HFS

Well Known Member
All you "oldsters" out there who (once upon a time) did all your own layout & drilling, already know this tip; but, for those "newbies" who don't need to layout/drill their own holes, you'll probably never need it - but still good to know ...

For (some of) those holes that are hard to access for the initial drilling because of a close by surface that precludes direct application of a drill bit here's a Neanderthal method -

#40 x 12" bit with a hardwood block "handle" with #40 hole drilled at the tapered end. Use the handle as a "guide" to square drill bit up to target surface - while maintaining that orientation, complete the hole.

There a lot more new fangled gadgets out there to do this, but if you don't have one (or more), this works (and is adjustable).

HFS
 

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That beats the heck out of my usual method of just holding the bit between my finger and thumb becasue I didn’t want to go get (find?) my block of wood with the hole drilled in it…..
 
Even easier is use a #50 to pilot the hole......
... only if you have straight on access with the drill motor body, sometimes even right angle air drills can't get close enough. If you're an "assembler", none of the previous applies, if your a "builder", you've already been there.

HFS
 
... only if you have straight on access with the drill motor body, sometimes even right angle air drills can't get close enough. If you're an "assembler", none of the previous applies, if your a "builder", you've already been there.

HFS
We used to bow a #50 as much as 60 degrees or more, off axis to pilot holes in structure where edge distance was a concern on one part and we had no guide for drilling from the other side. The #50 made it a heck of a lot easier to pull the hole or straighten if need be... Used to freak the new kids out when you practically drill around the corner with them. :)

For those that don't know, threaded bits for a right angle drill come in various lengths, all the way down to a 5/16ths bit length or even shorter at times.