intersection of the 805 and 804. Since I am just now starting to rivet the skins onto the fuse, I can't say I won't have trouble in this area further down the line.

As far as the AN4 bolt... Mine is inserted from the front and the nut is on the back against the seat ramp. I am not sure what AN4 "filler" bolt is getting in your way.
 
Did you find that the f-815's were pushing the 807 back via the F-813s?

I can't meet the dim. required for MY wing spars with the F815 oriented to the 804 flanges as shown in the pic. I will probably have to move that rib inboard but I can't help but to think something HAS to be wrong.

I wonder if the quickbuilders in the Phillipines put much care in these things or if they just slap em together. How do they know what your or my wing spars measure?

I don't see an issue with putting the whole rib inboard if thats what it takes but I will push Vans for an ok before I do. I see no other way. I am completely baffled that no one else has had this problem, unless my 813s and 815s were somehow stamped wrong.
 
Briand,

Actually, my 815 IS inboard of the 804 flange. That was actually a mistake on my part that I did not catch until it was too late. So I can't say whether I had your problem while the 815 was outboard of the 804 (like yours). However, my main to rear spar distances do match the wings.

If you do move the 815 inboard (I'd be interested to hear what Van's says about this; I didn't want to get yelled at! :eek: ) you may want to install a tapered spacer on the outboard side of the 815 next to where the 815 mates with the 804. I put one at the top and bottom of the 815. The problem is the skin has to transition from 804 to the 815 and with the 815 inboard of the 804, you have the thickness of the 804 flange plus the 804H side panel which makes that transition rather abrubt. I afixed a small spacer that is a little thicker than the 804 flange on the forward end. The spacer is flat until you get past (going aft) the first sideskin-to-805 rivet. It then tapers down to the 805 before the next rivet. I showed it (sheepishly) to my tech counselor when he came by and he thought it was fine. I'd still like to hear what Van's folks say (after ther requisite beration, of course).

BTW, even with doing this though, my 815's do not butt all the way up against the 804. Like I said earlier, the hole in the bottom flange of the 815 does not meet edge distance requirements.
 
I think there might be a design flaw here. Its funny because the dwg that shows this area shows the flange on the 804 bottom stoping before the last outboard rivets. I don't remember the dwg. #, I'll look it up when I get home.

Did you put the rivet through the 822, 804 and 815 even though there was inadequete edge distance?
 
Ok I just received a reply back from Gus at Vans and he says (this is not an exact quote) I should cut the f-815 web where it contacts the .032 angle to allow it to move forward. The critical dim. is the 804 to 806 that MUST match the wing and I have to do what I have to do.


I need a beer first then I'll tackle reworking that stupid 815.

Maybe builders who are still working on the floor sub assy. should take note and cut some of this rib web away before riveting the 815 rib to its angle.

I recommend triming 5/16" which should still leave plenty of edge clearance for the first rivet in the 815c to 815a
 
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