N130WN

N130WN

Well Known Member
I've heard that many of the high performance acro type flyers upgrade their
cylinder head oil return lines from the chinsey AL tube and rubber sleeve
setup to 'real' braided oil lines. Fewer leaks under the extreme
conditions. I'm hardly a competition acro guy myself, but I would like to
avoid the occasional leaks the stock setup provides.

Does anyone have specs on the hose fabrication or know if anyone offers the
four lines as a kit?

Thx,
 
Don't know why this should be a leak problem. It is simply a drain back. No pressure. I've never seen it to be a problem.
 
Fancy Lines

Larry,
Cool idea, I've never seen it done, but I can picture it looking very race car looking. I don't see a problem with the top of the line. My question would be the case end. If the size was right, maybe just slide the braided line over the stub and use a clamp......just guessing as you have done...
I'll be following the thread to see if you get a good answer.
 
My mechanic friend said the bottom fitting is replaced with a flex-line compatible fitting. Just unscrew the old, replace with new. Using a clamp instead would only provide half the benefit. No?
 
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I don't see the issue with the OEM setup, but if you were going to replace the engine side fitting with a flared fitting why not make rigid lines with flares on each end instead of using a hose? Seems to me the rigid lines would be better then hoses.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
 
Expansion / Contraction

mahlon_r said:
I don't see the issue with the OEM setup, but if you were going to replace the engine side fitting with a flared fitting why not make rigid lines with flares on each end instead of using a hose? Seems to me the rigid lines would be better then hoses.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
Click to expand...

The little bit of hose with the clamps allows for expansion and contraction differences. A full on solid line would be almost certain disaster sooner or later.
 
Yes, it was my assumption that the primary purpose of the rubber hose was for strain relief. No?
 
hoses

Just thinking out loud here, I like this thread.
The rubber connector is for strain relief, I'm assuming, but it may be for correct length too. We know the cylinder moves some while running.
Although more left to right, thats why we have an expansion joint in the side baffels. I doubt the length changes as the designer goes a long way to keep things together in the stroke deminsions. I see the challenge in getting the manufactured hose the correct length that would allow for "some" movement.
so maybe this design is already thought thru, or maybe the correct hose is a little long? When I was installing a oil seperator, I looked at how others ran the oil return line back to the engine sump via welding a WYE in the #3 return oil line. I was afraid of a failure in the part as it would allow the engine oil to escape, I elected to contain the small amount of oil and drain it with each oil change. I guess my point is, we have to be careful to not change the reliability while trying to improve the design.
That said, I still think it would be a cool idea.
 
Boy, I don?t know what I was thinking, you are absolutely correct, flares on both ends would be disastrous!
Good Luck,
Mahlon
"The opinions and information provided in this and all of my posts are hopefully helpful to you. Please use the information provided responsibly and at your own risk."
 
oil lines

After thinking about this and looking at my 0-360 A1A, the oil lines are not straight by any means, so the curving around would make the length not as critical. I think it may just work! It would take some thought when ordering the hose parts, like 45 or 90 degree ells at the heads, etc.
I would like to see Larry do it!! and tell us about it. How about it larry?
So I guess it is back to the original question, has anybody done it and have part numbers or detailed advice or pictures?
Regards,
 
I'm ready...at the next oil change or other convenient downtime. If anyone wants to give me a head-start with fitting and hose specs, chime in. Would a -3 hose be acceptable? I'm currently thinking straight fittings at both ends, and a 45 or 90 on the cyl end of the hose. I don't like the 45 fitting coming out of the cylinder because you have hope correct torque coincides with the correct orientation.

Agreed that length is not too critical, just enough slack to route nicely without excessive sag....
 
fittings

Larry,
I meant 45 or 90's on the hoses.
I don't think you want the big bend that the the hose itself you'd make.
The make a "fitting end".
If you look at the factory set-up, yo will see what I mean.
Bob
 
-4 hoses is what I've seen used. There was an overhauler at KWHP for awhile that used these exclusively. I suggest STEEL AN fittings with teflon lifetime hoses, but you could use firesleeved standard aircraft hose if you want.
 
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