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yankee-flyer

Well Known Member
I know there are some threads on this but I have a couple of questions before starting.

1) It looks like from the Rotax Bulletin that we disconnect the oil "In" line, cap the tank there, and place the hose in a container on the floor. There's absolutely no way to get that hose down to the floor, so I assume that we simply add a piece of hose?? What size fits?

2) Anybody know where in that blasted CD engine manual the purge process can be found-- or where else?

3) Looks like a two-person operation-- one to sit in the bird and watch the pressure on the Dynon and one to spin the prop. A third to watch the oil level might be good?

4) With plugs out, 15 psi in the system, and spinning the prop, aren't we going to pump oil past the rings?

Thanks again for all the help from this group!!


Wayne 120241-- N143 WM someday!1
 
yankee-flyer said:
I know there are some threads on this but I have a couple of questions before starting.

1) It looks like from the Rotax Bulletin that we disconnect the oil "In" line, cap the tank there, and place the hose in a container on the floor. There's absolutely no way to get that hose down to the floor, so I assume that we simply add a piece of hose?? What size fits?

2) Anybody know where in that blasted CD engine manual the purge process can be found-- or where else?

3) Looks like a two-person operation-- one to sit in the bird and watch the pressure on the Dynon and one to spin the prop. A third to watch the oil level might be good?

4) With plugs out, 15 psi in the system, and spinning the prop, aren't we going to pump oil past the rings?

Thanks again for all the help from this group!!


Wayne 120241-- N143 WM someday!1
Click to expand...

Hey Wayne,
The Service Bulletin is SI-912-018. My engine documents included a paper copy of the bulletin. Knowing the number, you could also download it from http://www.rotax-owner.com/

The SB explains in detail how to do the purge.

I did it by myself. If you are working by yourself and turning the prop, the oil system is tight and holds pressure so you can look at the Dynon before it bleeds down.

I don't think the Rotax would lets any oil get by the rings.

Tony
 
Ideal 912 Installation Tips and Tricks by Phil Lockwood

Wayne,
Start with 3.5 quarts of oil in the tank. You can add more later if needed.
Read the last page of this article by Phil Lockwood about putting oil into the engine for the first time: http://www.sportpilot.org/magazine/feature/2005%20-%2009%20September%20-%20Tips%20and%20Tricks%20for%20the%20Ideal%20912%20Installation,%20Part%202.pdf
I followed that procedure and it worked for me. About extending the oil return line to the floor, I jammed some clear tubing into the hose. But no oil ever came out. That concerned me because I was not sure that the engine was full of oil, even though more than 30 pounds of oil pressure showed on the Dynon.
I had the bottom spark plugs out and no oil ever came out, so oil blowing past the rings is not a problem. I put the plugs back in and turned the prop a few times and the oil tank gurgled. I still want to take the rocker covers off to check for lifter clearance.
Joe
 
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