RVG8tor

Well Known Member
I was so focused on the hole that goes through the HS-405 thru the 810 angle I did not watch the top and bottom flanges. When I drilled the holes for the top and bottom of the HS-405 using the skin as a guide the last two holes on the forward end of the flange came out very close to the edge. One is right at the limit the other is 1/32- over the limit.

Is there any fudge factor here or is this edge distance thing. If there were only two holes in this area I would say get some new parts, but this is one of multiple holes that run along the long edge of the HS-405 rib. Just looking for suggestions. Like many things there are guidelines and hard and fast rules, just wonder what edge distance fudge factors might be available.

I am talking about the last hole in the upper flange - forward side of the HS-405, this is the most inboard of the HS ribs.

Cheers
 
I did almost the exact same thing on my -4 :) My tech counsellor and one person at Van's said "don't worry, keep on building". Another person at Van's said "better to re-do it than worry about it later".

According to the books (Jeppesen Aircraft Sheet Metal), the edge distance shall be 2 1/2 D, max 4D and min 2D. So the "fudge factor" is -1/2D +1 1/2D from the recommended 2 1/2D. If the edge distance is too large, the sheet will curle up, and if the edge distance is too small, the strength of the edge will weaken.

So really, what you are talking about is "fudging the fudge factor". Being an engineer myself, fudging the fudge factors is something you just don't do - without explisit analysis of the stresses and strains to make sure it is OK. The reason for this is that by following the codes (like edge rules), you can build "anything" without doing any analysis, because all the analysis has been done before as part of the code. If you deviate from the code, you also deviate from the basics of which the analysis of the code is based on.

I decided to re-do the part. Not because I think 1/32 of an inch error on a single rivet will weaken the overall structure, it won't, but mainly because it was outside the quality limits I have decided to follow, and the line has to be drawn somewhere. In this case the line has already been drawn for me, and I have been left with a huge fudge factor to play with (2D to 4D). Also I think it is better to leave erors like this to the places that can't easely be fixed.
 
.....One is right at the limit the other is 1/32- over the limit. Is there any fudge factor here or is this edge distance thing.......
My tech counsellor and one person at Van's said "don't worry, keep on building". Another person at Van's said "better to re-do it than worry about it later".

Mike,

There IS a fudge factor, but you have entered into a realm in which a precise answer is very difficult to provide because in my experience on the production floor, short e.d. conditions (which are quite common believe it or not) are almost always dealt with on a case by case basis by a quality control department working with a cadre of liason and stress engineers who get paid to consider such matters. Sometimes an answer can take WEEKS before filtering down to the shop floor. Most times though, the answer comes within minutes or hours. It all depends upon the area in which the specific short e.d. occurs. I've been okayed to install a fastener in a certain area with barely more than 1D. and on the other extreme, forced to do an extensive repair on another area that just barely fell short of minimum e.d. standards. Structural analysis is an arcane art. You can ask Van's for their opinion, and I say this with sincere respect....unless the numbers have been crunched to simulate a specific condition being subjected to the maximum anticipated loads over the life of the structure, the otherwise qualified and well-meaning staff may just as well stick their wetted finger to the wind.

If you are looking for a boilerplate, definitive answer to your most reasonable of questions....sorry....it just doesn't exist.
 
I was so focused on the hole that goes through the HS-405 thru the 810 angle I did not watch the top and bottom flanges. When I drilled the holes for the top and bottom of the HS-405 using the skin as a guide the last two holes on the forward end of the flange came out very close to the edge. One is right at the limit the other is 1/32- over the limit.
It's fine I think. 1/8th protruding head fasteners? Last hole? Thick or sheet part?

A 1/8" rivet needs 0.25 for e/D=2.0; You're 1/32= 0.03125 short?
Your new edge over Dia or e/D is:
1/8th rivet > (0.25-0.03125)/.125 = 1.75 (not really that short)

3/32" rivet needs 0.1875 for e/D=2.0. Your new e/D:
3/32th rivet > (.1875-0.03125)/3.32 = 1.25
(getting short, anything under 1.5 needs a little more analysis, but it could still can be totally OK)

Questions that engineers ask: How is the fastener loaded, in tension or shear? What size and type of fastener? How thick are the parts? What other fasteners are in the joint? There are so many things to consider and ways to evaluate the issue problem w/ logic.

