pmccoy

pmccoy

Well Known Member
I bought a Decal Pro kit for making dry-transfers. I plan to use it for labeling on my panel.

I was wondering if those who have gone before me have any ideas on how to clear coat the results to improve the resistance to scratches? The dry transfers hold up ok to fingers or general rubbing, but anything with and edge (fingernails) goes right through the material and causes a nasty scratch.

So, is a clear coat the way to go? If so, what brand did you use and was there any special methods for application.

Of course the last question would be, how have your labels held up after using clear coat?
 
It might be worth taking a look at the type of clearcoat they use on motorcycle helmets. The helment graphics are decals with a clearcoat that is tough as nails...
 
Similar

Peter,
I used decals and clear coat on the panel labels for my '8.

Not exactly the same though. I made decals used a laser printer on a sheet of lacquer decal paper (think good ole plastic airplane decals). So now you have a lacquer based decal on water soluble paper with the lettering in laser toner.

I sprayed the panel with PPG 2021 clear. This is a standard automotive clear. The results were very good.

Wish I could tell you how the dry transfers will act. The only way to really know is to make a test piece.

I know that Stein uses a "similar" approach so maybe he can tell you more.
 
Rust-Oleum

I used rustoleum "painter's touch Ultra Cover, with a matte finish. My panel is an enamel the color of the powder coated parts and I did a test of this and one other clear with a satin finish. I thought the rustoleum product looked better. The other seemed to darken the base color a bit. I also used Decal Pro for my labels.

Like most of the clear coats, this one is non-yellowing and UV resistant. I really like how the matte finish turns out, absolutely no reflections from the surface.

2cfukh5.jpg
 
I used rustoleum "painter's touch Ultra Cover, with a matte finish. My panel is an enamel the color of the powder coated parts and I did a test of this and one other clear with a satin finish. I thought the rustoleum product looked better. The other seemed to darken the base color a bit. I also used Decal Pro for my labels.

Like most of the clear coats, this one is non-yellowing and UV resistant. I really like how the matte finish turns out, absolutely no reflections from the surface.
Click to expand...

Mike- how have they held up over time? Have you had any scratches?
 
We use a standard PPG clearcoat on all the panels. Typically we have a bit of flattner added to it in order to end up with a satin/semi-gloss finish that isn't too shiny. We don't use the decalpro system because it was a royal pain in the rear for the volume that we do. That being said, all of the pro panel shops do use decalse, just a much more industrious type that is printed on a fairly expensive printer. We and our colleagues are able to print white labels directly (or metallics or whatever).

Cheers,
Stein
 
Not flying

I am not flying but I have handled my CB panel a lot, putting it in and out and taking it to an EAA chapter meeting, the clear seems to be very hard.

pmccoy said:
Mike- how have they held up over time? Have you had any scratches?
Click to expand...
 
I don't want to highjack the thread, but since DECAL PRO threads are rare, I would like to place my question here.

I can't get the Mylar foil stick to the custom graphics. I followed the instructions and the stock graphic went perfect, yesterday. But this evening...nothing. Didn't stick at all. Neither a letter got stick to the Mylar foil.

I just wrote an email to decal pro customer service. Do you have any idea?

Thanks.
Camillo
 
I don't want to highjack the thread, but since DECAL PRO threads are rare, I would like to place my question here.

I can't get the Mylar foil stick to the custom graphics. I followed the instructions and the stock graphic went perfect, yesterday. But this evening...nothing. Didn't stick at all. Neither a letter got stick to the Mylar foil.

I just wrote an email to decal pro customer service. Do you have any idea?

Thanks.
Camillo
Click to expand...

Camillo-

One of the issues I had was getting my laser printer set properly. I had to adjust the paper stock to 'Heavy Card Stock', and I adjusted the toner to max density. After that, I had much better results with the transfer being able to stick. These were settings in the menu of my printer, which I had never touched before this project. For me, following all the steps after getting the image on the special paper was also working just fine on the samples, but until I made the changes above, my own graphics and text would not work. I kept loosing parts of text and borders.
 
mostly successful

Camillo,

I've had good success with this system but did run into a few problems.
I found that each foil reacts a little different to the process.
I used black, blue, silver and gold with great results.
Using the white foil all the letters fell off the mylar. The dipping water looked like alphabet soup.
The biggest problem by far has been the application process, nothing to do with Decal Pro. Applying any kind of decal or lettering in a straight and aligned fashion is a challenge.
Directing your question to Decal Pro will result in a prompt answer.

IMG_0544.JPG


IMG_0559.JPG
 
Thanks to both.
Actually, white foil sticks very well on graphic.
Issue is that Mylar doesn't stick at all.
I guess - maybe - laminator was not so hot (20' and not 30'). I have no other idea.
The other question is that I used denaturated alcohol for polishing both Mylar and graphic. Instructions say to use "rubbing alcohol", but I have no idea what "rubbing" alcohol is...

Edit: "rubbing alcohol" seems to be isopropilic alcohol, which is sold in some electronics store and in pharmacies. I doubt that this is the reason for the Mylar not sticking, but I will buy it just to be sure.
 
