flickroll

flickroll

Well Known Member
I have seen mixed reviews on the Decal Pro. Some guys hate it and never get it to work. Some guys get it to produce great results but it appears there is a somewhat steep learning curve for good results. Question: what software is being used to produce the image for the decals? I think I'll try the device (they have a money back guarantee) and am curious about which software product works well with the device. Thanks
 
Any software that produces text or graphics will work, from MS Word to Adobe Photoshop, and everything in between. The product is more like a "procedure" than a device, although it does include a laminating machine.

I'm working with it right now to learn how to get the best results, and although I will say it's not dirt-simple, if you follow the instructions precisely, it does work well. In a couple of days, I'll have a more detailed report on the process and my results.
 
Jim,

The trick is the printer, not the software. I bought an HP Laserjet 1022 printer to print my images and it worked great.

FWIW, I did the images in MS Visio but could have used PowerPoint, Word, Excel, or whatever.
 
Last edited:
It Can Give Great Results

I used Word to create labels.

I had mixed results however in getting all of the text to survive the water bath part of the process intact.

I left a message on the company's help email and received a phone call almost immediately from the owner - on a Sunday - and from his vacation!

He walked me through the various tricks. The main one being to include a wide border frame around the graphic or text. This doesn't have to be transferred to the surface but it provides a seal that prevents water from getting in to the graphic from the edges and breaking it up on the transfer film. I hadn't included this feature on my text and was the reason why I was getting random breakups.

Jim Sharkey
 
Basically what you do is print your labels using a laser printer (not inkjet). Thus you can use any program that you are comfortable with that will give you the text font you like. Microsoft Word, etc.

I used Microsoft Publisher because I find it easy to move things around. Since my toggle switches are in clusters, I made some of my labels in groups which were easier to line up.

Hey guys we're building airplanes. There are learning curves in everything. There are lots of samples in the kit. I got the procedures down with some of the samples, then did a sample with one of my labels, then I was on my way. I had one phone question and got a quick answer. Make a mistake! Do it over! Easy.

I try to post a photo tomorrow. Really looks like I knew what I was doing.

Ken
 
Not that hard

flickroll said:
I have seen mixed reviews on the Decal Pro. Some guys hate it and never get it to work. Some guys get it to produce great results but it appears there is a somewhat steep learning curve for good results. Question: what software is being used to produce the image for the decals? I think I'll try the device (they have a money back guarantee) and am curious about which software product works well with the device. Thanks
Click to expand...

I've used many different lettering techniques in the past.
Decal pro is actually pretty simple.
Follow the directions EXACTLY and after a couple of tries, you should have it down pat. The big thing is, the paper must be ABSOLUTELY dry before you try to fuse it. Doesn't hurt to watch the videos on the web site, either.

I got a cheap laser printer from Ebay for about $40 with free shipping. Worked like a charm. You can use any program that prints to do the graphics.I did mine with OpenOffice calc (Excel clone) as it made it easy to line up "columns" of text with borders.

It was tedious, but did produce good results for my panel. I estimate I "redid" about 20% of the labels due to my inability to place them correctly. :)

If I were to do it over again, I have a technique for placing the graphics perfectly (smacks head), but it came to me the day after I declared the job finished. :) :)

YMMV
 
Technique

sjjonesnz said:
Would you care to share it with us?? ;)
Click to expand...

Well. When I do "peel and stick letters", I always place them first, using a pencil line at the top and a "hinge" of transparent tape across the top. Once they are perfectly placed, I flip the letters up, then peel them, and flip them back down and smooth them out. Pefect alignment.

The same technique could be used with these graphics.

IE, create the graphic, let it dry and then place it where you want it. Use the tape along one edge. Flip it back and spritz with adhesive, flip it down and do the transfer.

It's just a thought, but one I am going to try on my next panel lettering job.

YMMV
 
Joe,

That's a great idea, I'll have to use it.


Craig,

I did some experimentation with DecalPro back in October of 2006. It took some practice, but eventually I got the process down. I worked with Frank, the owner of DecalPro, when I was having some problems, and he modified his instructions, based upon some of the things that were giving me a problem. As stated before, the key is getting the paper dry, using a border to protect the image during the water bath, and proper technique when spraying on the adhesive and when peeling back the carrier.

Although this information might be a little dated, my results are on my website at http://www.trv7.com. Click on "Extra Credit", then "Instrument Panel Labels", then "Decal Pro Labels".

Tracy.
 
Here is a section of my panel using Decal Pro

Ken

Panel
 
Simple but Clear and Elegant

Here is an example of the ones that I got to work.
decalproad1.jpg


As for positioning the method suggested with the system is to cut a window slightly bigger than the graphic in a piece of thin plastic film, a sample is supplied with the kit by the way, and then adhere the prepared graphic over the window. The window frame/graphic assembly can then be placed and easily maneuvered over the surface with out the adhesive coming into contact with the surface. Once you are happy with the position all you have to do is push the graphic the few thousands of an inch through the window and onto the surface. Unfortunately I only discovered this once I was finished:rolleyes:.

Jim Sharkey
 
I am having a REALLY hard time doing lettering. When I put the mylar/paper in water, the mylar come off easy enough, but the lettering is staying on the paper. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I am doing white letters since I have a black panel.
 
