From the looks of the picture, taking off the inboard protruding piece would take off a lot of weight, when you've already found it to be light. Also by doing this, the outboard rounded portion will not fit nicely into the fiberglass tip. It looks like you have already dimpled/countersunk the skin and weight, so trying to reposition and re-drill would be tough. Short of replacing the parts, I might try marking the proper hole location on the weight, then drilling it alone (carefully, in the same orientation as you originally drilled, so that the bolt will align all the way through) then countersink it again. If you're lucky it will line up properly and you will only be light by the amount of material that was drilled out. Anyone else have any ideas? Good luck.

Brad
 
I would recommend you just wait to worry about this. Until you get the HS on the fuselage, and until you get your trim motor or cable in, you don't really know how much you will need to take off the weights. You might find out that you have more options once you get to the mounting stage. Good luck.
 
Take the lead fillings and melt them and pour them back into the holes and redrill.

After painting the elevators, I ended up adding all the lead back, that I previously drilled out. Did the melt and pour method with some pins drilled at angles to anchor everything.

L.Adamson --- RV6A
 
After painting the elevators, I ended up adding all the lead back, that I previously drilled out. Did the melt and pour method with some pins drilled at angles to anchor everything.

You might not even need to do this - on my 7, the left elevator lead needed a fair sized chunk trimmed off once I got to balancing.
 
Same mistake

Called Van's and threy said melting shavings and pouring into the hole was ok. It worked like a charm. You can see what I did on my log site, the link is in my signature block. I used a cheap tin cup and my backpacking stove.

Cheers
Mike