Cost of doing business
rjcthree said:
I spent a half hour searching, and came up short. I'm looking at a engine and need to know, or get a feel for, how well it will match up with the RV-9A cowl/mount/gear etc. I know many of the IO-320's - especially back breathers, won't go on an -A. What about a O-320-H2AD (160hp FP from a skyhawk)? Any users, what mods required?
Edit later: I have seen a couple of things about the H2A not fitting due to the forward mounted fuel pump - maybe requiring a cowling mod for clearance? Then I stumble across installation details in the knowledge base about an H2AD in a RV-8 - great write up, no mention of interference, bu tit's also an -8 cowl, not a 9A. Argh!
Anyone have a link to lycoming SB's and AD's cross referenced to engine model? I spent an hour on the lyc website, they really want you to buy the CD's of all docs.
RIck 90432 working wings, QB fuse 2 mo from order date.
Good questions. I am guessing you are on the hunt for engines.
When you get a lead on an engine, call Van or post here to confirm. There are some basic ubiquitous models of (I)O320s that will fit well and some work with a little work and some not suitable (without major modifications). Than there is narrow deck/wide deck, Conical mount/Dynafocal mount, but the latter ones are more desirable. Both will work fine.
The H2AD is a whole subject unto itself, which I see you found some info. Please search the archives some more. There are also several builder sites with H2AD's on RV6's and RV7's which should be close to the -9A.
The H2AD has a checkered past with AD and cam problems but that is also well documented. There are special oil additives and a "T" mod that improves the cam issue. Is it worth it? You decide. There are lots of RV's with H2AD's, and you can get them cheaper. Keep in mind they are high compression engines and need 100LL, always.
Lycoming does want you to buy the CD and all the S.I.'s , S.B.'s and manual Revisions, and you need them to do a proper job. They do have a select few of the more popular ones on their web site (under publications), but its just a scratch on the surface. If you are rebuilding an engine you need to pay the $300 bucks (or what ever?) to get all the manuals and CD updates. Unless you can borrow or view someone else's data its NEEDED.
Lycoming does NOT do AD's or recalls, that is a FAA thing. Of course the SI/SB and document revisions may reflect an old AD. In fact a AD may refrence a SI or SB. You will need to search AD's on the FAA/Gov web site. There are a slug of old ones that affect many items like oil pumps or crank corrosion inspections, which are common knowledge to more obscure ones. Depending on how old your engine is and the engine's records, you may have a little challenge figuring out what is what. (That is why good log books are a good thing.)
It is not as bad as it seems at first. Also when you send out parts for overhaul, crank, rods, case, gears and so on, the 'repair station' knows what is going on. When you by your parts you need to have some help. You need the parts manual. I also recommend Sacramento Skyranch Engineering manual (google).
If you are going for your own rebuild, the data is the cost of doing business and really not that much when it cost less than the cost of a exhaust valve or two.
Also SI's/SB's go back decades and are still current, so you will need to sit down read a lot to get caught up. Its not a big deal. I did it with my O360A1A, but I also has a A&P/AI to help be go through it. It is really simple when you get down to the nuts and bolts.
Than there are the SI/SB/AD on accessories like Carbs or Magnetos. Usually people just send them out. Accessory overhaul (carb/mag) together is going to cost over $2000. This is why they shops get the BIG BUCKS!
The new parts and component overhaul will cost $5000-$8000? With the accessories plan on $10,000 total for a do-it-yourself overhaul. (Lesson don't pay too much for a core) I guess an engine shops will charge another $2000-$3000 for labor and overhead. Just sending out the whole engine is an option? A plus is warentty when you send it out.
I recall I had OH quotes of about $14,000 for a O360A1A. I had about $10,000 into it not including the ignition/mags. I only had $2000 into my core so I came out pretty good. If I was doing it today I'd just skip it and buy a new engine from Mattituck. On the other hand, good reasonably priced cores have dried up. People want $5,000 for a core. Too much in my opinion.
A new engine is looking better is it not? If buying new from Van or Mattituck you will be fine from a fit stand point.
