[llavalle]

Well, milestone weekend for me.

I completed the trim tab on my left elevator, that means the empennage is completed for now (some rivets left out for pre-close inspection here in Canada)

If anyone is interested, I counted the rivets and I'm at 2171. Add the missing ones for the inspection to that and you realize tha the emp has a lot of rivets for its size!

Good news from Van's : my wings(slow build) were loaded in the truck on friday! Yay. ETA is next tuesday, May 5th. I can't wait to get my hand on those 2 crates.

 

[charger81]

How many hours?

Philippe.....how many hours to complete? I'm just trying to get an idea of how much time per major component. I was estimating about 175 - 200 hours for the Empennage.

 

[CJK]

I'm jealous! I won't be starting my empennage until June 8!

Congrats on the milestone!!

-- Chris

 

[llavalle]

Philippe.....how many hours to complete? I'm just trying to get an idea of how much time per major component. I was estimating about 175 - 200 hours for the Empennage.

Right now I'm at 136 hours.

But you must realize that the following work still need to be done :
1-Install the HS rear spar (max 2-3h)
2-Install the VS rear spar (max 2h)
3-Close the trailing edge of the rudder and finish riveting the left side of the skin (time unknown... proseal needed, probably 4h or more). The wedge is already cut, drilled and C/S.
4-Close the trailing edge of both elevators and finish riveting the top side of the skin on both (same status as the rudder, proseal needed, probably 4-5h)
5-Attach the trim tab
6-Drill the elevator horns

I also had a 2nd pair of hand during the HS and the VS... that why then went fast.

Without the help and with everything to do, I'd guess around 160h. I'm priming everything. If you don't prime, you'll save a couple of hours. If you aluprep + alodine + prime, add a couples

 

[SmittysRV]

That's great! I know you are excited!! (I was...)

 

[redwoodcstrvr]

Congratulations!

A questions about the elevator trim tab. I'm in the process of completing my tailfeathers, but I'm having a problem with the trim tab. I am on the second skin after finding that I could not make the bends using Van's wood blocks after installing the trim control horns. I was also not happy with the bends made at the other end. I have now completed the bends at both ends on the replacement skin,and then installed the trim horns which worked fine. However, once again I was not happy with one end, it did not finish with a perfect 90 degree angle. In talking with another builder he went to the extreme of cutting off the end tabs and fabricating end ribs and riveting those in place. Would appreciate any ideas anyone might have.
Thanks in advance!

 

[llavalle]

Following Smitty's advice (from his website), I riveted the horn after making the bend. One of the rivet was hard to reach but using the 4in no hole yoke with a small diameter long flush die I was able to squeeze it.

On the first side, I started the bend using my hands and a piece of hard wood. I completed the bend with my flush rivet set on the rivet gun (directly on the aluminum). The result was acceptable but not perfect

On the other side, I decided to use the wood block but slammed the rivet gun on the wood instead of directly on the aluminum. That gave better results.

They are not perfect but I'm ok with them.

Here are 2 shots of the completed bend

This is the first one. Bent using the rivet gun directly on the bend :

This is the second bend, using the wood block. As you can see, it looks better.

2 other pics :

 

[redwoodcstrvr]

Thanks

Thanks, that info helps. How did you dimple for the CS-4 rivets? It seems to me that you would have to drill and dimple before you bend, thus no match drill.

 

[llavalle]

No, you don't have to drill and dimple before you bend. I made the bends then I installed the spar. After the spar was riveted to the bottom and held by clecos on the top, I drilled. Be carefull, if you put too much pressure on the drill, you'll force the tab inward instead of making a hole.

After that, remove the clecos from the top of the spar/skin, debur and dimple. If you have a small diameter female dimple die, it's easier for the aft hole on the inboard side (the 3rd one) but since these are CS4-4, I did not have the required small die. Using the regular die worked for me but it was tight.