[RV Wannabe]

I saw your jacking system and then did some research. I think I like it but didn't find anything exactly like yours in the search.

Did you purchase this or have something bent up and welded? Or even find something already bent and add to it? I saw some others made of square stock and welded. Just curious if this is available on the market.

Also wondered if anyone has a photo of where the cable sits when jacking, and also the u-bolt some talked about in the other threads.

Thanks
Mark

[ed. Picture of jack..... I *believe* I have one of the original prototypes. It was, I believe, made by Don Crum. Somebody asked me to play with it and see if it worked OK. I did, it does, and I'd want another if it broke. Hoping a call to Avery will shed some more light. Sorry that I don't have more info. v/r,dr]

 

[rv7charlie]

That product used to be sold by one of the tool vendors (can't remember which one). Haven't seen it advertised lately, but haven't been looking.

I made one out of 1" water pipe, caps, & a 'T' fitting that I had lying around. I had access to a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender & used that to make the long tube. Kinda ugly, but functional. With mine, the cable just loops under the axle next to the brake assy.

I suspect that the U-bolt reference you're seeing is for a different jacking system. That one uses a U-bolt (typically) clamping a short piece of angle to the gear leg & the floor jack acts on the angle/U-bolt to lift the leg. Downside is that the leg fairing must be removed & you're clamping on the powder coated leg.

There is a 3rd option that's relatively safe but looks like it isn't. With the plane stable on a level surface, the wheel nut is removed, a steel bar (long enough to reach from the brake area, out past the end of the axle about a foot) is inserted into the axle and the floor jack lifts the end of the bar. The wheel is slid off the axle onto the bar, and a wood chock is placed under the axle. The axle is lowered onto the chock, jack is removed, and wheel/bar removed from axle.

Charlie

 

[RVbySDI]

I bought mine from Avery Tools several years ago. If they still sell them you might want to contact them now since they have made the announcement they are closing up shop soon.

 

[RVbySDI]

There is a 3rd option that's relatively safe but looks like it isn't. With the plane stable on a level surface, the wheel nut is removed, a steel bar (long enough to reach from the brake area, out past the end of the axle about a foot) is inserted into the axle and the floor jack lifts the end of the bar. The wheel is slid off the axle onto the bar, and a wood chock is placed under the axle. The axle is lowered onto the chock, jack is removed, and wheel/bar removed from axle.

Here is a link to this style of jack:
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=561-1

 

[RV Wannabe]

That product used to be sold by one of the tool vendors (can't remember which one). Haven't seen it advertised lately, but haven't been looking.
Thanks, I'll do some googling.

I made one out of 1" water pipe, caps, & a 'T' fitting that I had lying around. I had access to a Harbor Freight hydraulic pipe bender & used that to make the long tube. Kinda ugly, but functional. With mine, the cable just loops under the axle next to the brake assy.
Maybe this will be my excuse to learn to weld. I would likely build it out of square stock if I built something. Just wondered if it was commercially available. Time is less available lately.

I suspect that the U-bolt reference you're seeing is for a different jacking system. That one uses a U-bolt (typically) clamping a short piece of angle to the gear leg & the floor jack acts on the angle/U-bolt to lift the leg. Downside is that the leg fairing must be removed & you're clamping on the powder coated leg.
the "U" bolt was referred to this system as something to install permanently, but is just there to ensure the cable will not slip off the axel.I read some say it is not necessary, and likely agree, but I have not seen this system in use. I would love to see a photo of the cable at the axle. Most photos I see have a tire, or something blocking a clear view. I really like DR's 2x axle block safety system. With the hole the axle looks like it can't accidentally fall off in any direction. I will make one for my current wing jacking/back push up/ whatever system I am currently doing.

There is a 3rd option that's relatively safe but looks like it isn't. With the plane stable on a level surface, the wheel nut is removed, a steel bar (long enough to reach from the brake area, out past the end of the axle about a foot) is inserted into the axle and the floor jack lifts the end of the bar. The wheel is slid off the axle onto the bar, and a wood chock is placed under the axle. The axle is lowered onto the chock, jack is removed, and wheel/bar removed from axle.
I believe this is the Avery system. Looks ok, but now that I have seen DR's axle block I prefer the cable sling idea.