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white foil

Camillo,
This is exactly what I was refering to.
The white foil does adhere to the graphic very well but not to the Mylar.
Try another foil just to see if the problem persists.
At least you will be able to narrow down the source of the problem.
The results are worth the effort.
Good Luck
 
Ernst,
I just tried again. This time with red foil. Same result: Mylar carrier foil does not stick at all.

So, I made with the SAME recycled Mylar a test with stock graphics: it goes. And it goes even if I didn't use the gun to dry it and even if I didn't polished them with alcohol. Crazy.

I made a third test with red foil and again stock graphic. The same. It goes.

So, metallic foil and Mylar carrier foil is the same. Graphic is different. But I think graphic is not the difference. Difference may be that I did not make a 1/4'' border outside my image. Actually, I made a 1/32'' border. I looked very close to the stock graphic, once carrier Mylar was applied, and saw that Mylar tends to unstick besides the outside huge border. So, it seems that border is actually necessary to allow the Mylar carrier to stick.

I will print my graphic with wider borders and try again. If it doesn't work, I will have no other idea to explain why it doesn't.

Edit: it was the 1/4 border missing to make the problem. Now it goes great! Already applied a few tags on my breaker panel!
 
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It's the boarder

First, I learned using white first and my impression is the black was easier. The problem with the letters falling off has to do with water getting between the mylar and the paper during the water bath. What I found is if I put a 1/4" black boarder around the label and made sure this had a good seal with the mylar this solved the lost letter issues. You may need to run the label though the laminator with a paper towel over it after trimming the edges just prior to the water bath. I found the mylar would separate some while handling the label. Run it though the laminator twice with a paper towel over the label and board.

During the water bath if you watch you can see the letters separate from the paper, it is easier to see with the white letters since a small shadow is cast. The paper needs to react with the water so the letters will release from the paper before the mylar, it is essentially a differential in adhesion that makes the letters stay on the mylar. If there is a way for water to get between the mylar and the paper (seal broken in boarder) then some of the letters will release from both the paper and mylar.

Of course call Decal Pro but this is what I found worked for me. My last set of switch labels all came out perfect on the first try. I learned a a lot doing my circuit breaker panel, and doing at least 3 at a time helps with the alignment. I also make a circle slightly smaller than the hole opening as part of the label, this allowed me to line things up with the holes, the hole part of the label will come up when you pull the mylar off, if some sticks to the edge of the hole in the panel it will be covered by the hardware or you can try to pick it up with some tape.

Happy Holiday.
 
Ernst-

In your photos, you have applied a transfer directly on the knobs. Did you spray clear coat after this? How did it work?

I like the look. I was thinking of lettering on the panel just above the knobs. However, I like your approach better.
 
Not to steal the tread but, is there a easer way to make graphics that look as nice as the decal pro? maybe a label maker? I watched the video on decal pros web site and it looks like it takes a wile and lots of steps, thoes of you using the system once you get the lerning curve down is it easy? How do I know if I have a photo-static copier? thanks Matt
 
Not to steal the tread but, is there a easer way to make graphics that look as nice as the decal pro? maybe a label maker? I watched the video on decal pros web site and it looks like it takes a wile and lots of steps, thoes of you using the system once you get the lerning curve down is it easy? How do I know if I have a photo-static copier? thanks Matt
Click to expand...

Yes, after you do a few of the sample transfers the process isn't to bad. Seems like a lot of steps at first, but they go quick.
- design and print graphic on special card stock paper. Must be done on a 'Toner' based laser printer. Also, make a large border around graphic
- Shoot with heat gun to remove moisture
- Cut foil to size and place over graphic on carrier board
- Run through laminator two times
- Cover and peel with blue tape to remove extra foil
- Clean graphic and mylar with rubbing alcohol
- Laminate mylar over graphic (run through twice)
- Drop in water bath to remove paper
- Trim away border, inspect to make sure all type is there (no drop offs)
- Spay with glue
- Transfer to panel
- Spray with clear coat
 
You could just order a sheet of decals in any color/foil/metallic, etc.. from any number of shops for about $25, and then stick with 3 simple steps. 1) Drop in the water to remove the decal. 2) Apply it to the panel. 3) Spray the panel with clearcoat (either flat, satin or gloss).

Cheers,
Stein
 
Stein:

I never could get the DecalPro system to work properly and Im not satisfied with my home labeling job using a Brother machine (tape edges are too noticeable). I would like to try the water release decal route, especially if it would really only cost me $25. Can you drop a few names of shops to contact - Im in California if you happen to know anyone out this way.

Also, what should I expect to supply them with in order to get what I want - I assume some sort of electronic file with everything layed out like I want it with respect to lines, fonts and scale? Im guessing I would do this by printing out what I want on an acetate sheet, cutting out the pieces, and revise as necessary through a little bit of trial and error fitting on the panel?

thanks

erich
 
The transfer was made directly to the knobs and they are not yet clear coated.
I labeled the panel too, I guess I am guilty of "uber labeling".

Everything RVGATor said. The border is absolutely essential.
I use a 10pt. border. Come to think of it I probably missed that with my white labels.
 
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