The Fix? (Use as is/Fix/Scrap)
How hard is it to fix? Frankly sometimes leaving it the heck alone is best. You can make it worse by monkeying with it. Some typical fixes might be a doubler riveted to the part with short e/D. (note: repair rivets go though just repaired part and doubler usually, not through the whole joint; flush rivets are sometimes needed or possible; just an extra piece of metal in there can just act like a spacer not a doubler if not done properly attached.) If the e/d is REAL SHORT, some times not using the hole and relocation of another hole/fastener can work or additional fasteners. Sometimes a new part is the best way to go. Van is good about selling parts at reasonable cost. There are too many scenarios. Your case, I don't have my RV-7 dwg in front of me which should be like the -8. I can't picture off the top of my head with out a visual aid.

You have two main issues, ultimate strength & fatigue life, one or both can be affected by short e/D, or these things may not be affected at all. Often engineers are worried about fatigue life. On a large commercial jetliners that fly more in a year than some GA planes fly in their total life, its often more a factor than ultimate strength. Fatigue is based on the GAG or ground-air-ground mission and utilization. Lets skip that but suffice to say GA planes have it a little easier simply because they fly so little, relatively speaking. Plus airliners are pressurized which puts major cyclic stresses on the fuselage every flight, smooth or rough air.


Is there any fudge factor here or is this edge distance thing. If there were only two holes in this area I would say get some new parts, but this is one of multiple holes that run along the long edge of the HS-405 rib. Just looking for suggestions. Like many things there are guidelines and hard and fast rules, just wonder what edge distance fudge factors might be available.

I am talking about the last hole in the upper flange - forward side of the HS-405, this is the most inboard of the HS ribs.
e/D=2D is plenty, center of hole to edge. Call it the rule of thumb. Some times in critical areas that should not be violated or e/D greater than 2D is needed (not usually but possible). Some times you just can't get 2D and have to accept it. Often 1.5D will be fine, depending on location. As Rick says below even 1D can even be enough. It's ain't pretty but GOOD ENOUGH is good enough. Also because you have sweated over this hole/fastener it has been scrutinized, so we assume its perfect in every other way. The hole will be lightly and properly deburred (not too much of couse because that will aggravate the short e/D). You will make sure the rivet is set perfect. Your care and inspection really makes that joint statistical better because its perfect in all other ways, save the short e/D. You may have problems un-noticed in other joints that you're not aware of. That is why structure in airplanes is somewhat redundant with multi fasterners. Now if its an "Oh Gosh" bolt, a single load path than greater care and less tolerance is given.

liaison and stress engineers who get paid to consider such matters. Sometimes an answer can take WEEKS before filtering down to the shop floor. Most times though, the answer comes within minutes or hours.
At one time I wore the title of stress engineer and liaison engineer. If your stress guys take weeks, they either forgot about you or its marginal and scrapping the part or assembly would cost WAY TOO MUCH money, so people are fighting or the customer is complaining. :D

It all depends upon the area in which the specific short e.d. occurs. I've been okayed to install a fastener in a certain area with barely more than 1D.
That is true especially if its an end fastener and it's not a hard point issue. Yes it can be complex and it's a case by case deal as you said, based on actual loads and stresses. However the "over built" aspect of a structure some times is apparent by inspection sometimes, which allows the engineer to make a on the spot acceptance of short edge with out much effort; it takes some experience, knowledge and training of course. It could be the engineer has seen that case before and already researched it.

Structural analysis is an arcane art. You can ask Van's for their opinion, and I say this with sincere respect....unless the numbers have been crunched to simulate a specific condition being subjected to the maximum anticipated loads over the life of the structure, the otherwise qualified and well-meaning staff may just as well stick their wetted finger to the wind.
I agree 100%, you need to know the exact "stress field" or critical load case or cases to analyze. Analysis is a bit of art or arcane, but let me dust off some of the mystery. The math of structural or stress analysis hasn't changed in a half of century. In the last few decades there's been a explosion in computer based tools to crunch numbers, but the theory is the same. With more computer power engineers can just run more load cases in a shorter amount of time than with slide-rulers & hand cranking. Techniques like FEA (finite element analysis) is easily done today w/ the power of a PC's & low priced (for engineering) software. More detailed information is great, but edge margin is still edge margin. The "tribal knowledge" may be viewed by the layman as arcane, but it's just collected experience & history of that type of part or structure/joint, observed, documented & correlated with mathematical analysis. Arcane or art, it really is engineering common sense, phsyics & math.

