[logansc]

Guys: I'm helping a friend build an older (pre-2006) RV-8. I'm trying to sort out the installation of his pitch servo and have just spent the last hour surfing the VAF site for someone else who might have asked this question before, but I can't find it---sorry if this one has been answered many times---I just couldn't find it.

The Dynon servo has four mounting holes and in most of the pictures I've seen, at least two and sometimes even three of them are used. In the installation diagrams we got with his Dynon servo for the RV-8, however, it appears it is only bolted to the brackets at the bottom left bolt hole (facing the servo arm). The only bolt I can see goes through both brackets via a 3/4" spacer. The installation seems not to use any of the other three holes at all, but maybe I'm just not seeing it. The only option to me seems to use the one on the bottom right, but that would clearly interfere with the bell crank arm. Are people tapping the bracket on the same side as the servo and bolting into it from the back side? I don't want to install this thing with only one bolt, but I can't see how to do it.

If anyone can send me a link to pictures of a nice, sanitary RV-8/Dynon pitch servo installation, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


Lee...

 

[Mark Dickens]

Just installed one of these on my pre-06 RV-8. No, you definitely do not install these with only one bolt. Yes, you have the left hand bolt that installs through the spacer tube and then you have the shorter bolt that installs through the left bell crank mount toward the front. In re: interfering with the bell crank, yes it will interfere with three of the bell crank rivets. I took them out and replaced them with flush rivets. And no, Dynon says nothing about needing to do this to avoid interference with the mounting bolt. I'll try to get some photos of my installation and post them

 

[Mark Dickens]

Here's a photo:

You can see the forward mounting bolt

 

[logansc]

Mark: Thanks a million. That is exactly what I was looking for. On first inspection, it didn't appear that there was room for a bolt head on the inside of the left mounting flange (left, as in, looking forward) that would also clear the bell crank. Your setup looks good and makes perfect sense. The real challenge now will be to figure out how to cotter pin all the castellated nuts and to safety wire all the bolt heads in such a tight space!

Thanks very much for taking the time to help out.

Regards,


Lee...

 

[Mark Dickens]

Mark: Thanks a million. That is exactly what I was looking for. On first inspection, it didn't appear that there was room for a bolt head on the inside of the left mounting flange (left, as in, looking forward) that would also clear the bell crank. Your setup looks good and makes perfect sense. The real challenge now will be to figure out how to cotter pin all the castellated nuts and to safety wire all the bolt heads in such a tight space!

Thanks very much for taking the time to help out.

Regards,


Lee...

Lee, I don't recall having any castle nuts to pin. All of the nuts I got were nyloks. They provided the bolts with the safety wire holes but then tell you to use lock washers (which they also provide) and that's what I did. If in looking at this, you think that's the wrong approach, let me know. Their instructions were not that clear.