[jcoloccia]

Okay...I've just about had it, and I know I must be missing something because this is taking way too long.

How does everyone else edge finish ribs and skins and things? There are so many nooks and crannies that I'm going out of my mind with little needle files etc. to put nice radiuses on all of the edges. Is this really nescessary, or does the edge just need to be relatively smooth. It literally takes me all day to just edge finish the parts.

I know others scream through this in an hour, so I'm either going way overboard, or I'm missing some obvious technique or tool that makes this all easier.

john <==== has a strange feeling this thread may end up in "neverending debates" before too long...lol

 

[Captain_John]

John, It is a relative thing as to what you consider good enough. My buddy Thermos asks me from time to time and calls it "calibrating" his feel. I agree.

My other buddy Wicked Stick has a great way of edge deburring. He uses (and now I do too) a sanding block for all the long, straight edges.

I usually zip the 2 sided V-groove debur tool along the edges prior to using the sanding block on them.

The wing skin deburring seems ENDLESS!

TIP: Debur the main ribs before fluting. You may have already thought of this, but it is for several obvious reasons that sometimes aren't so obvious when the parts are in a pile before you.

CJ

 

[L.Adamson]

Okay...How does everyone else edge finish ribs and skins and things? There are so many nooks and crannies that I'm going out of my mind with little needle files etc. to put nice radiuses on all of the edges. Is this really nescessary, or does the edge just need to be relatively smooth. It literally takes me all day to just edge finish the parts.

Cheap 90 degree "air" diegrinder with 2" scotchbrite pads (blue). These pads just quickly screw onto the 2" plastic arbor. Gets into the small spaces, is very fast, a puts a nice smooth edge on the material.

You can get pads at Harbor Freight, and I've cut down 3" pads from Sears.

I've used this tool, probably more than any other, since it's very portable, and does very smooth finish work. The blue pads are for finer finishes, and the rust colored pads for quick metal removal. I use blue most of the time.

L.Adamson

 

[flybill7]

I don't want to bum you out, but it doesn't get any better with the wings and fuselage. Basically, every edge of the hundreds of aluminum parts in the kits requires edge smoothing. My personal process has evolved to the following: I scrape the edge, run a file over it a couple of times, then sand it smooth with emery cloth. The circular file is used for the tight spots. The scotch-brite bench grinder wheel is nice when you can use it, but I don't have the opportunity to use it very much. I think others have saved time but using mini-scotch-brite wheels on die grinders. Yes, a significant portion of my project has been spent sanding aluminum. For me, it's just part of building an aluminum airplane.

 

[Ironflight]

You'll hate this....

Just buy a quick build!!

(Duck and cover, duck and cover..... )

Paul

 

[Rick S.]

Just another version of RV "therapy"

I lay the part on the bench and pass the fine side of vixen file to smooth it out. Only use light pressure and push it away from you, don't pull it back, push only. Follow this with a V-groove deburr tool. My last step is to use 150 grit sponge sanding blocks. Main thing is not to go crazy and file the heck outta the edge. Ken from Vans told me he puts his bench grinder on the ground and passes the skin over the Scotchbrite wheel while holding from above. This is just one of the mundane tasks related to building one of these things. Dremel makes a real cool 1" x 3/16" deburr wheel for the notches in the ribs and such. Remember too that jewlers files are precision tools as well, for small holes and notches. Bottom line..nuthins easy but the results are well worth it.

LOL....I just noticed your wings are in the box....lol...pull out ONE rib and take a look at that puppy...theres a bunch more than one in there too!!!