Engineers armed with (arcane) tribal knowledge can extrapolate past experience to other like structures and components with similar operating environments, which than becomes a "rule of thumb". One rule is the "standard" edge distance. From experience, it works over a wide range of structures & loading and fits empirical & experimental data.

If you are looking for a boilerplate, definitive answer to your most reasonable of questions....sorry....it just doesn't exist.
True. Van should know where the super-critical fastener edge margins are, if any. I hope the good folks at Van's answering the help line have guidance, not just a wet finger in the air to OK shorter e/D.

One last factor in the scrap/use/repair decision, HOW EASY IS IT TO INSPECT AFTER CONSTRUCTION? If its in a dark corner never to see light of day again or viewed by an eyeball, than less tolerance should be given. Also what if it cracks? Some times nothing, but if it's something like the wing spar cap or rear spar attach, its a bad thing.
 
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http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/Specs.htm

This is one of the most useful documents you can have in the shop, the Mil-Spec on riveting. It has tables of required edge distance, hole diameters, pitch, etc.

What you will find is that the 2X diameter rule, while being a good conservative rule of thumb, does allow for a considerable fudge factor and still be within accetaple limits. For example, in your situation, the rule of thumb is .250, but the Mil-Spec requires .219, a .031 fudge factor, which is exactly where you are at.

On a related note, those little colored rivet gauges are built based on the rule of thumb, not the Mil-Spec, and are therefor worse than useless. Many thousands of perfectly acceptable rivetsd have been drilled out and replaced because of those gauges, often creating more problems due to imperfect technique. Throw them in the garbage and get yourself a good dial caliper.
 
Strength Analysis

George and all who replied,

Thanks for the input. I know I am trying to fudge the fudge factor. But I also know the 2D guideline is a catch all. My reading last night leads me to believe that a calculation can be done for these rivets, I am hoping that is what Vans can do, maybe I am wrong but I know they have an engineer department. If not I will get smart on the formulas and hopefully come to a conclusion.

For the sake of further input I did a more exact measurement and the center of my holes are .149 inch from the edge. By my calculation I am at about a 1.59D edge .09375*1.59= .1491. Now in my reading I learned that in the 50's that 1.5D was kind of a standard but was changed yet many aircraft such as the F-4 Phantom which I have had the pleasure to fly were built with a 1.5D edge. What I am hoping is that these rivets are well with in the strength and fatigue life requirements they need to be.

With regard to inspection of the suspect rivets, they should be visible for inspection, the tail fairing would have to be removed but they are the forward most rivets top and bottom of the HS inner most rib (not the nose rib). This puts them in the middle of the HS at the root end.

I was thinking others might have run into this because I can't see how I could have changed the edge distance. And if I get new ribs I don't see how this is going to chang things. The rib fits into the HS forward spar, I had the rib flange angled so it fit flush with the spar and all was clamped up tight, I then drilled the holes using the skin as a guide. The skin fit all of the pre-lunched holes so the only error I can think of is the rib itself was not manufactured to spec. If the relief cutouts were made too deep then the edge could be compromised. I have attached the best picture I have with me, I did not have a chance to take a better picture. I am on a trip with my airline. The hole in question is the one at the top of the picture (not on purpose but the arrow points in the general direction). The picture was taken to show the hole that goes forward into the 810 reinforcing angle. Both the right and left HS inboard ribs have this close edge distance and all with in .002 of each other. It is the most forward 3/32 hole on the top and bottom of the rib. It sure seems like this is not me and was designed this way, yet nothing in the drawings show this.

If there is and engineer type out there, the rivet -3 flush rivet will go through the skin the 702 forward spar and then the rib. Not sure if the thick spar in the middle will help get me a smaller edge distance. I don't understand enough about the design to know if this is a shear area, it does not seem like it is.



I am off to Moscow and will not be back and able to call Van's until Wednesday, any word of advice before that will be appreciated. Steve L. if you read this I am back by the 5th of Dec. and might ask you to take a look.
 
How it was measured in the past...

........
By my calculation I am at about a 1.59D edge .09375*1.59= .1491. Now in my reading I learned that in the 50's that 1.5D was kind of a standard but was changed yet many aircraft such as the F-4 Phantom which I have had the pleasure to fly were built with a 1.5D edge.
..........

