FlyingArcher

FlyingArcher

Well Known Member
Hello,

I was wondering if someone has already tried to use this kind of generic engine stand to hold a Lycoming (more precisely an O-320)?
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They're sold quite cheap on eBay and I'm tempted to give them a try, but I'd really would appreciate if someone would share their (good or bad) experience with that kind of tool.

Many thanks
 
The biggest problem with this type of stand is that it does not allow very good access to the back of the engine. This is where most all work is done on aircraft engines. The more practical stand that is normally used for aircraft engines is to mount the engine vertically on the crankshaft flange. This way you have access to the entire engine.
 
Chop off the top and weld it to the side of the stand so the attachment is facing up. Mount your lycoming facing down. Works well!

Bruce
 
Lycoming doesn't recommend it because the flywheel wasn't designed for the stresses of all that weight hanging out there. Doesn't mean it won't work, they just don't recommend it because they haven't done the analysis.
 
Am I missing something?

RScott said:
Lycoming doesn't recommend it because the flywheel wasn't designed for the stresses of all that weight hanging out there. Doesn't mean it won't work, they just don't recommend it because they haven't done the analysis.
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Richard. I don't understand your statement. The flywheel is never attached to an engine stand. When installed vertically on a typical aircraft engine stand, the flywheel isn't even on the engine. The engine is mounted to the stand via the prop flange.
 
Stand it on the nose

I have not tried using a conventional automotive style engine stand. For the past two weeks I have been assembling my engine for an hour or two after dinner each night. You need to be able to rotate it on the crank. Also, Mel is right; access to the rear is big deal. The stand I purchased was about $210, but well worth it. I occasionally see them sell on Ebay for almost the cost of a new one. Use it, then sell it.

 
Mel,

I should have said prop flange.

And Lycoming had no problem mounting the engine vertically; they just didn't like the idea of mounting it horizontally.
 
OK. I misunderstood. I agree it should not be mounted horizontally by the flange. It should only be mounted vertically.
 
How Lycoming said they build them

At OSH I attended the Lycoming seminars on engine disassembly and assembly. They were excellent. I was suprised to learn that the factory build their engines horizontally and vertically. They first assemble the crank and rods on a vertical stand, but then drop it into the case which is horizontal in a fixture. After the case is together, they put it back on the vertical stand for the cylinders and back end parts.

That was how they did it as OSH also - they used a regular vertical engine stand like the one in the post above, but they assembled the case in a simple wood fixture on a bench horizontally.

I highly recommend the free seminars - incredibly knowledgable presentors.
 
Thank you!

Thank you all for your answers.

I think I'll order the vertical engine overhaul stand that ACS sells. My only concern is shipping cost to Europe :mad:

I've searched locally for someone who would sell them, to no avail.

I'm almost done with the Healey now, so I'm preparing the shop for the RV-9A experience :D
My used O-320 is currently stored on an old tyre and I'd like to place it on a more convenient stand.

Cheers and thanks again
 
home made engine stand

Considering the cost to ship to Europe you might think about making one. I took a 1/2 inch thick piece of plate and drilled holes for the prop bolts to go into and cut a larger hole in the center for the prop locator to pass through then welded some legs on it. I spent a couple of hours building mine and any machine shop could duplicate my efforts easily.
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Easy to modify auto stand

I took a $30 harbor freight stand (on sale for $20) and modified it to hold the engine vertically. On the unmodified auto stand, cut the vertical member about 4" from the top at a 45 degree angle. The member in my case was a rectangular cross-section tube. Rotate the cut portion 90 degrees and reweld it to the tube. This results in a 90 degree bend at the weld joint, and the motor mount, which was vertical, is now a horizontal plate and allows construction of the engine in the typical vertical fashion. All for $20 from a stand you can get locally anywhere.

I detailed the stand construction in an earlier post on assembling an ECI O-360 kit engine.

I actually bought two of the stands and used the second one as shown in one of the above posts (with the steel pipe extensions) to store the engine until ready to install. This allowed filling the engine with oil and rotating it on the stand whenever I felt the urge to send oil on all of the surfaces. The castering wheels make it easy to move around in the garage and keep it out of the way!
 
Consider the Harbor Freight $99. Hoist

Check out HF - I bought one for $99 - worked perfect. Can always sell it in the end!
 
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