Rick S.
RV-10
40185
Finishing kit

 

[jcoloccia]

Makes me wish I could just throw them all in a rock tumbler, wait a couple of weeks, and poof...out pop perfectly polished ribs

 

[jcoloccia]

Okay...so I know I have to smooth all of the edges. I guess my real question is are you guys going into all the nooks and cranies and radiusing them too, or is this overkill? So far, I'm been going into everything and putting that nice radius on it...that's the super time consuming part. Just knocking down the edge and smoothing it so it's not drawing blood is a piece of cake

 

[vlittle]

I talked to Van's about the fiddly bits around the fijords on the wing rib tips. Gus says don't bother deburring them, but to lay the rib flat on its web and and sand the tip smooth on a drum sander to make sure the skins lay flat.

Some of the flanges on the tips will get thin, but this is better than having bumps under the skin. There are no rivets in this area anyway, so there should be minimal stresses.

Of course, I did both.... the fjords and the sanding flat, before I talked to Gus.

Vern Little

 

[Rick6a]

Debunking deburring

Okay...I've just about had it, and I know I must be missing something because this is taking way too long.............

John,

Yer right...tis taking too long! There are many tools and many ways to debur. Using this puppy or similiar, you should be able to debur a typical rib in something well short of a minute. One pass towards you and you are done. To round an edge or break sharp corners, I use a fine 2" sanding disc in a right angle die grinder if handy OR quickly blend and polish sharp corners and edges on a 6" scotchbrite wheel mounted to the bench grinder. In a pinch, here's an old sheet metal trick: holding a carbide reamer firmly in your hand, run one of its flutes against the edge of a part that needs deburring.....or for sharpening the blade on your pocket knife! In short....there are many ways to debur. Find a quick and easy way that works for you. Deburring need not be the tedious and time consuming chore you are presently experiencing.

Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"

 

[Thermos]

How do you eat an elephant?

...one bite at a time!

I hear you John, it's a lot of work. I just got my wing boxes riveted together and it took forever to debur all those wing ribs. I probably went overboard, which I am prone to do. Unfortunately, Section 5 of Vans' plans leaves you with the lingering fear that a less-than-perfect deburring job will lead to catastrophic failure at some point in the future. When you talk to Van's tech support folks you get a more realistic answer. I wish they'd put those realistic answers in Section 5.

One thing that might help is one of those little scotchbrite wheels on a Dremel tool. If you look online you can find 1" 7A Medium wheels on a Dremel-size mandrel, and also some cone-shaped scotchbrite tools that look like they'd work well for getting in those rib corners.

Hope this helps...

Dave

 

[Jekyll]

John:

Buck up buddy. Play some tunes or smoke a cigar - whatever makes you mellow. Deburring and dimpling are the prices we pay in order to hear the satisfying staccato of the rivet gun. Some good tips here so I won't add any technical methods. Deburring and dimpling are some of the non-technical and repetative tasks builders can share with friends, spouses or children (if so equiped).

Remember the goal is to remove sharp edges and burrs, not to create the crossection of a perfect half circle so don't go crazy with it.

Hey, it's usually better to err on the conservative side. I know a guy that built a 6A and didn't deburr a single hole or edge. You can see numerous places where he simply cut out a part with snips and riveted it to the airframe with the jagged, curled snip edges and all. Pulled rivets not through the underlying structure (rib or spar) and a host of other discrepancies that show a total lack of craftsmanship and understanding of safe aircraft construction techniques. (He hasn't yet found anyone willing to sign off his "steamer"). I'm sure he will eventually get it in the air, but I sure don't want to be around it, in it or UNDER IT!

I kringe at the thought of what he did to a prerfectly good aircraft kit.

Jekyll

 

[rv9aviator]

One tool I found that helped save time was a scitch brite wheel mounted on a 1/4 inch shank. They are sold at Wal-Mart in the paint section for about $8.00. I've gone through two of them on the empennage and wings. I put it in a small drill press. After you run across the edges with the V shaped deburring tool then go to the drill press and go all over the part with the scotchbrite wheel. The ones I bought were made from two pieces of scotchbrite sandwiched together. That worked really good because you can smooth both sides of the rib flanges at the same time. You just stick the flange between the two. I hope this helps.