Not well fused

flickroll said:
I am having a REALLY hard time doing lettering. When I put the mylar/paper in water, the mylar come off easy enough, but the lettering is staying on the paper. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I am doing white letters since I have a black panel.
Click to expand...

This is a symptom of not fusing the letters to the carrier plastic.
I had a few of these until I got into the habit of always:

1. Drying the printed paper THOROUGHLY before applying the carrier, using a heat gun. Get that paper nice and hot (and dry).
2. Cleaning the mylar carrier THOROUGHLY using the alcohol.
3. Passing through the laminator at least twice (If I didn't like how it looked, it might get a third pass.

Just how I did it. YMMV.
 
Well.....

I am using a 1500w heat gun on high setting. It is a commercial gun used to remove paint. I bought it to de-shaft golf clubs so I know it gets plenty hot. I am using alcohol to clean the mylar. I also clean the paper with alcohol as directed in the instructions. I have run it through the machine as many a 4 times. The letters ain't sticking. I am at a high level of frustration..... :confused:
 
flickroll said:
I am having a REALLY hard time doing lettering. When I put the mylar/paper in water, the mylar come off easy enough, but the lettering is staying on the paper. Any suggestions on how to fix this? I am doing white letters since I have a black panel.
Click to expand...

Are you using the light blue paper supplied with the kit - and if so are you printing the graphic on the "milky" side of the paper. I believe that this is a starch like surface that you print on which then dissolves in the water to release the graphic.

It's a neat but Goldilocks like process that relies on things sticking at the various stages "just enough" - not to much and not too little. Once you get the process under control it can produce great results - as good as silk screening.

Jim Sharkey
 
Jim, another option is to spray the adhesive on the panel instead of on the mylar. Then after it dries clean the adhesive off with a solvent. Be sure to test how the solvent affects your paint first.

Ken
 
jsharkey said:
Are you using the light blue paper supplied with the kit - and if so are you printing the graphic on the "milky" side of the paper. I believe that this is a starch like surface that you print on which then dissolves in the water to release the graphic.

It's a neat but Goldilocks like process that relies on things sticking at the various stages "just enough" - not to much and not too little. Once you get the process under control it can produce great results - as good as silk screening.

Jim Sharkey
Click to expand...

Yes the correct side of the paper is being used....the mylar slides off the paper easily enough, with a FEW letters. The rest of the lettering is staying on the paper. I have a call and an email in to the proprietor of the business but I think he's out of town this weekend. I can tell that if I ever figure this out it will be really nice.....BIG if.....
 
Hmm.

Have you tried cold water? It sounds like you are almost there, just something is disturbing the bond.

I did not use white at all and it may be different. I used gold and blue for my lettering.

Leave a good border, use cold water and let the item sit until the mylar falls away from the paper.

You'll get it. It's frustrating I know.

Best of luck.
 
I'm FINALLY getting consistent results :) Been through a pack of paper and a LOT of white film. For me the secret: CLEAN!! Use 91% alcohol to clean before each step, even when the directions don't say to. For example I cleaned the image that came out of the Laser Jet with alcohol before applying the foil even though this was not listed as a step. Also, because it's cold and dry here, static electricity has been a problem. After cleaning and wiping the mylar with a paper towel, the mylar builds up a LOT of static electricity. I THINK the static electricity may have been preventing a good bond. I have been grounding myself to dissipate the static electricity (ouch!) before applying the mylar carrier. Also, I have found that slightly warm water seems to do better than cold water to release the image. In any event, it's working now and producing great results. Looks just like a silkscreen job, but you can change it if you don't like it. A little acetone will remove the decals no problem, even after they are set up. Alcohol requires more elbow grease to get the decal off, and in the process of rubbing the flat painted surface below the decal, the panel gets a slight gloss due to the 'buffing' (I've been practicing on an old panel). With the acetone, one light wipe and it's gone.

This is a very nice product/process once you figure it out. Takes a LOT of patience.....

Finally a happy camper
 
Here are some of the results using Decal Pro.
I am still working on refining the application method.
As with all other decal methods, applying the text or graphic in perfect alignment with corresponding holes has proofen to be the most difficult part.
Frank from Puslar, the company that produces the kit has been most helpful
even answering emails on Sunday.

IMG_0550.JPG


IMG_0553.JPG


IMG_0554.JPG
 
Last edited:
Add the holes

What helped me was adding a circle to the decal that matches the hole pattern. This way you line up the holes and the labels will line up. The little bit of decal material left on the hole edges can be lifted with tape or just left t be covered up by the switch hardware. I ended up with some labels askew when I was trying to redo just two that were side by side on my circuit breaker panel. Here is a picture of my latest work, all done the first try, I must be learning something. It takes time to get the hang of it but very much worth the effort.

33voytf.jpg


N427EF said:
Here are some of the results using Decal Pro.
I am still working on refining the application method.
As with all other decal methods, applying the text or graphic in perfect alignment with corresponding holes has proofen to be the most difficult part.
Frank from Puslar, the company that produces the kit has been most helpful
even answering emails on Sunday.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.