Davepar

Davepar

Well Known Member
I've been doing some research on engine baffling and found a bunch of great pictures that have been helpful. Everybody seems to do little things slightly differently, especially in the area of the cowl inlets and around the prop governor line. And of course there are lots of engine variants.

Dan's site (IO-360, angle valve, horz induction, custom intake):
http://www.rvproject.com/construction_log.html#cowling

Walter's site (IO-360, parallel valve, horz induction, custom intake):
http://www.rv7-a.com/baffling.htm

Phil's site (IO-360, parallel valve, vert induction):
http://www.myrv7.com/baffles.php

Vern's site (IO-320, vert induction):
http://www3.telus.net/aviation/flying/RV-9A/photos/Firewall_fwd/Firewall_fwd_photos.html

Ren? and friends (IO-360, parallel valve, horz induction, FADEC):
http://websites.expercraft.com/PHVII/index.php?q=log_list&c=58

Carl's (IO-360, parallel valve, vert induction, FADEC, plenum):
http://www.rvproject.gen.nz/baffles.html

Please post if you find others.

Dave

(added corrections from Carl)
 
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Baffling is a proper name for them

Out off all the aircraft names and such this one matches best to the true name for these things..
a puzzle at best..

Just wanted to say thanks for starting this tread,
I just (almost) completed the cowling fit, and this is my next step, spent most of today making that bracket that fills the void for the nose wheel, not much on the plans for those sizes of parts I had to make, .. turned out ok inspite of the rv9a page 45 plans.. couldn't find anything online to double check :)

just wanted to say thanks..

Danny..
 
Thanks for the extra picture links. They look great. I'm especially impressed/amazed at the guys that do the plenums.

godspeed said:
...spent most of today making that bracket that fills the void for the nose wheel, not much on the plans for those sizes of parts I had to make...
Click to expand...

Sounds like the perfect warm-up for the baffles. :)

The best help I've had on the baffles is just looking at how others have done them. As you start to work on each new section or if you run into a confusing area, go back and look at the pictures again.

More tips:
- The baffles for the 200hp are slightly different than the 180hp.
- The intake filter/snorkel for the horizontal/forward-facing induction imposes some special requirements on the front left baffle floor. Read the instructions for the snorkel and do some trial fitting before cutting the left baffle floor.
 
Lycoming O-320-H2AD Baffles

Here is a link to some pictures of my scratch-built O-320-H2AD baffles...

http://www.eaa582.org/gallery/thumbnails.php?album=19
(drill down to about the 4th page).

The H2AD provided its own special challenges and I mounted my oil cooler on the right rear, behind #3 cylinder partly because my oil lines are on the right side of the oil filter housing, and to provide clear routing for the fuel lines going to the forward mounted fuel pump (left front).

I've had no problems with high temps even when flying in 95* OAT. I do have to lower the nose and increase the airspeed on hot-day extended climb-outs to keep #3 under 425* (my EIS4000 warning setting), basically I just transition to cruise-climb a little sooner (2,000 agl or so).

I'm now past 100 hours with no cracks or other problems. :)
 
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