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CDBridgesRV7A

Active Member
Good Day Folks,

Does the edge forming tool sold at Cleveland Tools do the exact same thing as the edge rolling tool offered by Avery Tools and Aircraft Spruce? Are they in fact one and the same, just different method of utilizing them (vice grip vs. no vice grip)?

Thanks

Chris
 
That is correct. I have both and have found the Avery tool is a bit easier to use for me.
 
I have the vise grip type, it took me quite a bit of practice to get the hang of the darned thing, I thought the "twin roller" type would be easier to use.
 
I have both types and much prefer the vise grip version. Once it is set up to the right squeezing force it is quick and easy to use. Just go slow and don't let it veer off. A little squeeze is all you need to get a mild shadow of a crease.
 
I have both types, and in my own personal opintion they each have their unique purpose... the vise grip type is for making a perfect formed edge, and the other kind is for making scrap aluminum. :)

mcb
 
Chris, "Breaking the edge" is one of the real booby-traps in RV building. It needs to be done but is very easily over-done. (Don't ask how I know.)

On my second build I just hacksawed 3 different depths into a piece of hardwood and starting with the deepest, progressively worked to the shallowest putting a very slight "break" on the edge so it wouldn't pooch out when riveted. You can use a straight-edge and a flashlight to judge this. What you want to avoid is the "line" from a single pass through one of the commercial tools. Many of the RV's you see will have the lines visible.

Jim
RV6A
RV12
 
The tools work in different ways. Our tool (vise grip w/stainless rollers) has the angles build into the rollers to allow about a 14deg. bend. That is overkill for most applications. The edge distance is maintained by the flange on the rollers and measures 0.200" from the bend. The other tools (with rollers) keep the edge distance consistant by the location of rollers, but the angle is held manually by rotating the tool on two different axis. Keeping that angle consistent without stretching the metal is more difficult. However with these tools you can go around radius' where with our vise grip tool you can only do straight lines.


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But go slow!

One of the two stainless steel rollers on the vice grip style has a raised lip that keeps the rollers flush against the skin's edge. You don't need to tighten the vice grip tension much to use the tool...but if you make it too loose, you'll jump that raised lip right up onto the skin and dig a pretty good elongated dent into the metal: :eek:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=ScrollF4&project=879&category=0&log=132367&row=2

I got some help from some experienced aviation sheet metal pros to stretch out and roll/pound the dent flat, then squeeze the area back to original shape and thickness (he owed me, and he made good). Everything matches up now, but if it didn't I would have simply bought a new skin.

Good luck!



N223JH said:
Chris, "Breaking the edge" is one of the real booby-traps in RV building. It needs to be done but is very easily over-done. (Don't ask how I know.)

On my second build I just hacksawed 3 different depths into a piece of hardwood and starting with the deepest, progressively worked to the shallowest putting a very slight "break" on the edge so it wouldn't pooch out when riveted. You can use a straight-edge and a flashlight to judge this. What you want to avoid is the "line" from a single pass through one of the commercial tools. Many of the RV's you see will have the lines visible.

Jim
RV6A
RV12
Click to expand...
 
What Matt said.

Once you get the feel of it, the vise-grip tool is almost like cheating, it works so well. You do practise using a new tool on scrap before going after the real parts, don't you? ;) And yes, I own both types.
 
WD-40 Helps

There is friction between the edge of the wheel and the edge of the piece being formed. I apply some wd-40 with a rag along the edge of the piece and this makes pulling the vice-grip tool much easier. I make sure the piece is clamped down and pull the tool with both hands, one on the grip and the other on the end of the bolt holding the wheel. Darned near done before I figured this out.

Glen Wilcox
 
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