M

moll780

Well Known Member
Im going to T into the pitot/static system for my new gemini.
Should I assume I can just cut the tube with a box cutter and press the T connector into the tubing?
Should I use any clamps or saftey wire on the tubing?
Curious if there is any special methods or is it as simple as I seem to be envisioning.

thanks!
 
We must be on the same page.

I have a weekend of heavy rain and I hope to finally install my pitch servo and maybe even get the wires to the panel. I'm watching your threads!!:)
 
From most of the pics im finding, I dont think I need to use clamps on the tubes.
the T's and NPT fittings are all barbed and it seems like this should be sufficient.

What are you using for your servo wires? I have some 5 strand teflon cable I bought from AS and have taken a previous recommendation of using 18g wires for power and ground.

AndyRV7 said:
I have a weekend of heavy rain and I hope to finally install my pitch servo and maybe even get the wires to the panel. I'm watching your threads!!:)
Click to expand...
 
I had a non-working pictorial pilot in my plane. So the wing servo and panel slot are already there. Not to mention the wiring of the PP. In my mind, that removes a lot of the wiring guess work, at least in terms of how to send a signal to the AP and turn it on and off! I am hopeful that I can just pull that wiring off the PP plug and add it to the Gemini plug. Looks like I may have to extend some wires because the Gemini doesn't stick out the back of the panel as far as the PP. I also have to swap the fuse for a 7.5amp I believe, from a 5 amp version.

I have zero experience as a builder and have never wired anything in a plane before. But I ordered the appropriate length and gauge of wiring from Stein, as well as any other hardware I would need, and tools. He and his people knew exactly what I needed and made me feel a little better about the install. You may have a solution already, but it was nice to have Stein twist me up a few wires of the appropriate gauge, into a "harness." I took a good look around the floor area at my condition inspection this month to try to figure out how I would route the wires to the panel. I don't have the answer yet but I have some ideas now. I've just been intimidated by this and dragging my feet since around March.

So I hope to start with the servo mount (pitch), then worry about getting the wires past the spar, and finally, wiring the Gemini. It is the first two parts that have me nervous. I don't have to take the plane out of service to do the latter.

Sorry for the long story. I was just trying to convince myself I have a good plan! I think you are correct on the static and pitot lines. And I think the servo wires were 20 or 22 for the signal, and heavier for power and ground like you mentioned.
 
moll780 said:
Im going to T into the pitot/static system for my new gemini.
Should I assume I can just cut the tube with a box cutter and press the T connector into the tubing?
Should I use any clamps or saftey wire on the tubing?
Curious if there is any special methods or is it as simple as I seem to be envisioning.

thanks!
Click to expand...

As long as the tubing is a tight fit on the barbed fittings you should be good to go. It really is that simple. :)
 
wow.. we're in almost the same boat! my PP went out about a month ago. I got the gemini about two weeks later and have been dragging my feet the last two weeks. I have enough cable to extend to the gemini and thankfully the PO also used pins instead of soldering the wires directly into the connector. So my plan is to remove the pins (have the pin removal tool) and move the pins over to the new d-sub connector. then plumb in the pitot/static. hopefully at that time I can start flying if I don't feel confident enough to put in the servo at the same time.

AndyRV7 said:
I had a non-working pictorial pilot in my plane. So the wing servo and panel slot are already there. Not to mention the wiring of the PP. In my mind, that removes a lot of the wiring guess work, at least in terms of how to send a signal to the AP and turn it on and off! I am hopeful that I can just pull that wiring off the PP plug and add it to the Gemini plug. Looks like I may have to extend some wires because the Gemini doesn't stick out the back of the panel as far as the PP. I also have to swap the fuse for a 7.5amp I believe, from a 5 amp version.

I have zero experience as a builder and have never wired anything in a plane before. But I ordered the appropriate length and gauge of wiring from Stein, as well as any other hardware I would need, and tools. He and his people knew exactly what I needed and made me feel a little better about the install. You may have a solution already, but it was nice to have Stein twist me up a few wires of the appropriate gauge, into a "harness." I took a good look around the floor area at my condition inspection this month to try to figure out how I would route the wires to the panel. I don't have the answer yet but I have some ideas now. I've just been intimidated by this and dragging my feet since around March.

