Geico266

Well Known Member
I'm looking into setting up a pneumatic squeezer for the shop. I'm looking at the Avery squeezer and foot control. Any other sets ups I should look at? Is the foot control a good idea? How about the bench set up? Is a air squeezer needed for a -12 or am I just a weenie? ;)

If you have a squeezer you would like to sell PM me.

Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 
You don't need one, you can do it by hand since their are so few solid rivets. However let's not forget that we don't need most of the tools we buy for the level of production we do in our garage/hanger. We buy them because we want more tools than the next guy......
 
...on the other hand, he could be a "weenie"! <grin>
Hey, I'd buy one if I could because you get better and more uniform results with a pneumatic squeezer that you do while holding and squeezing any of the manual ones.

So..."Hey honey, it'll make a better quality and SAFER aircraft!" Hint: only use this approach for the expensive tools or you could wear it out prematurely.
 
Pneumatic Setup

I use my pneumatic squeezer in a bench mount for small assemblies-great for installing nutplates, etc. I use it handheld for everything else.

I thought about buying a foot control but didn't-and don't miss it.

Mike
 
I am sure that an adjustable set is a wonderful addition to a squeezer, but this old geezer has just completed nine airplanes without that option. With exactly three AN washers, one thick and two thin, I can quickly set up for any situation. After a short while you just know which washers and sets will be required. When set, it never changes.
Although I do like this tool I only use it for dimples when there is no other practical method. It is great for dimpling ribs but when it comes to skins it is hard to beat the old C-frame for making crisp dimples.
 
You can't miss what you never had

I use my pneumatic squeezer in a bench mount for small assemblies-great for installing nutplates, etc. I use it handheld for everything else.

I thought about buying a foot control but didn't-and don't miss it.

Mike

I would definitely miss mine, although it's not a "must have". It sure is nice to have both hands free to stabilize the parts you're working on.
 
Weenie?

As an older guy, I am finding the effort to set the larger solid rivets in the -12 to be rather difficult with my Avery hand squeezer, and because of the struggle, the results are not as uniform as I would like. So, I am considering buying a pneumatic which can use my existing yoke and sets, and then selling it after the build. There would be a few bucks lost in selling a used squeezer, but it seems a small price to pay considering the benefit. Anyone have thoughts on this strategy?
Tony
 
As an older guy, I am finding the effort to set the larger solid rivets in the -12 to be rather difficult with my Avery hand squeezer, and because of the struggle, the results are not as uniform as I would like. So, I am considering buying a pneumatic which can use my existing yoke and sets, and then selling it after the build.
Strangely, even the pneumatic may have trouble with the longer AD4 rivets. Since it develops its full power only at the end of the stroke, it may not have enough power to get the rivet started. Several people have found they have to squeeze AD4 rivets in two passes - first partially to get them started and then, after readjusting the squeezer, a second time to finish them. Pain in the in the you know what.

A slightly different idea: get a Cleaveland Main Squeeze. It has significant mechanical advantage which makes setting even AD4 rivets pretty easy. It's my weapon of choice most of the time.
 
Last edited:
Cleveland Main Squeeze

I also bought a Cleveland Main Squeeze because I am a skinny old man and those 1/8 solid rivets were too hard for me to squeeze, especially those in awkward positions. It cost less than a new pneumatic squeezer and is quiet and you have more control over the squeezing action. And there is not much chance of squashing your finger in the hand operated one. The Cleveland Main Squeeze requires about half of the effort of the other hand operated squeezer that I borrowed.
Joe
 
Larry

I use my pneumatic squeezer in a bench mount for small assemblies-great for installing nutplates, etc. I use it handheld for everything else.

I thought about buying a foot control but didn't-and don't miss it.

Mike

There are those among us that can afford all the bells and whistles of tooldum. And even find most of the tools usefull. I picked up a bench mount and pneumatic foot control as well. I use them often for riveting smaller parts. The foot control frees up both of my hands for safer more accurate rivets. I have mine screwed to the edge of my bench top. Two bolts attach the squeezer to the bracket. A little practice and you can opperate the sqeezer with fine pedal dexterity. And it's easy(er)!
regards
 
Last edited:
Decison made...

After reading the replies to my post, I seriously considered the Main Squeeze, but there is no logic in having two awkward hand squeezers. The Main Squeeze gets its power by simple having a much longer throw on the handles. You don't get something for nothing, you have to compromise on something to get additional leverage. Part of the problem of hand squeezing is the awkwardness of getting straight onto the rivet with those handles spread apart, expecially difficult on complicated parts. The Main Squeeze costs $245 without yoke, and the pnuematic is on sale right now for $435 without yoke. That is certainly a good bit more cash, but if it works as expected, the saving in time and ruined parts will make it worth it. This project is supposed to be fun, and I want to make setting those 1/8" rivets something to look forward to!
My pneumatic is on order.
Tony
 
The usefulness of some tools far outweighs the total cost of ownership. I've tried to buy many of my tools used (drdt2, pneumatic squeezer, 3x rivet gun). I'll take care of them, get good use out of them, and I'm positive I can sell them for what I bought them for.

