I

idleup

Well Known Member
I am looking at engines. Can anyone tell me what is better and why on the following items for an IO-360:

1. The SilverHawk or the AFP fuel systems? Everything I have researched tells me the AFP is more popular... it is more expensive... but what are you getting that is better than the silverhawk?

2. I think I have determined that I would rather have one Lightspeed Plasma II and one magneto instead of Duals or the LASAR system. So my question is should I get the crank or the hall effect sensor for it? The hall is double the price ($1,212 at Superior) from the crank... is it that much better?

Thanks.
- Matt
 
buy the ei from vans

when i bought my eng vans was a good bit cheaper than superior. that was last august. the hall effect seems like a better option as its neatly packaged. however the crank mounted ones do very well. i just dont like electronics in the open on a card. i bought my eng. from superior and the ei was more than vans and they kept a mag. so i just ordered two mags. and had the case drilled for the ei card if i decide to go that route i can. then i'll have a spare mag.
 
When you say you had the case drilled is that for the crank sensor?

What if you got the two mags and then bought the EI with hall effect sensor? is there any modification that you would want them to make?
 
FWIW here's my logic-path for this very question.

idleup said:
I am looking at engines. Can anyone tell me what is better and why on the following items for an IO-360:

1. The SilverHawk or the AFP fuel systems? Everything I have researched tells me the AFP is more popular... it is more expensive... but what are you getting that is better than the silverhawk?

I asked Superior their opinion on this while I was setting up my builder's school and ordering my engine. They sell the AFP, for more money (silverhawk $0), but suggested I stay with silverhawk. Superior said it's been around "forever", works great, and they see no difference when they dyno the engines - and they dyno all of them built there by students or their techs.

2. I think I have determined that I would rather have one Lightspeed Plasma II and one magneto instead of Duals or the LASAR system. So my question is should I get the crank or the hall effect sensor for it? The hall is double the price ($1,212 at Superior) from the crank... is it that much better?

Again, I asked Superior's opinion and they recommended the Crank Sensor. In the hundreds of engines they've produced, Superior said they've never had a crank sensor board fail, and again, see no differrence from the Hall Effect in performance. The primary reason they sell the Hall Effect is because some people prefer this sensing to be internal, instead of right behind the flywheel.

As far as the ignition, I chose one mag, one Lightspeed III - but after reading chapter 17 in Bob Knuckolls 'The Aeroelectric Connection' and talking with the techs while I was building my engine, I'd go dual Lightspeed III's with dual batteries/dual alternator. But, I have an all glass, all electric panel.

Thanks.
- Matt
Click to expand...
 
Do you know what kind of performance increase you get over over one mag, one EI if you go dual EI?
 
I now run dual lightspeeds

and think they are great, however... I first ran with one LSI for over a year and then switched over to dual LSI once I had the confidence in all the aircraft systems to make the switch. I run single battery with B&C 40 amp and 8 amp back up alternators. The engine definately runs smoother with the dual LSI's. I had some trouble with the hall effect modules leaking oil so I switched to the flywheel pick up. The only thing I would do different is to install the dual flywheel pick up and wiring to start with so switching to duals at the later date would then be a no brainer.

Walt RV7 O360 500+hrs
 
hall effect

doesnt require any mod but if you want to use the mag pad to drive something else. Alt. ,maybe then you need crank mounted trigger. which requires minor mod to the case. i had mine drilled in case i wanted to modify later. or for resaleability. i think at this point i prefer two mags.
 
Last edited:
Warp Factor...Electroair!

Despite all the above, Lightspeed isn't the only EI out there. Personally, I like the most bang for the buck and my RV4 budget back in 95' was to stay under 25K, total. That said. I have been running a custom built Airboat (no lycoming parts, all aftermarket) 0-320 and a Rose Electroair ignition on my RV4 for 10 years/1500 hours. The Electroair Ignition I believe is superior to Klaus's LS Plasma systems and costs slightly less. You can run dual systems as discussed above with a single Odessey PC925 battery which has a 50 minute life with 25 amp draw and weighs the same as a concorde 25RG. The Rose system draws .87 amps. I run a Bendix High altitude Mag (hotter spark) and a EI sensor in the other mag hole. Jeff had a mag hole sensor way before the "hall effect" module ever existed. My HR2 has the identical setup.
The best fuel injector in my humble opinion is Airflow Performance. I have flown the AP on an RV4 and many Bendix systems on other RV's. The silver hawk is a Bendix knock-off (but a good one) but costs a bit more. Ellison's TBI work but have mixed reviews. BTW, there's nothing wrong with a carb, they work great!
All of the RV's were designed to fly on 150-160HP and having flown all of them(except the 12), the best flying ones are the light ones. Before you dump a ton of cash on an IO-360 which weighs 75# more than a stock 0-360, look at other options. One is to build up an IO-360 parallel valve with 9.4:1 LyCon pistons and flowed cyllinders. The other is to build an 0-320 with the same pistons, flowed and balanced and alot lighter.
Hang a composite prop. an MGL Enigma EFIS and voila, a light less expensive RV...
www.electroair.net

My 2 cents...

Rob Ray
RV4 (built when dinosaurs roamed taxiways)
HR2 (almost better than sex and faster..)
F16 on weekends (top of the list of cool)
 
Last edited:
I have dual LSE II - one sensed of the crank sensor and one off of the hall effect; that way there is one less single point of failure. Been very happy with that combination, but be prepared to design a dual battery electrical system. The process of drilling the case for the crank sensor is pretty straightforward if you end up doing it yourself. You might want to get another pair of eyes with you when you do it as it is a one-shot deal.

I have the IO360-M1B from Vans and am very happy with it.

Jon Weiswasser
RV-8
 
You can drill the case with the crank installed, but you need to remove one of the prop-bolt bushings in order to do it. Not a problem and not hard to put back either. Whole job takes about 1.5-2h.

Jon
 
You must log in or register to reply here.