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alpinelakespilot2000

Well Known Member
Aside from expensive specialty tools, anyone have suggestions for what to use to cleanly cut 2AWG wire?

Also, what do you use to strip 2AWG wire? Just carefully use some dikes?

Thanks.
 
Easy Steve, just use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel in it. Put the cable in a vise and cut. Works great for oil/fuel hoses as well. As far as striping, score around the circumferance with a sharp utility knife, then score from the circumference score to the end of the cable... peel off the insulation.

Larry
 
Why go buy another tool when a cut-off wheel that you might already have works so well? Oh, wait a minute....any excuse to buy a new tool, yeah, that's it....;)

Looks like nice cutter Ron - but the cut-off wheel works pretty well!

Paul
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Aside from expensive specialty tools, anyone have suggestions for what to use to cleanly cut 2AWG wire?

Also, what do you use to strip 2AWG wire? Just carefully use some dikes?

Thanks.
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Steve, forget what anyone else tells you and just get one of these.
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_...Cutters&psid=FROOGLE01&sid=IDx20070921x00003a
The Craftsman Handi-Cut from Sears is the only way to go. I have cut enough #2 gauge welding cable with this to re-wire several golf carts, and the replaceable blade is still razor sharp! Cutting anything from cable to heater hose to pitot-static tubing, this will beat anything else! It is the cleanest cutting tool you will ever use! Trust me on this one. Here's a pic of a #2 cable cut with one one of these:
[img=http://img150.imageshack.us/img150/4738/dsc00459ix6.th.jpg]
 
Thanks for the help guys.

Actually, Ron is right on target on this one. Although I usually don't like to buy unnecessary tools, preferring instead to buy big screen TVs and feed starving kids in Africa :), I've had one of those around for a couple years, ever since it came recommended by SafeAir for pitot/static/AOA lines. I also use it a ton around the house. I think it only cost me $10-12, too!

Anyway, I went home and tried it on the 2AWG. Far cleaner cut than with the cutoff wheel, although that worked OK too.

Thanks again. Now, if someone can just to the same thing for a cheap 2AWG crimper! :) Gonna try my hand at soldering tonight.

Edit: to revise slightly the above, the cutter Ron recommends works great. However, my blade bent slightly after the fourth cut, after which it was useless. New blade and it worked again for about 3-4 more cuts. Either a thicker blade or different technique might solve that problem.
 
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alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Thanks for the help guys.

Actually, Ron is right on target on this one. Although I usually don't like to buy unnecessary tools, preferring instead to buy big screen TVs and feed starving kids in Africa :), I've had one of those around for a couple years, ever since it came recommended by SafeAir for pitot/static/AOA lines. I also use it a ton around the house. I think it only cost me $10-12, too!

Anyway, I went home and tried it on the 2AWG. Far cleaner cut than with the cutoff wheel, although that worked OK too.

Thanks again. Now, if someone can just to the same thing for a cheap 2AWG crimper! :) Gonna try my hand at soldering tonight.
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http://www.profax-lenco.com/PDF_Files/Cable-Splicers-PB.pdf

Bottom right of page-Model 840. I have it; works great with 4 pound hammer!

Don't solder lugs onto #2 cable-crimp them!

Get it from www.weldingsupply.com
Under $9.00
 
I must be in the early stages of oldtimer's disease cuz I can't for the life of me remember what I used, but I cut gobs of the stuff. I don't remember it being any issue at all either. Teeth maybe?? Dang, it's really bugging me!
 
Well I tried soldering per Aero Bob's instructions. Not sure if I interpreted Bob's funny English. It's pretty confusing when he starts talking about when and where to apply the solder, but I only applied the solder from the shaft side (or uncut wire side) of the terminal. It wicked in a LOT! The only problem is that I now have no clue whether or not I made a good joint. The crimping idea's looking pretty good about now!
 
alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Edit: to revise slightly the above, the cutter Ron recommends works great. However, my blade bent slightly after the fourth cut, after which it was useless. New blade and it worked again for about 3-4 more cuts. Either a thicker blade or different technique might solve that problem.
Click to expand...
Steve, got a pic (end view) of the cable you're trying to cut? The cable I use has strands like human hair thickness, and is extremely flexible. I have made probably 25-30 cuts and the blade is still in new condition. I also make my own lugs from a coil of 3/8" copper tubing. Works great! I had to re-wire an electric golf cart that we are using for a tug at the airport. It fried all the original cables connecting the six 6-volt batteries together, as well as the cables going to the motor. I guess it didn't like pushing around a nine-thousand pound plane! The new cables don't even get warm now.
 
Soldering 101

alpinelakespilot2000 said:
Well I tried soldering per Aero Bob's instructions. Not sure if I interpreted Bob's funny English. It's pretty confusing when he starts talking about when and where to apply the solder, but I only applied the solder from the shaft side (or uncut wire side) of the terminal. It wicked in a LOT! The only problem is that I now have no clue whether or not I made a good joint. The crimping idea's looking pretty good about now!
Click to expand...

Several things are important here. One, a strong joint, with a good solder bond between the wire and the terminal. The majority of the surface area between the wire and terminal must be filled. Two, the solder must not wick back up into the wire farther than you are prepared to strain relief. The multi strand wire becomes a single strand when filled with solder. Especially with smaller gauges, the wire will easily snap at the terminal without excellent strain relief.

To satisfy condition two, I would pre-tin the wire and the terminal, and then feed the solder from the eyelet side of the terminal almost exclusively. Just a touch back at the wire entry point of the terminal to make things pretty.

Really, to solder big lugs for #2 wire a solder pot comes in real handy, and keeps the wicking up the wire to a minimum.

Crimping is a lot easier for a novice, if you have a good crimper. :p

Good Luck,

T.J.
 
I think Tony Bingelis recommended using a cold chisel to cut large wire. That's what I used and it worked well. I didn't see a need for a new tool given that I only needed to make about 4 or 5 cuts.
 
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