Mike... you have to be careful quoting edge distances from history....:)

The standard was not set, and some designers/factories used the edge of the hole to the sheet edge as the measurement... which actually is probably a bit easier to measure.

This means that a 1.5D specification might actually be the same as the 2D we use now (which we measure using the Mil-Std. and FAA rules).

You need a bit more back-up data to quote old standards...:)

gil A

ADDED - A nice discussion from the Mechanics Toolbox CD - available from Vans....

Consult the maintenance manual as edge distance will vary with manufacturer and with the particular aircraft.

History of Edge Distance:

In the 1950's Edge Distance was typically 1.5D or 1.5 times the hole diameter when measured from the center of the hole to the edge of the material. After the Comet disasters, it was changed in Great Britain to a minimum of 2D. Many manufacturers adopted this standard. Some old Boeing military aircraft used an edge distance of 1.7 +0.030 - 0.06 inch.
To add confusion, some manufacturers used the term "Edge Margin". Typically, Douglas often used the term "Edge Margin" while others used the term "Edge Distance". After Boeing purchased Douglas, the integration caused some confusion. To further the confusion, some sources used Edge Distance to mean the distance from the edge of the hole instead of the usual center of the hole distance.

Currently, most references use the term Edge Distance and measure from the center of the hole. Many engineering standards call for 2D +0.05 for metals. The 0.05 allows for maintaning the 2D distance after repair using oversize fasteners, and allowance for manufacturing and repair tolerances.

FAA AC65-15A page 165 states an Edge Distance of at least 2D minimum, with a recommended of 2 1/2 times rivet diameter.

Interesting strength data is contained MIL-HDBK-5 that shows significant strength reductions below 2D. Below 2D is sometimes used depending upon stress enginee
 
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Gil,

Point taken, I guess what I learned reading about this subject (your quote from one source I read last night) is that the 2D or 2.5D is a guideline that lets you build and make repairs without going into detailed analysis, however if required the analysis can be made and one might find that 2D is overkill for the strength limits required. I am hoping this is in fact true. But I want to hear what Van's has to say as well as other smart builders in the group. I did find one builder website that seems to have had this same issue, the picture did not load but the text explained the same issue I have and Van's recommended to build on, I do not have the edge distances in question. I sent a detailed email to Van's support so hopefully I will have an answer when I get home.
 
Add a strip...

Mike... looking at your picture....

If you do build on, an easy fix might be to add a bent strip of alum. (0.032? by 5/8 wide) that picks up the last skin rivet and the top (in the picture) spar rivet.

This would effectively strengthen the "bond" from the skin to the spar by "bypassing" the cut-out in the rib corner....

I'm betting you'll get a "build on" mention from Vans....:)

gil A
 
Build On?

Gil,

Thanks for the idea. I have done a Google search and found several sites that deal with this issue. All have been a build on, not just from Van's but EAA chapter folks. And looking at some of the pictures my ED is much better than some. I will see what Van's has to say, I may also take the part to our Chapter TC, he worked at Boeing or 30 years doing this stuff. He did give the the pass on my VS inspection. I started with that off others recommendation and I am glad I did, it is a piece of cake compared to the multiple issues with the center section of the HS.

Cheer
 
I was thinking others might have run into this because I can't see how I could have changed the edge distance. And if I get new ribs I don't see how this is going to chang things. The rib fits into the HS forward spar, I had the rib flange angled so it fit flush with the spar and all was clamped up tight, I then drilled the holes using the skin as a guide. The skin fit all of the pre-lunched holes so the only error I can think of is the rib itself was not manufactured to spec. If the relief cutouts were made too deep then the edge could be compromised.
My errors where on the fwd spar itself when assamblying it, so I only had to redo the spar (my first fwd spar became my lesson learned about edge distance :D ). There are no pre-drilled holes in the -4, at least not on the emp. When fluting the ribs, which includes laying out the rivets, I decided not to put any skin rivets at the small overlapping area of the spar/rib flanges because there is no way edge distances can be kept simultaneously on both flanges.

Having thought some more about it, the general rule - stress vise - is that the holes shall be min 2D distance from the edge in the direction of the stress. The direction of the stress may not allways be all that obvious without some more detailed analysis, but I would guess in that area it it will be shear stresses due to bending of the HS, so the main direction will be from tip to root on the surface rivets. This means as long as they are centered on the flange of the rib and the edge measured tip to root on the spar flange is good, it will be OK considering there are some reasonable edge distance fwd to aft. But, this could all be just meaningless guesswork, so please post what the answer from Van's is when you get it.
 
