R

ron sterba

Well Known Member
At the point to install a Dynon Stunt & 60 amp fuse from the alternator feed to the fuse block. I have my master relay and start solenoid mounted per 9A plans. I have a copper bar between the master relay and the starter relay. On the new alternator from Vans (installed) the circuit print shows my RED wire from the Alternator side of the MASTER SWITCH with a 5 amp fuse.(5amp fuse push/pull 1" from master switch) (White not being used). Now my 8 AWG gauge has to come from the alternator to the master or endurance fuse block with a 60 amp fuse as depicted on OP10 of the drawings and this seems to be where I stop.

How does this idea sound. I bring my alternator 8 AWG wire thru the firewall with my ignition wires. Then 8AWG goes to a 60 amp breaker push/pull on my panel (which Vans sells) and then the 8AWG to my fuse block, (i have three,battery buss, master buss,endurance buss).

So how does one install/where/ the Dynon shunt???? My instrument panel is now back from powder coating and silk screening is next. I think I'll need to silkscreen references to the panel fuse.

I have a battery buss thats on a door that drops down on the right side underneath the panel and a Split buss 16 position ATC type Bussman front THRU- the panel fuss holder.

PICTURES always a PLUS!

Open to ALL ideas you have. I have two skyviews.

Thanks Guys
Ron in Oregon
 
I didn't install a 60 amp fuse but did install an ANL fuse on the firewall. Mine is mounted close enough to the master relay that I used a piece of copper bus bar to connect the two.

My shunt is mounted on the left instrument panel rib, between the firwall and the sub panel.
 
I don't recommend bringing the Alt. B line through the firewall at all. The shorter you can keep that line and the connected run to the battery the better.
I mounted a 60a ANL fuse and shunt next to the left of the starter relay and bussed it with a sold piece of copper bar.

The battery is like a big sponge when it comes to electrical noise, and alternators are noisy. If you run your B lead through the firewall, it has to go back to the Battery the long way home making it far less effective absorbing noise.

There is also no reason to have you alternator B line protection inside. If it trips, there isn't much you can do about it in the air.

This is straight Aeroelectric Connection stuff.
 
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Ok I will not run the alternator B line through the firewall. That said, My Dynon stunt looks like it is a ANL fuse as well as a shunt? (just googled ANL fuse and seems there are a few styles to pick from,one better fitted than the other. B&C has one shown) So if I get your thoughts here, I come off the master relay stud (thats the side attached to starter solenoid ) with a copper bar to the stunt then right into the ANL fuse and then the 8AWG right to the fuse block?Y?N or as Bill said fused at the master relay then 8 AWG to the shunt on the sub panel then 8 AWG to the fuse block.?. :)
This is starting to make sense so bare with me. Be back in about 3 hours.
Ron in Oregon
 
I think you have about got it. It depends on if you are setting up the shunt for a charge/discharge or for a load meter. Your Batt is the copper buss bar connecting to the Master Relay and the Starter Relay in a typical RV.

Alt. B lead connects through the fuse and shunt to the Batt For charge/discharge.

Alt. B lead connects to the Batt through the fuse but the shunt connects between the Batt. and your main buss for load meter.

I fabricated fusible links to protect the shunt sense wires. Much easier and cleaner than fuses.
 
Here is how I positioned mine on the firewall.

IMG_3397-M.jpg

The ANL and Shunt are sitting close to each other with copper buss bar between

Here is another photo with the various wires connected.

IMG_3848-M.jpg


Alternator output goes to the ANL, then to the other side of the firewall where the VP-X resides and provides power to all of the circuits.

I originally had the wires to the shunt reversed. Here they are in the correct position (Dynon's "A" position).

IMG_4961-M.jpg


I painted the copper buss bars with some liquid electrical tape insulation.
 
GEEEE guys (Bill,Jon,Eddie,Bruce) after your presentation and super pictures is was hand in hand. I got it now!!! Found I was a little confused with the fig 7-12 in Aeroelecrtic with the dashed line around the outside of the schematic. I get it now on the flow of current to the battery from the fuse, from the feed of the alternator. ITS a "Y" part of the circuit" then the other part of the "Y" circuit current flow either from the battery or alternator (Dependeng on the current requirement) thru the shunt and into the master relay buss bar and then to the fuse blocks. I believe I got it right now.

Now Jon you mentioned the fuse-able links on the sensor feed wires off the shunt to the Dynon unit. I haven't quite got there on those two leads, do you put fuse-able links on both wires going to the Dynon? I will make that my reading when I get to the hangar tomorrow.

Much apppreciated guys!! Thanks

Another step closer in UNDERSTANDING!
Ron in Oregon
 
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I chose too put them on both. They are easy to make. My set up is very similar to Bruce's except mine is set up to read charge discharge not load.
 
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Under the red shrink wrap on the wires going to the shunt are some 1A pigtail fuses soldered on that I got from Digikey (part F2313-ND).
 
Jon do you have just a meter for the charge/discharge reading. So Bruces then would be used in a EFIS of one brand or another? Do manufacturers ever make a protection cover over these two?(ANL fuse and the shunt). I did like the idea of the liquid tape. I have some in my cabinet,good stuff. You know its been 4 1/2 yrs into my build and my plane looks like the real thing but I can hardly tell you how I built something three years ago so my point is this,it is another engineering job which I'll never do again but pounding out the thoughts on how current flows is good forever. Bruce I have that catalog from digikey I'll look it up,thanks. Everybody should a least go on line to see what Digikey has to offer, great source of everything electrical.

Ron
 
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Wheres a good place to buy the ANL fuse with cover? internet has prices around $6-$9. And then there is $29 for ANL fuse and cover. So were would you shop? Stein said he doesn't carry them.
Thanks
Ron
 
Most EFIS's or ammeters don't care. They show both positive and negative flow. It is all in where you put the shunt.
I bought the ANL fuse and cover from B&C. My shunt came from JPI and is much smaller than the one Bruce has. I did not protect it with any kind of cover.
 
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