Cfrisella

Well Known Member
Is it just mine or do painted engines seem to chip and scratch really easy? Any painted bolt or nut can be scraped with a finger tip. Not very durable. I see why touch up paint comes with.
 
It's not just you

I have a new Lycoming from Van's and the paint is chipping easily, too. I picked up a can of Lycoming grey spray paint, so when I am done with the installation, I intend to touch up the paint and make it look pretty for the first flight. I am anxious to see how long it stays looking good, though.
enginerightsidewithegtl.jpg
 
PAINT

The rocker covers appear to be Cadmium plated under the paint. All of the hardware is likely cad plated. Paint does not adhere well to cad plate. You could remove the rocker covers and wash the paint off with laquer thinner or acetone. I think at least a few of the high end engine shops paint the individual pieces before assembly and leave the cad plate parts unpainted. the cylinder hold down nuts are an exception. They have some kind of finish on them but it is not cad and they tend to rust unless they are painted. Imron works well for painting engine parts.
 
I received an ECI kit and the case is unpainted. Anyone have any recommendations for paint? Any thoughts on painting it with color? I am thinking yellow, will I regret that?
 
Yellow :)

Tony

My engine is due from ECI in about 6 weeks. I'm thinking of yellow also. An engine builder sent me a couple of pictures he did for an RV that was painted yellow. Nice looking. When you choose the paint brand, let us know.

Thanks
 
Prep, prep, prep

I painted my engine when it was rebuilt nine years ago. The Plasticote engine enamel (spray cans) has held up very well with no cracking or peeling.

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Prior to applying the paint, the case had just been returned from overhaul so had a new, clean application of alodine or whatever the overhaulers use. Having a very clean surface is the key to a paint job that will last for years.
 
Tony

My engine is due from ECI in about 6 weeks. I'm thinking of yellow also. An engine builder sent me a couple of pictures he did for an RV that was painted yellow. Nice looking. When you choose the paint brand, let us know.

Thanks


I will let you know what I end up using. I like the Plasitcote idea. I don't have any spray equipment so using a spray can is ++.

I am still waiting for my ECI tappets. I am at 14 weeks and counting.
 
I painted my engine when it was rebuilt nine years ago. The Plasticote engine enamel (spray cans) has held up very well with no cracking or peeling.

Prior to applying the paint, the case had just been returned from overhaul so had a new, clean application of alodine or whatever the overhaulers use. Having a very clean surface is the key to a paint job that will last for years.

The engine looks alodined and is pretty much prepped for paint (less masking). I like the Plasticote idea, any downside?
 
In the ECi engine I built, I used the high temp engine paint spray cans from the Walmart Aviation isle, also labeled as Ford red. After 40 hrs still looks like new- no flaking or loss of adhesion. I think the label was Duron.
 
I vote Yellow.;) but don't know what kind was used. Seemed durable until I started fitting the baffles and scratched it off in a few spots.

RV-7build344.jpg
 
I can't say for an aircraft engine, but the Duplicolor high-temp engine (500 degree) paint from the autoparts store works very well. After it has heat-cycled it is tough as nails. I have painted many motory cycle engines and parts with the stuff. I have NEVER had it peal or come off a properly cleaned/prepped surface. If you are looking for a rattle-can solution, it is a sound product. The VHT brand of engine and caliper paint is great stuff also.

As an example: back when I was in A&P school we made many sheet-metal part out of aluminum. one was an inspection hole and cover from .032 2024-T3. For fun I painted it with Duplicolor red engine paint (I had some around), I let it air-dry. I later decided to repaint a different color so I bead-blasted it clean (this wasn't going on an airplane). I then painted it with Duplicolor blue engine paint and baked it in the oven for 10 minutes at 170 degrees. Later, I decided to blast it clean again. I COULD NOT remove the paint with the bead blaster. I damaged the aluminum in an attempt to remove the paint, it is that tough once heat cured. However, it can be removed with tailstrip or a hot-dip if you need to take it off.
 
I ordered the Plasti-kote paint. AirplaneZone had rustoleum engine paint. Probably would have worked the same for a couple bucks less.
 
Used zinc chromate as per Lycoming overhaul manual, baked for 1 hour at ~220*, sprayed with three thin coats gold Napa high temp paint (rattle can) with two coats clear dry 24 hrs bake again for minimum two hrs ~180". Be sure to air out the house completely before the better half gets home.

Leaves a very tough non chipping coating. Which ever way you go don't allow paint on the seats for any nuts or bolts.

Yeah, not sure I wanna invade my wife's kitchen with an engine. We have a pretty simple agreement. What happens in the garage, stays in the garage.
 
Engine Paint

Bombardier paints all of the Jet Ski engine's with BASF Limco 3HS single stage Urethane paint....Seams to hold up very good. Lots of heat in that small engine compartment....

Rich Denton