So I hope to start with the servo mount (pitch), then worry about getting the wires past the spar, and finally, wiring the Gemini. It is the first two parts that have me nervous. I don't have to take the plane out of service to do the latter.

Sorry for the long story. I was just trying to convince myself I have a good plan! I think you are correct on the static and pitot lines. And I think the servo wires were 20 or 22 for the signal, and heavier for power and ground like you mentioned.
Click to expand...
 
Good to know. I've half thought about (and ordered the parts) to make a short offsetting plug to extend the wires. It doesn't seem like the cleanest solution but I am not going to worry about that until I get the other wires to the panel. The wiring diagrams seem pretty straight forward.

YEs, that is another approach. I just figured I tackle the scary parts first. I figure the wiring under the panel can be done while still flying. I had to send the PP back to TT, so I installed my Gemini in the panel. I'll post you up on my own progress and pics. I think it is a matter of just committing and starting the project. At least with the pitch servo, you only have to remove the aft bulkhead to do the work. So even if it proves troublesome, It won't take long to put the bulkhead back in and go flying instead!!:D
 
The worst gotcha

Gentlemen, be very careful when installing the servo that you don't set up the servo arm in such a manner that it can "go over center" and lock your elevator control. The servo instructions are usually clear about this potential problem but be extra careful just the same.
 
Sam Buchanan said:
Gentlemen, be very careful when installing the servo that you don't set up the servo arm in such a manner that it can "go over center" and lock your elevator control. The servo instructions are usually clear about this potential problem but be extra careful just the same.
Click to expand...

I was aware of that but not entirely clear on it. But once I get it in, I hope to have someone look at the install for me. Thanks!
 
You will know pretty quickly if it can even approach over center. This sounds dumb, but while you are doing the install... have a very bright light in there with you.... ie. LED work light. At some point after the servo arm is connected.... push it full travel several times. Take time to just look over everything possible without hurrying. No matter how long you have been in that RV Yoga pose. Look for conflicts with the wiring and controls, arm travel etc. Also, snap photos with a camera or phone and store them. Lastly, torque seal on nuts etc. is a good idea. Have fun, it is worth it.
 
While we are talking installations, be sure you use a large area washer on the pushrod bearings, like in this photo:

EZ2-3.jpg


That will prevent the pushrod from coming loose and ruining your day if a bearing fails.
 
moll780 said:
Im going to T into the pitot/static system for my new gemini.
Should I assume I can just cut the tube with a box cutter and press the T connector into the tubing?
Should I use any clamps or saftey wire on the tubing?
Curious if there is any special methods or is it as simple as I seem to be envisioning.

thanks!
Click to expand...

Assuming you are talking about standard Nylo type tubing, no do not cut and try to push a 'T' into it, you can use the 'T' but use some small pieces of rubber/silicone hose to join the two together. Nylo tube in not made to be expanded and it will eventually crack if you force a fitting into it.
 
I agree with Walt on not pushing a T into it. Get a T from Stein or others that will just push ONto it. The quick fittings are fantastic to use. I have been using them exclusively for a year now without a single leak. Much better and easier than the Nyloseal fittings.
 
what are those T connectors called? Having a heck of a time finding them.. EDIT: think i found them.. using Nylo as a search term.

also, whats "N" tubing.. and "NSR" tubing.. EDIT: figured this out as well... still.. too many choices!!
so many choices its mind boggling!!


Jesse said:
I agree with Walt on not pushing a T into it. Get a T from Stein or others that will just push ONto it. The quick fittings are fantastic to use. I have been using them exclusively for a year now without a single leak. Much better and easier than the Nyloseal fittings.
Click to expand...
 
Last edited:
moll780 said:
what are those T connectors called? Having a heck of a time finding them.. EDIT: think i found them.. using Nylo as a search term.

also, whats "N" tubing.. and "NSR" tubing.. EDIT: figured this out as well... still.. too many choices!!
so many choices its mind boggling!!
Click to expand...

That style of fitting is called a "Push to Connect" fitting. I used them for my pitot and static lines and was leak free. The other big benefit is that they are easy to disconnect / reconnect for testing or future expansion.

Larry
 
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