[az_gila]

I just installed the Vans exhaust hangar kit, but as I stepped back and looked I found the cross tube blocked the mixture cable path.

On a -6A, standard Vetterman cross over system with the newer formed ball joints, I found the 9 inch heat muff on the right side restricted how far forward I can position the hanger clamps.

The mixture cable exit on the firewall is very low, the O-360-A1A carb control cable bracket is also pretty low, and the nose gear support is in the middle. All of these items are conspiring against me.

This solution, though it does involve attachment to the airframe and not the engine would be an easy fix.

A 2011 posting here and one of Vetterman's recommendations.

Since it's been 4 years since this posting -
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=572206&postcount=1

Do any of you have a good operational experience with this arrangement?

Thanks... frustrated in Tucson...

 

[flyinga]

I have no experience with this type of setup, however I would not hard-mount the exhaust in that manner.

Bonanzas use a similar mount but incorporate rubber grommets to allow limited movement.

 

[az_gila]

I have no experience with this type of setup, however I would not hard-mount the exhaust in that manner.

Bonanzas use a similar mount but incorporate rubber grommets to allow limited movement.

Thanks, but it's a Vetterman recommendation and I'm looking for actual experience.

The rubber in the Adel clamps make it not "hard mounted" and the ball joints in the two final pipes of the cross over system allow for larger movements during the "wet dog shake" as the Lycoming is switched off.

 

[J Crate]

Gil, although I only have 100 hours flying with that setup, I have been very happy. Cockpit vibration levels seem to be about the same, but I do believe that I am getting a little better cooling. As you know on a 6A there is a lot of stuff that interfers with the cowl exit air and this setup helps eliminates a little bit of that. I have had zero breakage issues in my 100 hours, but do check before every flight.

Cheers,

John
RV6A C-FNLY

 

[az_gila]

Gil, although I only have 100 hours flying with that setup, I have been very happy. Cockpit vibration levels seem to be about the same, but I do believe that I am getting a little better cooling. As you know on a 6A there is a lot of stuff that interfers with the cowl exit air and this setup helps eliminates a little bit of that. I have had zero breakage issues in my 100 hours, but do check before every flight.

Cheers,

John
RV6A C-FNLY

Thanks John,

Nice to hear abut the vibration levels, and any extra cooling would be good in Arizona.

Did you use a straight flat 1/8 bar, or did you chop down one side of an angle as in the picture I posted?

 

[grubbat]

Replacement?

Gil,
Is this setup a replacement to the tube and fuel hose arrangement or in addition to? I just did the tube and hose method and would like to get rid of that hardware and go with the new style if possible. I had the tube setup on my old -6 and once I didnt care much for it especially when it got some oil on it. However it worked.
Cj

 

[az_gila]

Gil,
Is this setup a replacement to the tube and fuel hose arrangement or in addition to? I just did the tube and hose method and would like to get rid of that hardware and go with the new style if possible. I had the tube setup on my old -6 and once I didnt care much for it especially when it got some oil on it. However it worked.
Cj

I think a less used alternative may be a better description than replacement.

It does look easier to implement and has less parts, but it does need the Vetterman exhaust ball joints to work and be kept free. He recommends Mouse Milk on the joints every time the cowling is off - no big deal.

 

[J Crate]

Did you use a straight flat 1/8 bar, or did you chop down one side of an angle as in the picture I posted?




I used 1/8 bar. My reasoning (WAG) was that the bar would help dampen the vibration a little better.

 

[az_gila]

From the manufacturer

Did you use a straight flat 1/8 bar, or did you chop down one side of an angle as in the picture I posted?

I used 1/8 bar. My reasoning (WAG) was that the bar would help dampen the vibration a little better.

Clint at Vetterman just returned my call... he's working over the holiday...

He still recommends the approach pictured and says that the exhaust attachment to the motor mount frame does work.

He said to use a 1/8 bar 1 inch wide with 4 to 5 inches of "overhang" at the mounting point.

After futzing with the rubber hose/SS tube stuff for way over a day trying to get all parts to remain in a desired position with the correct tweaked angle and twist at each end, this approach will be a breeze.

I even have all the parts needed on hand, so no Spruce orders with a holiday delay.

 

[flightlogic]

Gill, whenever you have that cowl down.... squirt some mouse milk on the ball joints.
The hanger is a good idea. I have been struggling with a "re-hang" of Vetterman and used some very pretty blue silicone tubing. It turned out to be very poor choice... it stretches out and all the clearances are screwed up.
Thanks for the updates and feedback from Vetterman.
Lots of us can benefit from your posts !!!!!!! Happy T day.

 

[grubbat]

Thanks Gill

Thanks Gill. I've been wrestling with a Robinson Oil Cooler installation on the firewall on my -9 all week to no avail so this is will be a refreshing change.
cj

 

[cougar8]

Alternative exhaust mount slomo video

I uploaded to YouTube a slow motion video of the startup of my RV8 (O-360-A4A with Vetterman exhaust using their 'alternative' mount with 'my' added extension) focusing on the movement of the tailpipes. The video shows that the engine rocks back and forth while the tail pipes rock fore and aft. There is slight movement or twist of the aluminum bar (firewall engine mount attach point) but most movement is at the ball joint and at the tailpipe ends. In short the tail pipes teeter-totter (seesaw) at the bracket. I would guesstimate +- 1/2 to 3/4 inch.

I noticed no side to side movement of the pipes. The aluminum 'bar' (1/8" x 1" x 6") attached to lower engine mount brace moves (or twists) slightly. It appears the Adel clamps are absorbing most of this.

Regardless of what mounting method used, keeping the ball joint flexible using "mouse milk or suitable anti seize" is key. I am thinking a little on the tailpipe bracket as well.

BTW, my engine shakes more on startup than shutdown...at least in the video I took.

 

[bret]

Nice vid, was this the exhaust before the ball socket type, looks like the spring clamp is taking up some movement also...looks good, I'll be hanging my pipes like this also. Thanks for the vid!

 

[brad walton]

I used extra cutoff from the crankcase breather supplied in the fwf kit and some of what came with the Vetterman exhaust. 325 hours working great. Bolted right through the tubing and no apparent tearing or scorching.