Total cost of ownership, practically nothing.
 
This project is supposed to be fun, and I want to make setting those 1/8" rivets something to look forward to!
My pneumatic is on order.
Tony

In a foot valve operated pneumatic squeezer, the internal mechs get changed out for different hardware.
A different spring and and a different length valve push rod (among a few other things) The time it takes
to change out the fittings (2 minutes?), I just operate the squeezer with the foot valve fittings
in place and operate the squeezer with the foot valve full time...works big time for me:)
 
No weenie!!

After reading the replies to my post, I seriously considered the Main Squeeze, but there is no logic in having two awkward hand squeezers. The Main Squeeze gets its power by simple having a much longer throw on the handles. You don't get something for nothing, you have to compromise on something to get additional leverage. Part of the problem of hand squeezing is the awkwardness of getting straight onto the rivet with those handles spread apart, expecially difficult on complicated parts. The Main Squeeze costs $245 without yoke, and the pnuematic is on sale right now for $435 without yoke. That is certainly a good bit more cash, but if it works as expected, the saving in time and ruined parts will make it worth it. This project is supposed to be fun, and I want to make setting those 1/8" rivets something to look forward to!
My pneumatic is on order.
Tony

Go for it Tony! I won't be far behind you with my Pneumatic Squeezer order...and I would never suggest you're a weenie (refer back to early post) <grin> unless, of course, a future topic is just too much fun to resist!
Let us know which one you order and how you like it!
Thanks and Best Regards,
Dave.
 
After reading the replies to my post, I seriously considered the Main Squeeze, but there is no logic in having two awkward hand squeezers. The Main Squeeze gets its power by simple having a much longer throw on the handles. You don't get something for nothing, you have to compromise on something to get additional leverage. Part of the problem of hand squeezing is the awkwardness of getting straight onto the rivet with those handles spread apart, expecially difficult on complicated parts. The Main Squeeze costs $245 without yoke, and the pnuematic is on sale right now for $435 without yoke. That is certainly a good bit more cash, but if it works as expected, the saving in time and ruined parts will make it worth it. This project is supposed to be fun, and I want to make setting those 1/8" rivets something to look forward to!
My pneumatic is on order.
Tony

hey, i think you don't understand how the main squeeze works, it is based on a cam angle on the leverage, not increased throw of the arm. sounds like it doesn't matter much as you are buying the pneumatic, but maybe someone else was looking at this.
 
Main Squeeze mechanical advantage is due to a CAM

...The Main Squeeze gets its power by simple having a much longer throw on the handles... This project is supposed to be fun, and I want to make setting those 1/8" rivets something to look forward to!
My pneumatic is on order.
Tony

Tony, your logic is good in that a pneumatic squeezer can be had for a little more than the Main Squeeze. However, as "Danny7" pointed out, the Main Squeeze has a cam action that increases the squeezing force as the handles are brought together. It is far superior and worth the money when compared to other manual squeezers. If you had ever used one, you would know it's not a typical squeezer.

I have a Main Squeeze and a used pneumatic squeezer and I don't think I'm being extravagant. I use both, because sometimes using the pneumatic for just 2 or three rivets is a hassle. The pneumatic really shines when you're setting a bunch of rivets all in a row and want them to be consistently set.

Sounds like you made a logical decision, and I don't think you can go wrong with a pneumatic. But I don't think I could get by with only a pneumatic squeezer. Since you already have an Avery squeezer, it makes good sense to buy the pneumatic one. My used pneumatic came with two yokes and they are interchangeable with the two I already had for the Main Squeeze. Looks like you ordered over a month ago, but I hope your yokes interchange between the two squeezers. On the RV-12 this may not be a problem.

The "Main" point of this post was to set the record straight as to the statement that the Main Squeeze gets its advantage from the long handles. It doesn't.

Hope this helps...somebody.
 
Last edited:
I have one - love it.

I have a bench mount and a foot control pedal as well - I really like it as stated in earlier posts for keep both hand free - it's definitely faster than holding it - IMO.

Ill try to scrounge some pics and post here or on my site.:D
 
OK, guys, but don't they all work with a cam

I will stand corrected about the cam action of the main squeeze, but only because I have not examined the mechanicals. In looking at the video of one being used at a display at OSH, it appeared as though the handles were fairly short but had to open up to a lot bigger angle than my Avery. If the handles have to open up to a big angle (to operate a cam) then that says "leverage" to me, the same as longer handles. That is where I thought the additional leverage came from, not from longer handles.
In any case, I like my Avery hand squeezer for the small rivets and for dimpling. I just do not have the strength to set a bunch of the 1/8 rivets.

I bought the pneumatic and tried it using the yoke that interchanged from my Avery. I also had orginally intended to use shims with the sets and did not get the adjustable set holder. This proved to be a lot of trouble I then ordered a flange yoke and an adjustable set holder. Now everything works very well and the flange yoke allows me to have a choice on which side of something I want the factory head. The pneumatic is overkill for a -12 but I am glad I have it, and will probably make somebody a good deal on it when I finish my plane.
Tony
 
Last edited: