rv969wf

Well Known Member
Custom Built Cooling System,,, Composite

Is there anyone that would be interested in custom built cooling tins for the heads and cylinders that fit and are gapped correctly to fit IO-360 angle valve engines that work. Kinda curious to see how many people hate making these things and would like to find a source for custom built ones. If interested let me know.Thanks AJ :)
 
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Cool what Ya thinking

rv969wf said:
Is there anyone that would be interested in custom built cooling tins for the heads and cylinders that fit and are gapped correctly to fit IO-360 angle valve engines that work. Kinda curious to see how many people hate making these things and would like to find a source for custom built ones. If interested let me know.Thanks AJ :)
Hey Allen, to par a phrase, "If you build it and build it good They will come".

I am sure you are aware that Van's sells his Baffle Kit for $230

It's the typical kit and you have to build it up, but it is trimmed to net shape, but you still have to fit. Where you thinking? As far as gap-ping that is something you kind of have to fit on the engine and plane, don't you? However if you have some better idea, I know you do great work, that would be COOL. :rolleyes: (pun intended)
 
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Custom Cooling System Composite

Hi George, what I'm looking at is all composite top to bottom, yes it will hold up to the heat. Something I didn't mention was a sealed top plenum as well. As far as the gap between the inner cylinder/head baffle and the baffles that wrap around the cyl/heads, that is a measurement that should be the same on ALL cylinders and heads, hot spots will happen if the gap is not to spec. If that gap is opened up or closed down then the airflow around the cyl/heads is not equal..... you and other pilots are probably aware of that. I've tried all sorts of things with temps probes and heat coloring crayons to see what the temps are around the heads and cylinders etc. Of course Lycoming has done all of this and the lower gap must be kept the same. 2 1/4" on cyl heads and 1" on the cylinders works the best from what I've seen. The the other gap I'm talking about is getting air to flow around cylinder #2 at the front fin area and cylinder #3 at the rear, I've looked at hundreds of RV's and other general aviation aircraft and maybe two out of a 100 are correct and they wonder why #2 and mostly #3 cyls run hotter than 1 and 4. So then what guys do is start blocking air too #1 cyl to get it up to temps like #2 and #3 then deal with #4 running cold. If all of the gaps that I'm talking about are correct, many pilots would see some drastic cyl temp reductions in hot weather and even be able to shut down their air inlets and pick up a little speed. Years ago I heard of pilots opening up or closing the gap on the lower baffles......I was a monkey see monkey do guy back then and I even opened the gap up on one cyl head in 1/2" increments all the way to 4" to try to get more air flow to cool a hot cylinder,,,,,wrong, it made things worse and created hot spots. Probably aware that the changes need to be made on top not the bottom. If you have a mock up engine on a stand with the inner cooling baffles that Lycoming builds in place, then the baffles and plenum can be made to fit perfect around the entire engine, should not make a difference if its in the airplane since nothing is related or fits the cowling except at the cowling air inlets. Aluminum cooling tins are hard to fit the cyl/heads perfect without silicone to seal the areas where a few gaps might be. With the composite baffles they would be molded to fit Lycoming cyl/heads fins perfect. I am aware that Superior / ECI cyl fins are a little different then Lycomings but not much. To protect the composite baffles from eating on the fins or the fins eating on the composite material a high temp spray on rubber type barrier is applied to the cooling shrouds where they are against the fins. Long story short but one would be looking at a low profile top plenum with round inlets, back baffle with all attachments, all baffles that wrap around cylinders as a package. Bolt it on with no trimming cutting making this and that except for scat tubes, plug wire holes and oil cooler cutout. Anyway I've never seen anything out there like this and was looking to see if there is any interest for the RV's. No it will not be $230 lol....This would be a custom fit cooling system for the SJ style cowling for the RV-6,7, 8 with an angle valve 200HP Lycoming. Kinda long story but I hope I explained everything. George, your very up and up on what I'm talking about here so if you have any thoughts or feedback please give me a buzz. Thanks and happy flying. AJ
 
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Sounds like a lot of work when you could simply fab your own plenum top to fit the SJ Cowling using the Vans baffling like I did here for my factory cowling.

