aarvig

aarvig

Well Known Member
I am ordering my tools and I wanted to know what everyone recommends for a deburring tool since this will obviously be a highly repetitive operation. Thanks in advance.
 
I used a countersink bit with a hexagonal driver in my small electric screwdriver. The Harbor Freight ones don't last very long, so get a decent bit from somewhere else.

greg
 
One of Vans' employees at Arlington told me that they just use Scotchbrite pads. Run one along a rivet line, and it removes any burrs that stick up from the skins. Loads faster than using a per-hole tool. Only a bad idea if you want to have a polished finish on your airplane, 'cause those scotchbrite scratches will be a pain to buff out.
 
+1 on the cordless

Another vote for the hex adapter in a cordless screwdriver (B&D in my case). A quick blip of the switch gives me 1.5 - 2 revs of the bit which is plenty for a hole. Get into a groove and bingo, the job is done.
 
A rosebud countersink/deburring tool chucked up in a cordless drill will give you a perfect debur. Works very well on stainless and plexiglass as well. The "in and out" (aka cogsdill) deburing tool is amazing. Works best on heavier gauge holes. I would stay away from the scotchbrite technique as you will remove the ALCLAD and promote corrosion if not treated and primed in a timely manner. If you do use scotchbrite use blue discs only.


http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,5935.html

http://www.yardstore.com/browse.cfm/4,5647.html
 
Tim Allen was right! More power!

Snowflake said:
One of Vans' employees at Arlington told me that they just use Scotchbrite pads. Run one along a rivet line, and it removes any burrs that stick up from the skins. Loads faster than using a per-hole tool. Only a bad idea if you want to have a polished finish on your airplane, 'cause those ScotchBrite scratches will be a pain to buff out.
Click to expand...

ScotchBrite with a power tool is even easier. See

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=380432&postcount=9

&

http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showpost.php?p=295657&postcount=27

De-burring with the blue colored ScotchBrite discs will not leave scratches like the maroon pads or discs do.

Charlie Kuss
 
One more vote for the hex deburring tool:
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DB04

I use this almost exclusively for deburring rivet holes. I use it by hand or in my cordless drill. It doesn't gouge out the hole unless you press hard. You can also countersink a rivet hole very nicely. If you only have a few holes to countersink, it saves time versus setting up the microstop countersink.

I also have the quick debur tool that came with the Avery's tool kit. I do not use it much. It is too easy to gouge out the rivet holes. But it does come in handy sometimes:
http://www.averytools.com/p-73-speed-deburring-tool.aspx

Also, the edge deburr tool it great for deburring edges and lightening holes, etc.
http://www.cleavelandtoolstore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=DBS33

Happy building!
 
I'm glad someone finally mentioned edge deburring. A scotchbrite wheel is great for polishing edges on thicker parts but can be a pain (literally, if you're not careful) for thin, flexible pieces such as ribs or skins. I personally use the two-edge from Avery but I keep meaning to get the one they refer to as the 'dove-tail' tool; if you slip with the former tool you tend to slice your fingers.

The key, in any case, is to use light pressure. I use the speed tool from Avery without any problem now but it took awhile to get the touch down. Same with the edge deburrers; you are trying to polish off a burr not shave down an edge. Don't try to do it all in one pass.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I went with the speed deburring tool from Avery. It appears light pressure with the intent to polish NOT drill is the key. The tool is affordable and MADE IN THE USA! I'll give it a whirl and report on how well it does.
 
I use the ScotchBrite discs for almost everything

flion said:
I'm glad someone finally mentioned edge de-burring. A ScotchBrite wheel is great for polishing edges on thicker parts but can be a pain (literally, if you're not careful) for thin, flexible pieces such as ribs or skins. I personally use the two-edge from Avery but I keep meaning to get the one they refer to as the 'dove-tail' tool; if you slip with the former tool you tend to slice your fingers.

The key, in any case, is to use light pressure. I use the speed tool from Avery without any problem now but it took awhile to get the touch down. Same with the edge deburrers; you are trying to polish off a burr not shave down an edge. Don't try to do it all in one pass.
Click to expand...

Pat,
I find the right angle die grinders with the 2" or 3" blue ScotchBrite discs great for de-burring the drilled holes AND the edges of parts. There is a special Roloc disc holder which was originally designed to aid in cleaning the thermostat gaskets off of late model Chrysler V8 engines. I find it very handy for de-burring the drilled holes on the inside of rib flanges. The tool is made by Lisle and can be found at most auto parts stores. See

http://www.lislecorp.com/tool_detail.cfm?detail=256

This tool moves the head of the right angle die grinder away from the web/flange of the part being de-burred. It allows you to de-burr the holes in tight areas, like the trailing edges of inboard flanges on flap ribs.
Charlie Kuss
 
The Standard Aircraft Handbook on page 87 states: "Deburring shall not be performed on predrilled holes that are to be subsequently form countersunk." Form countersinking is described as dimpling.
That said, I use a maroon scothbrite pad to go over everything that will be primered.
 
and running lean of peak will destroy your engine....

Another old hangar tale bites the dust. If you use a 3 flute tool in any type of powered device, find a reasonably strong magnifier (like an old phonograph stylus scope) & look at holes before & after deburring. I did, & was somewhat shocked.

My deburring tool of choice for holes is a single flute tool (looks like a cone with a hole drilled sideways through the taper). I wish it was in 135 degree instead of 100 degree; with that the burr could be removed with less tapering of the hole itself. (That's something else that actual best practices documents warn against.)

Charlie
 
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