Well, I hesitated on bringing up my edge-distance problem since I got the "it's OK, build on" from Van's. Actually, I e-mailed them pictures which they showed to their "engineers" who OK'd it.

Where the forward spar of the HS bolts to the fuse are 2 bolts (on each side) that go through the spar angle, deck plate, and a piece of angle under the deck plate. That lower angle extends over the longerons and the outer most bolt on each side goes through the longeron AND the angle.

My problem is that my QB was built with that lower angle too short. It doesn't quite make it to the 90-degree bend of the longeron. So when I drilled the holes to attach the Horizontal Stab, the hole is very close to the edge of the lower angle. I'd say about 1/2 bolt diameter to the edge.

Now, the stresses here are downward...and according to Van's engineer it's nothing to worry about. But I have been worrying about it. I was thinking rather than redo that angle (which would take a lot of work and disassembly to even get to), that I could simply add a piece of .125 aluminum angle to the back of the spar and attach it to the deck plate and longeron.

Any suggestions?
 
Now, the stresses here are downward...and according to Van's engineer it's nothing to worry about. But I have been worrying about it. I was thinking rather than redo that angle (which would take a lot of work and disassembly to even get to), that I could simply add a piece of .125 aluminum angle to the back of the spar and attach it to the deck plate and longeron.

Sonny, I am not an engineer but I am a pilot, and this area of the aircraft is both highly stressed and critical to your survival so I would think you are right to question this one. I have heard it said by people far more qualified than me that the spars in the HS on RV series aircraft are one of the most highly stressed area in the aircraft. i.e. the strength of these components can determine the ultimate loading of the aircraft.

The load on these fasterners could be both up and down depending on CG, turbulance and a number of other factors. If you have doubts, make the repair. You will feel better about it.

There are two opposing views here. Vans knows his business and I would not question what he says or does, but I have occasionally felt uneasy at some of the "build on" type responses I and others have been given.

At the same time, I have personally witnessed the workmanship of some of the local LSA manufacturers and even certified aircraft. When you look down a rivet line in a spar cap or longeron and you can see the issues without anything to measure you know you are an aircraft builder!

I think it is fair to say that we homebuilders build very good airframes! Our systems installations are not always quite so good.

Make sure whatever you do, you get good advice and you are happy with the outcome.

Best

Richard
RV7A Finishing.
 
The stress are all transferred to the longeron, the angle is just clamped to it. As long as the bolt has the proper edge distance on the longeron it should be ok as Van's said.
 
The stress are all transferred to the longeron, the angle is just clamped to it. As long as the bolt has the proper edge distance on the longeron it should be ok as Van's said.

Thanks Norman. This is pretty much what the guy at Van's told me their engineer said. I would think that if there were sheer loads on the angle that it would be a problem, but there aren't (that I can see).

Again, just looking for other's points of view here. I want to build a very safe aircraft, but sometimes the "do it over because it's not perfect" motto isn't the only safe and practical way to finish a task.
 
The word from Van's

OK here is the exact quote form Van's. First let me say that I scoured several builder sites, though they did not address this edge distance issue I looked at several pictures and they all show minimum to sub minimal edge distance on the forward most holes (top and bottom) of the 405 rib. My only assumption is they did not notice the minimum issue with these parts, however, the edge distance photos on their sites show that they too have issues with minimum edge distance with these parts. Maybe Van's feels like this is too sensitive an issue to just deal with it up front in a comment in the instructions. This is what Van's had to say to my query with reference to the minimum edge distance on the 405 flange forward top and bottom -3 holes.



"The HS-405 rib flange has been slightly short ever since the first kit RV-4.
Engineering is OK with that rib and the less than perfect edge distance.
Ignore the edge distance in this case and move on.


From Van's Builder support.

I have viewed other builder sites, though not addresses up front; the the photos show they too have less than optimal edge distance. It is a personal decision to pass on information learned in the build process, if realized.

I hope this helps other builders.

As a disclaimer all builders need to assess their own situation and decide to build on or not, I will build on, I hope that posting what I received form Van's will help other builders. It is my personal unprofessional opinion that the edge distance on the top and bottom holes on the 405 ribs is not an issue.
Build on" Each builder has to make their own assessment.

Cheers Mike.
 
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