M

mattsmith

Well Known Member
I am thinking of using a router to cut my panel. Has anyone tried this with any success? I would use a metal blade and build a fence system to make square straight lines, any thoughts?
 
Aggressive?

Being an avid wood worker I would think a router would be awfully aggressive and cumbersome to use. I can not recall ever seeing a bit which would work good for this application either. A Dremel tool and a metal cutting bit, with the same fence theory, might be easier to manage and safer. My Dremel has a base just as a router would which holds the tool perfectly at 90* to the work. Plenty of bits which would do the job nice and neat. Just my 2 cents...
 
cutting aluminum with wood tools

You CAN use a router and wood bits to cut sheet aluminum. Similarly, you CAN use a tablesaw (raise blade very high for this). Both methods can cut aluminum without damage to the equipment. You have to CONTROL THE ALUMINUM STOCK (not just by hand)because it will chatter and catch given the slightest chance. You should use all safety methods such as feather boards, etc. Wear hearing protection because it is LOUD. It would not be my method of first choice. The router will cut better if you obtain a spiral flute mill bit.

I used the tried and true drill, saw, file methods mentioned above and the panel came out fine fine fine.
 
Matt,
I have been cutting my panel over the last three or four weekends. I used hole punches for the round 3 1/8" & 2 1/4" holes but I have successfully cut the square holes with my router.

I used a wood cutting router bit like this:
TR150_b3.jpg


and also made templates in 10mm MDF board (used 12"x18" pieces).

This made it pretty straightforward. First, I marked out a hole in the panel blank. Then I cut it out rough, to within about 1/8", with a saw. Then I clamped the template over the rough cutout and routed it.

The results were fine. I did have to file out the corners as my router bit had a 1/2" diameter. The straight lines did have a tiny 'wave' to them, just a few thou peak to trough, which were visible but easily sorted with the file.
I am guessing that the results would have been better with with a router bit specifically designed for metal but the wood bit was just fine.

I used templates for my AF3500's and Garmin 695 with AirGizmo mount.
I also used the 695 template, repositioning few times over to cut the hole for my Garmin 240 audio panel.

Regards,
Steve Hutt
RV-7
West Sussex, UK
 
Believe it or not a router is one of the best tools to use. It'll give you a really nice clean edge, do an excellent job and overall is probably one of the best ways for a builder to do it himself if he has the tools. Make yourself some wood templates and start cutting! The trick is to use a single or dual flute bit, keep it cool, keep it going plenty fast and keep the shavings flying. You want good chips to fly off the aluminum (not dust) because if you don't take a good chip the bit will load up.

As others have also mentioned, a bandsaw with a wood blade is best for cutting sheet aluminum as well. For thick aluminum, a table saw or skillsaw works great. We routinely cut 1/2" aluminum tooling plate with a regular skillsaw with a wood blade (that is preferred) and is what anyone who does much heavy aluminum work will use.

Anyway, just be careful and it'll work fine. In general, stay away from any tools made specifically for cutting steel and stick with woodworking tools when it comes to cutting. Course tooth pitch on bandsaw, circular saw and router bits...

Cheers,
Stein
 
shuttle said:
Matt,
I have been cutting my panel over the last three or four weekends. I used hole punches for the round 3 1/8" & 2 1/4" holes but I have successfully cut the square holes with my router.

I used a wood cutting router bit like this:
TR150_b3.jpg


and also made templates in 10mm MDF board (used 12"x18" pieces).

This made it pretty straightforward. First, I marked out a hole in the panel blank. Then I cut it out rough, to within about 1/8", with a saw. Then I clamped the template over the rough cutout and routed it.

The results were fine. I did have to file out the corners as my router bit had a 1/2" diameter. The straight lines did have a tiny 'wave' to them, just a few thou peak to trough, which were visible but easily sorted with the file.
I am guessing that the results would have been better with with a router bit specifically designed for metal but the wood bit was just fine.

I used templates for my AF3500's and Garmin 695 with AirGizmo mount.
I also used the 695 template, repositioning few times over to cut the hole for my Garmin 240 audio panel.

Regards,
Steve Hutt
RV-7
West Sussex, UK
Click to expand...

I've done the same as Steve. Also have used what I believe is called a "pattern bit" which has the guide bearing on the very end. This worked well for cutting the holes for the AFS 4500's as Stein shipped me the mounting plates and I used them as the guide.

You do have to move on with the router bit and have a firm & solid pattern to run the router against. I tended to have the pattern on the outside of the cut so if I screwed up or the router jumped it would be jumping into the cutout.

I attached the blank aluminum to a piece of particle board when I first started. I think having a piece of wood - particle board- under the aluminum and cutting through both the aluminum and the particle board seemed to keep the bit from stopping up. Don't know if that real or just perception.

Doug
 
I used a 3 1/8" and a 2/ 14" punch & die set from Avery for the instrument holes and hack saw, Dremel with cut off disc and file for everything else. The punch cut accurate holes that only needed a slight de-burr and clean up with a half round file.

decalproad1.jpg


console2to3.jpg


Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Phase 1
 
Router use

Hi Mattsmith,

I just done the deed today for my radio stack. I've been using a router to trim aluminum throughout my build. I use a 1/2" carbide tracer bit (bearing on vary end of bit) to follow a mdf pattern clamped under the panel.

Give it a try on some scraps, you'll be pleasantly surprised.


tailwinds, terry.
 
I've seen a video somewhere (EAA videos?) where they were fabbing aluminum ribs with a router guided by a wooden pattern. I was surprised, but it did seem to work well.

I haven't subjected my own router to this, yet. :D
 
I have used a router to cut holes in my baggage floor and it worked beautifully. I use a bit similar to the one Steve showed. The bit wore down some as I worked so I adjusted the depth to maintain a sharp edge against the aluminum and to insure the cut line didn't wander off the intended path from bit wear. In my case, I found it better to move the router slowly--if I went fast, I got an uneven edge that would need some file work to smooth out. The result was a cut edge that only needed a little Scotchbrite work to finish it off.

All I did was clamp a straight board on the baggage floor to use as a guide, rather than making a template. You have to be careful when you get to the end of the intended cut to not go too far.

I did the round holes in my instrument panel for the Interstate with a fly cutter. Worked very well and a fellow -9A builder did the same. Be sure to clamp it in a drill press and make sure the panel is 90 degrees to the bit.
 
Thanks

Thanks for all your replies. Looks like I will use a router, I forgot to mention the panel will be all glass so no round holes. Thanks again for all of your input.
 
Started cutting mine last night. Old school. Layout with a square, drill the corners, scribe a line, use a rotozip with cutting disc and then file to finish. This took about 1hr including layout.

RV-7build267.jpg


Will do some round holes today. fly cutter for big stuff and unibit for the little ones.

I have more time than money;)
 
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