LAMPSguy

LAMPSguy

Well Known Member
I am building the practice project that looks like a section of an aileron.

I am getting pretty good at deburring most holes, but how do you do an adequate job on the INSIDE of a flange or rib where you can't get a tool?
 
deburring bit

I know what you mean about the "inside holes." They are a pain. However, I've had good luck using the deburring bit that Cleavland sells, chucked up into a cordelss drill, with an extension if needed or my 90 deg drill if it's really tight. Be careful with the 90 though, or any pneumatic drill because they turn very fast and you can countersink if you're not careful.
 
Run some 400 grit sandpaper over it to knock off any burrs and call it good. There are a lot of areas in the build you just can't get a tool into.
 
Seems to me that Van says probably one of the most common errors is deburring TOO much.

I have heard that people are prone to get too aggressive and inadvertently bevel the hole.

I second the 400 grit sandpaper even for holes that aren't within a flange.

Truth be told, all you need to do is make a nice clean "cylinder".

When I deburrred large sheets, I sanded them instead of deburring each and every hole with the deburring tool. It will save GOBS of time and sanity!

:) CJ
 
Sanding is good too..

because there will always be areas that get drilled after the fact that are very tight to get into. I'm more talking about pieces yet to be assembled and riveted when I mentioned tools. It's also true what they say about most people deburing too much. Light touch and a low RPM drill are key with a debur bit, but I think it does a slightly better job than sanding alone when you look at the stuff under a loop. Also you won't be scuffing any alclad off.
 
A Vans engineer told me they use scotchbrite pads for deburring. They just run a scotchbrite pad down the line of holes after drilling. Works the same inside and outside the rib flanges. Don't waste time with a deburring bit, you'll just end up chamfering the hole and that's not what you want.
 
Use a reamer with light pressure and high speed to enlarge the hole and there will be very little burr. Scotch brite the back side and it's done.

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N526JS said:
Check out Cogsdill tools http://www.cogsdill.com/products/deburring/. They deburr both sides of a hole without risk of countersinking. I found a whole set on that big auction site.
Click to expand...

I loved my Cogsdill Burraways...unfortunately, I bent the #40 size (late in the build), but they are *great* tools. a quick in and out and both sides are deburred.

I also used a pancake drill adapter in a few places, one with the threads going all the way through, so I could mount the deburring bit facing back towards the drill...then hold it up against the back side and run the drill backwards...easy as pie. Usually. :)

If all else failed, a little sandpaper and some finger yoga did the trick :)
 
Scotchbrite

Are you using the maroon scotchbrite pads or the small beige wheels?

Also, thanks/sorry to the mods for fixing my title!
 
Great De-burring tool!

LAMPSguy said:
Are you using the maroon ScotchBrite pads or the small beige wheels?

Also, thanks/sorry to the mods for fixing my title!
Click to expand...

Nick,
You should not use maroon [medium] discs for de-burring or final finishing. They are to rough for aluminum. The beige wheels [6", 2" and 1"] are equivilent to the maroon discs. There are also beige discs [coarse] which should only be used on steel/iron. The maroon discs are good for cleaning up rough cut aluminum, like stock cut on a band saw. The maroon discs will leave light scratches in the aluminum.
After preliminary de-burring rough cuts with a maroon disc, finish with a blue [fine] disc, to remove the fine scratches caused by the maroon disc. For de-burring of rivet holes and rib/bulkhead edges, they need only be done with a blue [fine] disc.
To answer your original question, the ultimate tool for de-burring inside of ribs [like the tail of a flap or aileron rib] is a 3" blue disc mounted on a Lisle model 22500. See

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/lis22500.html

Also available from Sears, but over priced

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...ls&sName=Auto Specialty Tools&psid=YAHOOSSP01

This tool is designed to over come the stupidity of Chrysler engineers and the way they designed their newer V6 and V8 engines. Without this tool, you can not clean the old thermostat gasket off of the intake manifold.
Basically, you can also make one, if you already own a standard ScotchBrite Roloc Type R disc holder, like the one linked below.

http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=15410

Simply unscrew the shaft from the disc holder. Buy a 6" long, 1/4" X 20 TPI [NC] bolt and cut the head off of it. Screw it into the disc holder. Now slide a 4.5" section of 1/4" aluminum tubing over the shaft. Mount a 3" blue disc on the holder and mount the tool in your drill. Place one hand on the aluminum tube [prevents your fingers from friction burns from the shaft] and the other on the drill and you can now get into the very tightest of spaces to de-burr. The photos below don't show the tail of a rib, but do show how handy this tool is. If you own a Dodge and work on it yourself, this tool is a MUST!

DeburringwextendedshaftScotchBritedisc1.jpg


DeburringwextendedshaftScotchBritedisc2.jpg


The tool is designed for use with 2" diameter discs, but you can also install 3" discs on it for improved access in very tight spots. I hope this helps you.

Charlie
 
I bought a maroon scotch brite wheel from the paint department at walmart that is actually 2 pieces sandwiched together. It is about 4 inches in diameter. Just put it in a small table top drill press and you can deburr both sides of a flange by slipping the flange in between the two pcs. It worked great.
DSCN0528.jpg
 
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Snowflake said:
A Vans engineer told me they use scotchbrite pads for deburring. They just run a scotchbrite pad down the line of holes after drilling. Works the same inside and outside the rib flanges. Don't waste time with a deburring bit, you'll just end up chamfering the hole and that's not what you want.
Click to expand...

We used to use "sanding sponges" like this over a line of drilled holes when I worked for a major subcontractor. They work great.

2AZD4_AW99
 
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