grayforge

grayforge

Well Known Member
My ECI IOX-370 engine is here and hanging by the top 2 bolts on the mount so far. Sump is the ECI Cold Air Sump. Fuel injection is Precision Silverhawk.

A couple questions about engine components before my "Firewall Forward" book arrives.

1. What's the port pointed to by the leftmost arrow below? Is the one on the right Oil Pressure?
DSC00295.JPG


2. How about the port on the mechanical fuel pump in this photo? Fuel pressure? What do most do, plug it or add a sensor to a block on the firewall with hose from here?
DSC00293.JPG


3. What's this silver thing? Anything I need to do with it?
DSC00297.JPG


4. I think ECI ran-in my engine with a different Throttle Body since the outlet hose seems to be sized to an outlet on the bottom of the Throttle Body instead of the outlet on the top shown here. So I either need to shorten the hose or move the outlet to the bottom. What do most do?
5. Also, is this the proper orientation of the throttle body?
6. Will standard Vans throttle & mixture brackets work?
DSC00298.JPG


Thanks!
Russ
 
1---tach drive??? not sure ?? Pull the cap off and look in there.

2 is fuel drain------if the diaphragm ruptures it keeps fuel out of the crankcase.

3 is vernatherm.

5 I dont think it matters, as there is no float bowl. Whatever fits best, and works with hoses and cables.
 
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Mike S said:
1---tach drive??? not sure ?? Pull the cap off and look in there.

2 is fuel drain------if the diaphragm ruptures it keeps fuel out of the crankcase.

3 is vernatherm.

5 I dont think it matters, as there is no float bowl. Whatever fits best, and works with hoses and cables.
Click to expand...

3 look like engine oil press adjustment
 
For #1, looks like there's a socket head in there, maybe for an allen wrench. So Tach driver sounds reasonable. I wonder if I need a real cap for this instead of the plastic one.

ACS sells a very nice one with a hex head and safety wire holes so that it can be properly secured.
 
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Parts ID

1-Tach Drive

2-Drain port in case of internal fuel leakage, this one gets plumbed out the bottom of the cowling.

3-Oil Pressure Adjustment and it looks like its bottomed out in the max pressure direction. These normally have about 1/2" of the threads showing. Be cautious of first start as to what the oil pressure does.

Don B
RV 9 Engine Build almost done.
 
Wow I'm surprised you guys are building a plane and don't know this beforehand!! Or after!! Cmon!! :eek:

1. Tach drive
2. Oil Pressure port.
3. Oil pressure regulator adjustment.
4. Fuel pump overboard drain line
5. Metered fuel line fitting (connects to the line dangling there next to it.)
 
Ya gotta learn sometime, which is what I'm trying to do now. What are the best resources for this info? I have the Lycoming engine book, but it's just a series of hints. Not sure if Vans includes this sort of detailed information in their FF kit.

The other resource I have is the Firewall Forward book by Tony Bingelis. I received it yesterday and went through it last night. Unfortunately, it's just a high level overview of a variety of FF items, not a deep dive into "What's needed to connect your engine". :-(
 
Also, with cars, I'm used to taking manifold pressure off the intake manifold (hence the name :) ). For the Lycoming, it looks like you get it from a port under the cylinder head.

I wonder if each P-Mag gets its MAP line connected to a different cylinder or if you just use one cylinder to drive both P-Mags and your MAP gauge. I suppose one could tie 2 cylinders together to average out the manifold pressure reading a little bit.
 
I'm glad that you are learning Russ - that is one of the things that this activity is all about! However....it is tough to learn this thing on your own, from books. However (again!), it is really easy to figure these simple power plants out in an hour of going over one that is installed, with an experienced hand to answer questions.

If I were in your shoes, I'd find a local builder/pilot with a flying RV, offer him lunch in exchange for taking off his cowl and going over the FWF with him. With your gearhead background, it should all be clear pretty fast.

But you're right - the various books and manuals leave out a lot of key details. They tell you everything you already know, and answer few questions.

Considering how critical the FWF is, finding a local hand or TC is a good investment at this point. We pretty much ALL started out as rookies and learned by interacting with other mechanics and builders along the way.
 
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Tach. drive question...

With regard to the tach. drive cap question. Yes it is a good idea to get a good cap for the drive opening. I have used a number of different ones over time.
The one I found that I like the most is the one made by Andair. Aircraft Spruce has them in stock.
Hope this helps as I know I run across something new almost every day..
Yours as always. R.E.A. III #80888
 
cajunwings said:
1-Tach Drive

2-Drain port in case of internal fuel leakage, this one gets plumbed out the bottom of the cowling.

3-Oil Pressure Adjustment and it looks like its bottomed out in the max pressure direction. These normally have about 1/2" of the threads showing. Be cautious of first start as to what the oil pressure does.

Don B
RV 9 Engine Build almost done.
Click to expand...

Hi Don,

Here's a better photo of the Oil Pressure Adjuster. Interestingly, there's a gap between the castle nut and mechanism, with a pin keeping the nut from turning. This doesn't seem quite right. But maybe it's fine?
OilPressAdj.JPG
 
The but is pinned to provide a way to turn the shaft. It should be out a ways. The spring should have been chosen to leave at least 3 threads exposed when set to correct pressure to allow further adjustment. All good.
 
I'm seeing that the engine hook up could take quite some time. I've already found a bunch of twiddly things I'll need to address:
  1. Manifold Pressure nipple & lines. In Firewall Forward kit?
  2. I'll be adding a fuel flow sensor, so even though the ECI engine came with all fuel lines from the fuel pump to spider installed, I'll need to have new ones done.
  3. Even though my engine came with the Silverhawk fuel injection, the throttle body wasn't mounted and I don't have the bolts to mount it to the sump. Looks like 5/16-18 threads and they need to have holes for safety wiring or maybe lock washers. I'll have to check with ECI and Precision to see who typically supplies these.
  4. I already moved the throttle body fuel outlet fitting to the bottom since the fuel line to the spider was sized for that location. But there's not a ton of clearance with the cowling, so I might get that line resized too and use the top outlet position on the throttle body.

Maybe I should stop until I get the FF kit. That may answer a lot of questions.
 
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