I'm contemplating the rear seat throttle installation. First, AIUI, I have to remove the 7 nutplates (its a QB fuse) that currently will interfere with the F8114 installation since it has to lie inside the flanges of the arm rest and adjacent ribs. The instructions say that the holes for the rivets that held the nutplates in place can be filled by double flush rivets. I found this explanation:
"Occasionally, an assembly is designed in which two parts or sheets of material must rest against each other free of obstruction that the protruding shop head of a rivet would otherwise prevent from occurring. The designer may call out a "double flush" rivet or series of double flush rivets to deal with such a situation. The following is a generic explanation of a typical double flush riveting procedure. The side of the hole that would normally accept the manufactured head of the rivet is countersunk in the normal fashion. The opposite end of the hole that the shop head of the rivet normally protrudes from is "touch" countersunk. This is normally produced to a depth considerably LESS than a full countersink. The rivet is then squeezed or shot normally. Care must be taken to insure that the shop head swells and completely fills in the "touch" countersink. The excess shop head protruding from the material is then removed with a rivet shaver or blended smooth with the surface using a file or sandpaper or combination of both. In practice, the length of the rivet used in this situation is somewhat shorter than what would normally used because the goal here is to completely fill the "touch" countersink and then remove the excess material."
But this situation is a single thin sheet. What do folk do here actually do here?? Flatten out the dimple, minimally countersink both sides and then use a VERY short rivet? Or rivet the F8114 in place using these rivet holes rather than fasten it with screws and nutplates (which I must admit to being tempted to do..)
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris
"Occasionally, an assembly is designed in which two parts or sheets of material must rest against each other free of obstruction that the protruding shop head of a rivet would otherwise prevent from occurring. The designer may call out a "double flush" rivet or series of double flush rivets to deal with such a situation. The following is a generic explanation of a typical double flush riveting procedure. The side of the hole that would normally accept the manufactured head of the rivet is countersunk in the normal fashion. The opposite end of the hole that the shop head of the rivet normally protrudes from is "touch" countersunk. This is normally produced to a depth considerably LESS than a full countersink. The rivet is then squeezed or shot normally. Care must be taken to insure that the shop head swells and completely fills in the "touch" countersink. The excess shop head protruding from the material is then removed with a rivet shaver or blended smooth with the surface using a file or sandpaper or combination of both. In practice, the length of the rivet used in this situation is somewhat shorter than what would normally used because the goal here is to completely fill the "touch" countersink and then remove the excess material."
But this situation is a single thin sheet. What do folk do here actually do here?? Flatten out the dimple, minimally countersink both sides and then use a VERY short rivet? Or rivet the F8114 in place using these rivet holes rather than fasten it with screws and nutplates (which I must admit to being tempted to do..)
Thanks
Chris
Thanks
Chris