Charlie

Thanks for the info.
Mark

I would still love to see a clear photo of the cable on the axle.

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Thanks for the info.
Mark

I would still love to see a clear photo of the cable on the axle.

Mark, you are probably referring to comments accompanying a photo I posted of my home-made version (welded square tubing) of this jack. The u-bolt is clamped to the gear leg inboard of the wheel pant bracket, and is sized to be just large enough to go around the leg (1" ?). Nothing exotic, it just keeps the cable from sliding up the leg if the plane gets jostled. I leave the u-bolt on the gear all the time, it fits inside the wheel pant.

 

[rv7charlie]

Here is a link to this style of jack:
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=561-1

Note that if you have a small floor jack (instead of the bottle jack), you can just use the bar without the fancy welded offset.

Just go buy a bar the right diameter & long enough to do the job; done.

Charlie

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Note that if you have a small floor jack (instead of the bottle jack), you can just use the bar without the fancy welded offset.

Just go buy a bar the right diameter & long enough to do the job; done.

Charlie

I used the commercial version of the "bar" style of jack for several years and it works nicely, however, I like how I can spin the tire and set tension on the bearings with the setup in my photo above. But the bar travels nicely.

 

[RV Wannabe]

Mark, you are probably referring to comments accompanying a photo I posted of my home-made version (welded square tubing) of this jack. The u-bolt is clamped to the gear leg inboard of the wheel pant bracket, and is sized to be just large enough to go around the leg (1" ?). Nothing exotic, it just keeps the cable from sliding up the leg if the plane gets jostled. I leave the u-bolt on the gear all the time, it fits inside the wheel pant.

Yes, this is what I saw in my forum search. I like this concept for reasons you mentioned, plus the ability to use DR's axle block compared to the Avery, or bar. Although I agree the bar will travel nicely.

If I can't find something commercially available (DR's looks kinda store bought) I might "steal" your design. Hope you don't mind

Mark

 

[rv7charlie]

I used the commercial version of the "bar" style of jack for several years and it works nicely, however, I like how I can spin the tire and set tension on the bearings with the setup in my photo above. But the bar travels nicely.

Absolutely right. I'd forgotten about the bearing tension issue; that's likely why I made my homebrew version of the bent arm setup. But the bar trick is a good one to 'keep in your pocket' if away from home without the best selection of tools.

IIRC, to allow torquing the nut while using the straight bar lift, there's a mod out there somewhere that drills out the end of the wheel nut & places the center nutplate on a U shaped strap that can be mounted/dismounted using short screws through the sides of the U, into the sides of the wheel nut. Never tried that mod, though.

Charlie

 

[Sam Buchanan]

Yes, this is what I saw in my forum search. I like this concept for reasons you mentioned, plus the ability to use DR's axle block compared to the Avery, or bar. Although I agree the bar will travel nicely.

If I can't find something commercially available (DR's looks kinda store bought) I might "steal" your design. Hope you don't mind

Mark

I stole the idea for my jack from the "store-bought" one Doug is using.

 

[Steve]

Note that if you have a small floor jack (instead of the bottle jack), you can just use the bar without the fancy welded offset.

Just go buy a bar the right diameter & long enough to do the job; done.

Charlie

What diameter and length did you buy? Did you buy bar stock or tube stock? Just trying to save a trip to Ho Depot.
Thanks

 

[rv7charlie]

Sorry; I don't remember. I just grabbed some scrap out of my collection & used it. Length needs to be about 3 times the length of the axle, so it will go fully into the axle, leave room for the wheel to slide onto, and enough extra length to hang on the cup of the jack. 5/8-3/4" would probably work, but don't quote me.

Don't forget Sam's warning about torquing the axle nut after reassembly. I used to do it by rolling the plane back & forth slightly while using light pressure to torque the nut.

The bent bar method really does make the job easier, if you're willing to spend the time making the bent bar.

Charlie