[RudiGreyling]

Hi Guys,

Is the rivet callout on the bottom skin root rib correct on DWG12? Leave only every 2nd rivet open compared to top skin where every 3rd rivet is open. I can't find the matching Fuselage drawing so I just want to make sure.

Thanks,
Rudi

 

[Hawkeye7A]

Yes, that's correct

Hey Rudy,
I just followed the plans/drawings for my -7A and they worked out more perfectly than you can imagine. The corresponding drawing you're looking for is #38 which shows the wing root fairing. It will be much more apparent how things line up when you go to stab the wings the first time. You'll also need to trim the inboard edge of the root fairing to give the specified gap for the rubber seal. I found a thin-tipped Sharpie with both caps removed and then held flat against the fuse gave me a perfect gap. Good luck!

 

[RudiGreyling]

I am confused now

Hi Hawk,

thanks for the reference to DWG 38...
I looked DWG 38 up, but know I am completely confused . You say DWG12 rivet callout for the bottom skin is correct, but it looks like the bottom wing fairing on DWG 38 wants every 3rd hole open.

Anyone else remember what drawing is actually correct?

Thank you,
Kind Regards
Rudi

 

[Jamie]

Rudi:

I agree that this is a vague area. Here is the bottom of the right wing as I was getting ready to mate them to the fuselage. It's a crappy picture, but you can easily see what I did and it all worked out perfectly. The Sharpie pen marks point to the open holes.

 

[RV7ator]

Van's Goofed

Rudi,

The wing drawing is wrong. Space screws every third rivet on the bottom per the fairing drawing. You're not holding the wing to the fuse with these screws, just closing up a gap with a sheet metal tab, and third spacing is plenty to keep it from puckering. Besides, it's on the bottom!

Break, break.

I got to thinking about the above. Maybe Van's expects a significant load to be carried across this joint tieing the wing skin to the fuse. (So what are spars for?!) They are silent but imply with the pictorial every second rivet on this line. The fairing doesn't even attach to the fuse so it needs only enough screws to follow the wing contour.

Well, my first 7 hasn't fallen out of the sky (yet) and I used tri-spacing just because. When in doubt, follow the instructions, whichever you like most.

John Siebold

 

[RudiGreyling]

Thanks guys,

well it looks like there is no clear answer on this. Luckily you can squeeze these rivets, so I'm going to leave it open until I get my fusalage create open and close to that stage.

Regards,
Rudi

 

[Captain_John]

Leaving it for later is a good strategy, Rudi.

Hey, seems that you are really moving along!

Have you completed your ailerons and flaps too?

CJ

 

[RudiGreyling]

Leaving it for later is a good strategy, Rudi.

Hey, seems that you are really moving along!

Have you completed your ailerons and flaps too?

CJ

Hi John,
I'll send an email to vans support and see what hey say, if they can't give me a clear answer, I will just leave them open till later...

Yip the ailerons and flaps is done. I did that first, before tackling the wings. The reason is I completed the empanage @ training course @ Alexander tech in the USA. When I got home in South Africa, I wanted to start with something small, hence I chose to build the flaps and ailerons before tackling the bigger components. If I screwed up on something small it would not be a big deal, and easy to order and replace.

I am going to leave my outboard skins, the tips and pitot tube pluming, and aileron and flap rigging till near the end of the project. The main reason being I might install a roll servo, nice pitot, later when newer technology is available. My ailerons and flaps are currently bubble wrapped and stowed away, so no need to open them up now just to trail fit, and then wrapped it up again.

So I am going to move on to the fuselage over the weekend. I cant wait!!

Regards
Rudi

 

[RudiGreyling]

OK got a response from Vans...basically they say follow the wing drawing

Rudy: use every third hole on the top of the wing to attach the
removable fairing. Use every second hole on the bottom of the
wing to attach the overhanging skin of the fuselage.

I think I'll wait till I get to that stage on the fuse, before commiting my rivets to holes.

 

[Jamie]

It really doesn't matter if you wait now or later. The holes in the bottom fairing (which is actually just the bottom fuse skin) are not pre-punched. You'll use lines to mark the location of the open holes on the fairing, then drill through the fairing into the wing while biting your tongue and hoping that your bit sinks into the open hole underneath. Besides, if you screw it up and put a rivet where it shouldn't be, it's no big deal. You're going to have to drill out the hole to #19 anyway...so you could probably just drill it with the rivet in there. If you leave some out? Well, that's no big deal. Just put them in there when you're attaching the anchor nuts for the screws.

 

[RudiGreyling]

Thanks Jamie,

Now I get it, there is no prepunched holes in the bottom fairing. (Why did no-one say so! ). Well in that case what you say makes sense.

Regards
Rudi