USCANAM

Well Known Member
I'm sure this idea has been documented before, but here it is again.
I know there are special tools for applying tie wraps, and they smooth off the cut ends from their scapel like sharpness, but I use the double tie wrap just about everywhere, and in tight places that I sure the applicator can not be used.
Lately have been doing wiring, and work behind the engine, and have been coming home from the hanger with my hands and arms looking like I've been attacked by rabid cats.
Today, while trying once again to try and trim off some of these sharp ends with a small pair of side cutters, I spotted a single edge razor blade sitting on top of the forward fuselage. This happened to be a new sharp one, and what a beautiful job of shearing off any protruding fragment of wrap when the blade was held up against the retaining portion of the wrap and moved in a cutting motion. End of the ties are smooth as a baby's bottom!!
I was able to reach very tight areas, like those areas where our hands gets locked into with the tie wraps barbs.
Hope this eliminates some pain!!
Jack
N99552
RV9A
 
Tie wraps (not)

Or, you could learn to lace the bundles using the waxed twine (originated with bellcore and is still in use today).

My brother and I used tie wraps to get the bundles positioned, then used the string to do a nice neat job of lacing the bundles permanently.

Then all tie wraps were removed.

I must confess, I added a few later as I put in new items, and we used them under the cowl as well.

I've never had a problem getting my "flush cuts" (as I call them) onto the cable ties. I have a nice small pair (about half the size of wire cutters) and they can reach into really tight places.

Just a data point.
 
Flush cut dykes

Buy yourself a good set of flush cut dykes, they go right up against the head of the ty-wrap and leave no sharp edges to cut yourself on. This is a must have tool for any wiring job. You can get some pretty nice ones from klein tools, snap-on etc.

My 0.02
 
Try your side cutters this way instead of cutting the tie wraps. Get them ready to cut all nice and flush but don't squeeze hard enough to cut. Then try to spin the tie wrap with the side cutters 360 degrees until it tears the tail off off flush. There will be no sharp edges after doing this. Basically the cheap tie wrap tools work this way so save the dollars and put them into your tank later.

Best,
 
Or, you could learn to lace the bundles using the waxed twine (originated with bellcore and is still in use today).

My brother and I used tie wraps to get the bundles positioned, then used the string to do a nice neat job of lacing the bundles permanently.

Just a data point.

Did you burn the knots with an old solder iron tip? That's what I was taught back in my assembly days. I still never liked the results. I am using ty-wraps on my plane. The wax was just too slippery and if you would tug on the wrap it would easily pull apart, even when burned/melted.
 
Lacing tape?

I use the identical waxed lacing tape that is widely used in military and commercal aircraft wiring bundles. I note that a recent wiring harness I purchased from Stein made use of it. Very professional. It is very light and easy to use ...with a bit of practice. AC-43 shows the proper knot which is a clove hitch followed by a square knot. Snip the tails to about 1/16" and you are done. There are some Boy Scout websites that show animations of knot tying that make learning the technique easier. Of course, you don't want to use lacing tape FWF but it serves very well behind the instrument panel and most other places.
 
Soldering Iron

I just give the cut edge a quick pass with the soldering iron, it leaves them nice and smooth.
 
I've used the razor blae trick myself, when I can't get my fancy squeezer tool into an area - works great for me! I'm thinking of buying a spool of lacing cord from Stein when we re-do Louise's panel, just to see if I can resurrect my knot-tieing technique I was taught many, many years ago.....

Paul
 
Aeroelectric Bob's pictures...

I've used the razor blae trick myself, when I can't get my fancy squeezer tool into an area - works great for me! I'm thinking of buying a spool of lacing cord from Stein when we re-do Louise's panel, just to see if I can resurrect my knot-tieing technique I was taught many, many years ago.....

Paul

Paul... I use the pretty pictures on Aeroelectric Bob's web site....:)

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/cable_lace/cable_lace.html

Another hint from an old RV List posting...

When you are making up your wiring bundles, use a short (about 1 inch or less) piece of spiral wrap every few inches to hold the wires parallel and in place. Remove them one at a time when you start the actual lacing. Simple and effective.

gil A - off to rivet a RV-8 Leading edge and dimple a RV-6A tank
 
Mil spec

I know it has been said but I use ties like no other on military applications and the Technical orders say I cannot leave sharp of protruding edges....what do I use???
A new sharp razor blade.

You can cut it as flush as can be and not harm the tightness of connection by melting the plastic.

We have the tool you mention in our tool kits but they are rarely used. My equipment is inspected for quality control all the time and I have had zero defects for over a year.

Warning!!! Be very careful with the blades....and don't knick any lines!

V/r
-SD
 
I bought a used Panduit gun off of ebay for 25$. I used it installing wire ties all over the airplane...with its long nose able to reach into a tight spot (it's only the diameter of your finger) it worked ALMOST everywhere except (literally) for a couple of wire ties. The tension is fully adjustable, so it does nice quality work and it's quick. It's what they use at Boeing, in fact mine has a Boeing part serial number on it...
 
Grinder

An old A&P once tols me to take a small side cutting plier and either belt sand or grind the tapered outside edge away until it's smooth. This way there is no bevel left on the jaw and it'll cut tie wraps flush.

Pierre