[woodmanrog]

I read occasionally about the problem of dragging the brakes while taxiing because the throw from brake off to on is only about 1/4". I realized this on my first RV mainly because I have size 12's and my toes were always midway up the pedals even when my heels were on the floor. Very easy to inadvertently be slightly depressing the brakes without meaning to. Here is the solution. Also, I might add, similarly adapted by Cessna by building it into the pedal design. Anyway, here is what you do: Either get hold of some 1/2 round dowel or create you own( I used an old closet hanging pole) and cut it slightly shorter than the width of the brake pedal. Then simply adhere the 1/2 dowel to the lowest edge of the of the brake with double stick tape. Now when you are resting your feet on the floor you will be pushing the brake pedal backward until you raise your toes above the dowel. Easy fix and has worked really well on my past 3 Rv's. The photo shows the dowels that will be installed next week on our new 14.

 

[Kyle Boatright]

Lots of us zip tie lengths of fuel or heater hose around the horizontal segments of the rudder pedals for the same reason. The half-round probably gives a little better stand-off distance, but I suspect the zip-tied hose will do a better job of staying where you want it.

 

[bret]

Another great idea here on VAF!

 

[woodmanrog]

I'll post another pic when I have installed the dowels on N199MJ. I use VHB double stick tape and they never move unless you want to take them off. Putting hose around the rudder pedal below the brake pedal won't guarantee that vibration won't cause the brake pedal to occasionally rock back and forth and be tapping the brake pads on and off the disc. Anyway, that's my personal logic. Cheers

 

[Bill Boyd]

More pics "wood" be helpful

but I think he is talking about adhering these to the lowest part of the flat brake pedal (below the hinge pivot line?), not the cross tube below.

 

[AndyRV7]

When I began my TW experience, I was always afraid I would tap the brakes while landing and trying to control the rudder only. So I've always flown with the outside lower corners of the pedals where the frame is. It keeps me from touching the brakes unless I want to, no matter how far you push the rudder pedal.

 

[Kyle Boatright]

but I think he is talking about adhering these to the lowest part of the flat brake pedal (below the hinge pivot line?), not the cross tube below.

I agree, but the intent is the same - eliminate or reduce inadvertent brake application.

 

[rvbuilder2002]

For any of the side by side models all it takes is positioning your feet so that your toes point out outboard slightly so that you are pushing on the outboard (relative to your feet) side tube of the rudder pedal assy, rather than the brake pedal.
If you need brake it is then requires just a very small movement of your toes inboard so that they land on the brake pedal portion of the rudder pedals.
Sounds more complicated than it really is. With just a little practice it becomes second nature.

 

[RV7ator]

This is a common complaint. I believe a commercial strap-on product is offered by some outfit.

The simple fix to the lousy Van's design for the brake pedal is to turn 'em around so the 3/4" angle is on the face (the surface you press on). This sets the plate surface forward 7/8", producing the same effect as strapping on a riser to the face of the rudder bar. You can also tip the pedal top edge somewhat forward during fitment, but go easy on this as your ankle doesn't have much range of motion in this direction - essentially standing on your tippy-toes.

John Siebold

 

[SMRacer]

Easy, but more expensive solution

For those of you who have more money than time.

http://www.jdair.com/rudder-pedal-extensions-for-vans-rv-aircraft-rv-4-rv-6-rv-7-rv-9-rv-10/

 

[lr172]

This is a common complaint. I believe a commercial strap-on product is offered by some outfit.

The simple fix to the lousy Van's design for the brake pedal is to turn 'em around so the 3/4" angle is on the face (the surface you press on). This sets the plate surface forward 7/8", producing the same effect as strapping on a riser to the face of the rudder bar. You can also tip the pedal top edge somewhat forward during fitment, but go easy on this as your ankle doesn't have much range of motion in this direction - essentially standing on your tippy-toes.

John Siebold

This is what I did also and it works great. Woodman's idea is clever, but I would be worried that all of my pressure for rudder movement would be via the brake pedal and not the pedal bar. The interface between the brake pedal and rudder bar is aluminum to steel and I would be worried about wearing the aluminum bore over time. May not be an issue, but would require some thought.

Larry

 

[rzbill]

There is another aspect to dragging brakes on my 7A that I would like to bring up.

I did all the right stuff about pedal angle and free movement to let the brakes return. Good to go in that arena.

However, when hand pulling into the hangar during the first year after construction, I noticed my brakes were frequently "dragging".

The solution for me was to turn the idle RPM down on the engine. (from 800ish to 600ish). I had noticed I was having to apply the brakes a lot during taxi to keep the speed under control.

My brakes are now quite free when pulling the plane after flight and have been for 3 years after this change.

I live on tarmac so this might not apply to a plane that lives on grass.

 

[Bill Boyd]

Absolutely right

For any of the side by side models all it takes is positioning your feet so that your toes point out outboard slightly so that you are pushing on the outboard (relative to your feet) side tube of the rudder pedal assy, rather than the brake pedal.
If you need brake it is then requires just a very small movement of your toes inboard so that they land on the brake pedal portion of the rudder pedals.
Sounds more complicated than it really is. With just a little practice it becomes second nature.

The paint wear on the side tubes of my pedals show just how second-nature this quickly became. Effortless and effective technique

 

[Rupester]

For any of the side by side models all it takes is positioning your feet so that your toes point out outboard slightly so that you are pushing on the outboard (relative to your feet) side tube of the rudder pedal assy, rather than the brake pedal.
If you need brake it is then requires just a very small movement of your toes inboard so that they land on the brake pedal portion of the rudder pedals.
.

Exactly.