Wes

Member
Ok, so how much of a pain is it to rivet on the F-425 fuselage top skin? Has anyone used blind rivets? Other than aesthetics, are there any disadvantages to using blind rivets here? My helper (aka my wife) is a little claustrophobic and probably won't fare well inside there; and I certainly don't trust her on the outside with the rivet gun. I figured blind rivets would be a good compromise; she doesn't have to climb inside the rear of the fuselage and I get my airplane put together withouts dents all over it (from her using the rivet gun on the outside).
 
I find it easier for my less experienced help to run the gun, and me to run the bucking bar.
 
Be safe my friend...Stick with solid rivets. The whole outer shell of the aircraft is designed to take the stress loads. Don't skimp and take a short cuts here or anywhere. Yes, I understand there are many of aircraft that use blind rivets...but it's wise to stick to what the plans call for, solids!
Option #1, learn how to back rivet, aka...put the rivet in normally, bucking bar on the outside against the factory head and you'll be on the inside with a rivet gun. Works very well, takes practice. Use a long 6' round (button) head set, cut the tip of the set off at a very slight angle so you can work on the backside of the bulkhead. Now you have a very small flush set rivet driver. Be sure to polish the set for a good finish on the rivet shop head.
Try this link for a basic idea.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5Xuu6nIZRPo

Also, do a search for "back riveting"

Or, find another good riveter, you can have the skin installed in one afternoon and enough time to fire up the BBQ afterward.

Also, use AC43.13-1B...and the big note that says:
CAUTION: For sheet metal repairs to airframe,
the use of blind rivets must be
authorized by the airframe manufacturer or
approved by a representative of the FAA.


It's your aircraft and you're the manufacture. But, please remember, if something does happen and the skin fails or its a weak link...who is going to affect?
 
Last edited:
Fuse

bruceh is right on this one. I would be more concerned about damaging the skins by back riveting with the inexperienced hand on the factory head dolly.

Put your helper on the gun outside and just make sure they are confident they wont skitter off. Steady the gun like a pool que. Be carefull you dont pull a muscle in the fuse as it is awkward. Take time to prepare a comfortable leaning surface. PPE - EAR protection !!! ... huh? Pardon ?

That said my biggest hassle was getting the holes in the right spot. Riveting was pretty easy.

Regards

Mark

http://rv-4builder.blogspot.com/