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prkaye

Well Known Member
For my very small (24 and 26 AWG) wires coming out of my trim servo and indicator, I'd like to crimp on standard red (18-22AWG) terminals by simply stripping the insulation far enough back that I can fold the wire back on itself to privide the required thickness for the crimp.
1) is this an OK technique? If it survives a pull-test, is it OK?
2) is 22AWG more than twice the diameter of 26AWG?

I've read about all the other possible possible connector options for this application, but if I can crimp on standard butt and knife splices for these using the technique I described above, that's what I'd like to do.
 
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A neater way...

... is to use sub-D connectors for groups of small wires. It also insures that when you have to unplug it you will get it plug back together correctly. The pins on a sub-D works well with the small wires.
 
If it makes you feel better the Boeing Standard Wiring Practices Manual includes that very procedure for small gauge wires.
 
For these really small wires....

....I used D sub connectors and pins. I didn't use the connector shells but I did goop the back of the connectors with RTV once the pins were installed and I tied the connector halves together with waxed lacing cord through the mating screw holes.

I have seen some people just use the pins, male on one end and female on the other, with heat shrink sleeve over the connected pair to insulate and support structurally. This has got to be the simplest and lightest for these rinky dinky little wires.

Crimp wires in pins - heat shrink wire to pin - slip heat shrink over wire - make connection - heat shrink over connection.

I'll do it this way next time around.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - 10 hours of phase 1 so far and it's a blast :)
 
crimp and solder

I should have done something while I had this on the bench I would have used a D sub. Now I have the servo monunted in the tail and with the tiny wires and short lead Ill never get a D sub crimper to work. I plan to double the wire and use a standard crimp and solder butt splice with shrink wrap covering. My second choice would be a soldered lap splice with shrink wrap. If your servo is still on the bench a D sub is the easiest way out.
 
If your servo is still on the bench a D sub is the easiest way out.
Click to expand...

Why is DSUB easier than what I propose... folding wires back and crimping red knife splices on the wires? I'll label the wires, so I'm really not worreid about connecting the wires up backwards - this is something I'd triple check if I ever had to do it.
My issue with the DSUB is that I'd have to buy another crimper to attach the pins. Also, I'd much rather not Solder if I don't have to... I'm not very experienced with soldering so for me crimping seems more idiot-proof.
 
prkaye said:
Why is DSUB easier than what I propose.
Click to expand...

I used D-subs...primarily because there is not a lot of room to stuff wires in the elevator. I actually just used the pins and not the shells. I also put heat shrink over each connection.

I did this for a couple of reasons:

1) The wires are tiny...I felt like the heat shrink would provide additional vibration isolation.
2) I was afraid of water getting in the elevator..heat shrinking the wires helps to weather proof them.
 
dsub works great

prkaye said:
Why is DSUB easier than what I propose... folding wires back and crimping red knife splices on the wires? I'll label the wires, so I'm really not worreid about connecting the wires up backwards - this is something I'd triple check if I ever had to do it.
My issue with the DSUB is that I'd have to buy another crimper to attach the pins. Also, I'd much rather not Solder if I don't have to... I'm not very experienced with soldering so for me crimping seems more idiot-proof.
Click to expand...
Dsub pins are probably not easier, but if you have not yet used dsub connections, it is really worth it to get a crimper and some machined pins. They are really great quality, very small, and you will find lots of uses for them.
 
prkaye said:
Why is DSUB easier than what I propose... folding wires back and crimping red knife splices on the wires? I'll label the wires, so I'm really not worreid about connecting the wires up backwards - this is something I'd triple check if I ever had to do it.
My issue with the DSUB is that I'd have to buy another crimper to attach the pins. Also, I'd much rather not Solder if I don't have to... I'm not very experienced with soldering so for me crimping seems more idiot-proof.
Click to expand...

They are smaller and potentially neater in a tight space.
 
My experience level in wiring/electrical is low, but I can say that the Sportair Workshops electrical course discourages doubling back of these small gauge wires for crimping. Better method sounds like the shrink wrapped d-sub pins without the connector shells.
 
Where ever I could use a D-Sub, I did. there are many other places to use the crimper: autopilot servos, ANY panel mounted radios, I used one on my fuel flow sensor, control stick grip wires, ELT remote switch. . .

Stein has a crimper: Daniels AFM8, plus required positioners. Very pricey. I paid $60 bucks for the crimper and $25 for 3 positioners on ebay. give ebay a search for AFM8
 
I happen to be right in the middle of running wires for my trim servos. If I could have a beer with the Ray Allen engineers, I'd want to be sure to ask them about their reasons for using tiny 26 AWG wires on all their products. Even 24-gauge would be an improvement!

Oh, ditto for the people who designed the Bose headset jack. Guess I'll have to invite them to the bar too. :)

mcb
 
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