-Jeff


CANOPY%20007.jpg
 
Plenum system

Hi Jeff, very nice looking plenum that you built. Yes what I've done is a fare amount of work in the early stages making this that molds etc., but when you have a mold / plug everything can be duplicated very easily. I'm just trying to see if anyone is interested in a prefabbed bolt on cooling kit because I know some builders don't like messing with the cooling system baffles and some or most of them are not designed to work effiecently when they're done. Just trying to help some builders out there. Nice looking system you have there again. AJ
 
My 2 cents

I guess I would be interested, but I already have the stock cowl so if it's only for the SJ cowl I guess it's not for me...

cheers,
mcb
 
Baffle

AJ I have a stock 0-360 and Vans cowl and baffling. I would be interested in a top plenum to replace what I have. What would be the cost?
Tad
 
Wide deck angle valve engine only

At this moment I'm looking at the wide deck Lycoming angle valve engine only. If there is enough interest I would look into it later. Sorry, but thanks for asking. AJ
 
Plenum

Hey Tad,, I'd go with the top plenum that Jeff makes as it is a very nice looking piece and priced right. Very nice work that you have done on your RV Jeff, looks very nice. AJ
 
AJ, can you give us a little more details about these gaps you talked about.. We're getting ready to troubleshoot high CHTs on #2 and 3 and your post really sounded like something we should check.. I'm just not clear what exactly we should be looking into. Also, if you have any more suggestions, they'd be greatly appreciated.
 
Air flow around #2 and #3 cylinders

Hi Radomir, if you can give me your email or email me at [email protected] I will attach a drawing that shows what I'm talking about on the problem with cooling cyls #2 & #3. It is very critical and when you see the drawing you'll think,,,,this is so simple and why didn't I think of that. If done correctly you will see 20-40F + degree temp drops on #2 & #3 roughly depending on application. Thanks, AJ RV-6 IO-360A1B6 460 hours
 
Hey it worked....

First time at trying to upload an image....and it worked. Hope this drawings/pictures will explain what I'm talking about that I posted earlier... AJ
 
Cylinder life to TBO Keep it Cool

If you want your air cooled engine to make TBO or longer and have Cylinders that can make it through the long haul on the next overhaul and be saved,,,, :) This is a must to do!!!! Heat kills engines but do not run them too cold either... BTW I'm running cylinder head temps colder than most with many other mods to the cooling system and each year I have 78 to 79 over 80 leakdown tests on each cyl at each annual. My engine is very strong and it's feels like a new one everytime I takeoff since I built the engine....I keep the oil temps at 185-190F in climb/cruise and at times I'll get it up to 220F to boil off condensation in the oil...via a NACA duct door controlling the oil temp / blocking air to the oil cooler. Just adding a note here for pilots to look at the drawings/pictures in my last attachment two/three threads up.. Happy flying. AJ
 
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cylinder fins

Note that the shallow fins are on the intake side (cooler side) of the cylinder.
Tom
 
Intake side Cooling fins...versus exhaust..

Yep your correct...The intake side is cooler,,,,,Exhaust side of the cooling has much more fin area,,,,,because of the high exhaust temps,,,, but air still needs to flow around the cooling fins on the intake side and around tooooooo the bottom fins to disipate the heat to cool the cylinders and head correctly. Heat temp masking coloring will show what is hot and cold and checking cylinders for out of roundness in many overhauls will show the problem. Air must be surrounded and trapped on all of the fins for proper cooling. Air cooled engines need an equal amount of air flowing thru all of the cylinders with an exit point the same. What I mean is Do not pinch off air at two cylinders when the two other cylinders are getting a full breath of air. AJ...
 
Alan, we played with it today.. We're seeing about 30 deg lower temps with the mods... Now, 3 and 4 are within one degree of each other.. looking good.. thanks for the suggestions.
 
Cool !!! I'm happy it worked for YOU...

Radomir That's great!!!! 30F degrees change or better and getting them more close to each other is COOL isn't it. Can you imagine what the temps were at the other areas around the cylinder / heads without making this change. Your TBO cylinder/head life will be extended by doing this greatly. Question for Radomir? Does the engine feel any different in performance to you by doing this, hince running cooler more even temps? Of course time will tell and flight testing. If all the cylinders are at close to the same temps / combustion temps, etc.etc. things are going to more balanced out with the air fuel mixture ratio,,,, injected engines mostly. Happy flying, glad to of helped.
 
Can't tell about the engine (yet), but two guys in the cockpit felt a lot better seeing the new temps :) many thanks again!