[brian]

I'm replacing the old style (all brass, 3 port) fuel valve on my -6A with the new style valve. I recall from my -7A builder plans (which I no longer have after selling that plane) that the instructions for the new valve involved removing the little pointer tip from the handle and using the handle itself as the pointer.

The problem is that the handle points opposite to the port selected, and I can't remember what the builder manual said to do about that.

It seems I either need to modify the valve in some way (that I don't currently see how), or cross-plumb the valve so the left tank tube is going to the right valve port and vice-versa.

What does the manual say to do about this situation? Or how are people doing it?

thanks,
brian

 

[gasman]

I'm replacing the old style (all brass, 3 port) fuel valve on my -6A with the new style valve. I recall from my -7A builder plans (which I no longer have after selling that plane) that the instructions for the new valve involved removing the little pointer tip from the handle and using the handle itself as the pointer.

The problem is that the handle points opposite to the port selected, and I can't remember what the builder manual said to do about that.

It seems I either need to modify the valve in some way (that I don't currently see how), or cross-plumb the valve so the left tank tube is going to the right valve port and vice-versa.

What does the manual say to do about this situation? Or how are people doing it?

thanks,
brian

Brian, This is one mod that came from Van's that I never did like. I guess someone felt that it would be better if the big handle pointed to the tank markings rather than the little pointer. In doing this it DOES INVOLVE CROSS PLUMBING. A lot of extra work for no benefit.

Install your new valve the same way as your 6 has now. But make it 1/4 turn from tank to tank. That will make shutoff pointing at 4:00 and 8:00 left tank at 10:00 and right tank at 2:00. This is with the SMALL POINTER pointing the location.

Now, if you find that you just can't understand the pointer, then alter it till it is the way that you want. Or you can purchase a nice after market pointer that will fit and point in the correct direction.

Before you install the valve, take it apart so you can see how it works. Back off the pointer screw a few turns and pull up on the pointer to release it from it's taper fit. Then unscrew the nut and lift out the assembly.

Now, remove the screw and slip off the nut with o ring and then the spring. The spring presses the cone into the taper. This is what causes the valve to be tight to turn. Snip one loop off of the spring and bend the end of the spring back in to orig location flat against the top of spring.

Now you will have a valve that will operate smooth as silk. The only fail point on this valve is the o ring, and it can be replaced without removing the valve body from the plumbing.

Enjoy your new "cheap" gas valve..................

 

[sf3543]

Don't change the plumbing but just relabel the detents appropriately. Basically, flip the labeling for left, right and off.

 

[gasman]

Don't change the plumbing but just relabel the detents appropriately. Basically, flip the labeling for left, right and off.

So you would turn the valve to the left for the right tank? And turn it to the right for the left tank?................... I think I see a problem with that. It has something to do with making things standard. This is a fuel valve, not an air vent.

 

[Ironflight]

One easy thing to do is to buy the aftermarket red handle for the Van's valve (Van's sells them). This can be put on to the existing valve and give you a pointer that actually points at the tank that you are using - amazing!

Louise's -6 originally had the valve handle that pointed at the tank, and I REALLY didn't like it - just too non-standard for my tastes - so we changed it to make more sense. For our RV-3 project, we bought the same handle, and the valve is set up for "left is left, right is right, and center (up) is off". Very intuitive.

Paul

 

[sf3543]

"So you would turn the valve to the left for the right tank? And turn it to the right for the left tank?................... I think I see a problem with that. It has something to do with making things standard. This is a fuel valve, not an air vent."

I agree with gasman and Paul's comments about being intuitive; however, as far as I know, there are no "standards" for installing a valve. It must just be properly placarded by the manufacturer. (But, I also believe we should use common sense when we plan and install our systems. If you deviate from the plans, you become the designer.)
So, if ease of installation is the priority, there should not be a problem as long as you can live with it and it is placarded correctly.
If you want intuitive left to right readings, then you would need to switch things around.
Personally, I agree that left is left and right is right is better, so I'd do the work to change it and make it intuitive. That's part of the fun of building, right?

 

[brian]

thanks

Thanks for all the good advice, especially Larry's details and Paul's suggestion to replace the handle later. The whole thing ended up being much less trouble than I'd thought it might be. I'd purchased about $90 worth of -6D AN fittings from ACS before I started it, to make sure I wouldn't end up with the plane down waiting for parts.

It ended up being nearly a drop-in fit. I was also able to reuse the fancy mount bracket that was so masterfully crafted by Ralph Kroger. Before I removed everything, it looked like I'd have to make a new mount bracket and plumb in some fuel line extensions. But once I got the bracket and valve removed, it was a perfect replacement fit for the new one. The valve mount studs (pressed into the bracket and underneath the wood veneer on top) were a perfect fit. The left and right fuel lines mated right up like they had for the old one. The center outlet line (now coming straight out of the bottom of the valve, instead of from a 90 degree elbow from the top center of the old valve) just needed about 3" cut off and a new up-bend to mate with the new valve. Even the 1" or so hole on top of the bracket was a perfect fit.

The orientation worked out even better, too. I think some planes have the valve mounted at a rotated angle, like the 4 and 8 o'clock mentioned by Larry, but Ralph had installed this valve perpendicular to the spar, so that the left tank was fwd and right tank was right, and off was to the left. With the different way the new valve ports are oriented, I now have the little pointer pointing left for left tank, right for right tank, and fwd/aft for off - perfect. I'll probably follow Paul's advice and get the replacement handle, but what I have now is great.

While it would be a bit more trouble to cross-plumb a plane under construction, modifying an existing setup to use the handle as pointer would have been a LOT more work - either replace the lines or plumb in several more fittings in each line to add extensions to the existing lines. So, I quickly ruled that option out, especially once I saw how well everything mated up to the new valve, and I just went with using the little pointer. Sure glad I did, especially now knowing that I can get a replacement handle if I decide I don't want to use the little pointer.

Thanks for all the advice!

brian