Adam Oke

Adam Oke

Well Known Member
Well,

I've got some cash flow again, and I will be back to work in May ... so it's back to the Tool Department and Workshop Upgrades before the big order come September! I will be building an independent DRDT-2 table using the same design as EAA tables with slight modifications. I want to build a removable 'Bed' on top of the surface.

My question out to everyone: Is the blueprint that comes with the DRDT-2 sufficient in size .... or did you wish you had made the top surface larger?

My plan to have the bed removable and not permanently fixed to the table, so that I can use it for other things if necessary.
 
I built the table to the plans provided with the DRDT-2. To date, it has been sufficient for everything except the big skins. They are a 2-man job.
 
I built the table to plans...

And I would do the same if I did it again. When it came to large sheets, I put cardboard boxes on the work table on either side of the DRDT and used the boxes as outboard supports for the overhanging end of the sheet.
 
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Adam,

I built my DRDT-2 table according to the plans. The plans are ambiguous as to the width of the table. Basically, they say to build it as wide "as needed". I didn't want to build a dedicated table that would take up shop space for something that is not used frequently, so I built it relatively narrow, about 3 feet wide overall. The table is placed on my large workbench when I need to use the DRDT-2 and stowed out of the way at other times.

In my view, this table would be inadequate on its own. So, I built an 'auxiliary' table that I set on either side of the normal table as needed. I like that I can move these two tables out of the way when not in use. It also comes in handy to be able to move these two tables around on the workbench when I am using the dimpler.

Basically, you will need to choose between:

1. Building a very wide dedicated table. This can be done as you described to create a multipurpose table that the dimpler can be removed from. Not helpful if you don't have the additional space and already have a large workbench otherwise.

2. The DRDT-2 can be embedded in an existing workbench such that it can be removed when not in use and a plug of sorts placed in the hole left by the DRDT-2 to allow the workbench to be used normally. The downside of this might be complexity and creating a support surface that won't scratch your skins, but also serves as a workbench at other times.

3. Build a small table according to plans, place it on an existing workbench when needed and use something (cardboard boxes, a small auxiliary table, stacks of foam, etc.) to support large skins that overhang as needed.
 
My portable solution

I didn't want to mount the thing to a dedicated bench so I mounted it to an extra roll around cart I had. It works excellent! I have considered making some removable table extensions for the larger pieces. The outboard wing skins I did solo with the extra running off the table to the workbench which is a similar height.

P1012027.JPG
 
large dedicated table not required

It is true that the large skins need support over a considerable area. Instead of building a dedicated table this large attached to the DRDT-2, I suggest a smaller table is adequate as long as it is the same height as your main workbench. The DRDT-2 and its small table can be rolled up next to the main workbench to support a huge skin. It worked fine for me.
 
Adam,

You can go on my website listed and look for the dash-2 table I built
3 years ago. Works very well and can do all the skins and the -2 won't move on you. Two 4x4 tables with 2 carriage bolts that hold the -2 in a vise.
The -2 can be turned upside down and you can use the whole table to put stuff on that you can never find. Works great for me and loved it for the side skins and the bottom skins.
Take a look and hope you like it.
 
Great Idea!

Don Jones said:
I didn't want to mount the thing to a dedicated bench so I mounted it to an extra roll around cart I had. It works excellent! I have considered making some removable table extensions for the larger pieces. The outboard wing skins I did solo with the extra running off the table to the workbench which is a similar height.

P1012027.JPG
Click to expand...

Don,
I love that Idea of putting the DRDT-2 on a small rolling bench. I would think that if I made the surface of the DRDT-2 table the same height as my EAA work benches, then I could roll it right in the gap between the two benches and they would be the left and right extension on both sides for the big stuff when needed. Thanks!! Searching the archives is a great education!
 
I built a full size independent table for mine, this only works really if you have the room for it tho. it could not be any more solid and has worked out perfectly, Since im not in the states I don't have exact dimensions but i believe it is 4'X5' and probably 4'6'' tall or so. I have 3 more skins to dimple and then I plan on either selling it or preferably doing a one for one trade for someone else s DRDT that is not mounted.

P1270083.jpg


-david
 
I built a shelf that attaches between my two EAA benches which then act as the extensions. I run 4 bolts through the bench legs and it's all on rollers. I have disassembled it, so no photos.
 
I built my table 30 in. high to get good leverage, table is angle iron frame and plywood table top with removable carpet upper table.
 
I built the table according to the plans that came with the DRDT-2. I just set the DRDT on my normal work bench, then set the dimple table on that. I just dimpled the tail cone skins for my -10, and I was able to do the entire job single handed. They only trick I used is that I have a shop stool with a back that's about the same height as my dimple table surface. I use this to support the end of the longer parts.

You can see how I used the chair in the video of me dimpling the tail cone skins:
http://youtu.be/A-IArpAeTws
 
I made my dimpling tables from about $5 worth of surplus laminate flooring, along with about another $5 worth of indoor/outdoor carpet. The sides are connected to the top through pieces of 2x2 lumber from my scrap bin. I clamped the dimpler to the lip of the workbench with a couple of 1" C-clamps, while each of the table halves are independent and free standing. This makes the whole set-up removable in just a couple of minutes to free up the workbench as required. I need to cut the corners back on the outboard table sides like I did with the inboard sides so that a folded skin such as this HS-701 will have less interference with the table.

Here I have my DRDT-2 dimpling tool and dimpling tables set up and ready to dimple the HS-701 right skin.
DSCN3100.JPG
 
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