I'm thinking about building a simple engine dehydrator. Ambient air in AZ is very low in humidity, so I don't plan to use dessicant. My goal is simply to provide air exchanges within the case for a couple of hours after flying to get rid of water formed by combustion. I've seen a thread on these, designs, etc..., but have a couple of (hopefully) simple questions.
1) The designs that I've looked at all seem to have the air entering via the case vent, and exiting via the oil filler. I have an air-oil separator (yeah, I probably wouldn't do that if I were starting over), that eventually sends air overboard via a piece of scat hose. Connecting input air to that would not be quick and convenient. To the question, is there some reason not to pump the air in via the filler tube and let is exhaust through the scat hose?
2) Assuming the answer to (1) is no, I'm also interested in thoughts on how to secure the input line. My dipstick is not threaded, but rather held in place by an o-ring. A drilled rubber stopper would be easy, but I don't know whether it would reliably stay in place. Perhaps less of an issue if I extended the PE tubing several inches into the filler neck. Purchasing and modifying a second dipstick, e.g. tapping it to secure a barbed connector, would also be an obvious choice, but last I looked dipsticks were running between $100 and $300 on the used market, which seems a little excessive for what I'm trying to accomplish.
Thanks in advance.
1) The designs that I've looked at all seem to have the air entering via the case vent, and exiting via the oil filler. I have an air-oil separator (yeah, I probably wouldn't do that if I were starting over), that eventually sends air overboard via a piece of scat hose. Connecting input air to that would not be quick and convenient. To the question, is there some reason not to pump the air in via the filler tube and let is exhaust through the scat hose?
2) Assuming the answer to (1) is no, I'm also interested in thoughts on how to secure the input line. My dipstick is not threaded, but rather held in place by an o-ring. A drilled rubber stopper would be easy, but I don't know whether it would reliably stay in place. Perhaps less of an issue if I extended the PE tubing several inches into the filler neck. Purchasing and modifying a second dipstick, e.g. tapping it to secure a barbed connector, would also be an obvious choice, but last I looked dipsticks were running between $100 and $300 on the used market, which seems a little excessive for what I'm trying to accomplish.
Thanks in advance.