Is the curved stick really worth it?

Guys,
I attended the Lakeland RV weekend (it was great) and noticed that none of the 8s or 8As had curved sticks (that I could tell). Is it really worth it to yank that crank?
 
It definitely was to me. The -8 fwd cockpit, although very nice, lacks slightly in overall layout comfort. The lacking parts are that the panel is a little too close to the pilot and for the stick to make full travel, it either has to be straight and short or longer and bent.

Makes a significant difference.
 
Your Welcome!

I agree with Low Pass, I think the bent stick would greatly improve pilot comfort in the -8. I'm gonna have to get me one, just seems to be one of those get around to its!!
 
Be aware that Todd (www.rvwoody.com) does the stick bending in periodic batches so you need to take a look at the web site to see when the next batch will be done and get your stick to him prior to that time. He does a nice job.
 
I was initially not happy with the stick placement on the -8. Its pretty far forward and has to be cut short to fit under the panel, especially if you put push-buttons on top. A local -8 pilot bought one of these bent sticks and after looking at it, I'm pretty sure this isn't the optimal solution. It's only offset by 1.5 inches. I don't think you will even notice that. And it certainly isn't enough to allow you to keep the stick longer... it would still hit the panel.

After several hours, I'm sure you will get used to the stock stick location. It has become very natural for me. Let us know if you find a better solution.

Karl
 
Make your own custom bend

After three failures, including a local tubing shop, of bending a stick; I finally took the advice regarding bending from several folks including VAF respondees. My stick is bent forward at the top and has an "S" below it to bring the stick back closer to me since the top bend moves the grip forward. Here's what I did if you want to bend your own.

Use a piece of scrap 1 x 4 lumber and drilled at 3/8" hole to represent the bolt hole in the stick. Your brass insert will fit this and allow you to actually test the 'stick' in place. Trim the top of the 'stick' to accept your grip (I have an Infinity grip and just cut a slot for the wire. It took me four tries to get exactly what I wanted. The early templates can be cut apart and screwed back together at different angles.

Ordered a couple of 2 ft pieces of the proper 4130 tubing, pounded in a wood plug on one end. Then filled with 'play ground sand and tamped/ shook to settle the sand. Pound in a plug at the other end

Clamp the sand-fill tube to something fairly solid and ensure you have a 'working area' that's not to cramped. keep your wooden stick pattern handy I used a broad cutting torch (wear welder's goggles so you can see and to protect your eyes) set to a neutral flame. Heat the metal to dull red and bend small portions at a time matching to your pattern.

When cool, use your pattern to locate and drill the cross-hole for the bolt; cut to length and use a vise to narrow the base end for the bottom. Use Van's stick for a pattern a thickness gauge (My bottom piece was 0.050") and make & fit a "U" shaped piece for the bottom. I left it untrimmed and built a simple jig to hold it in place for welding. Trim to match Van's stick and drill and you have a beutiful custom stick.

If anybody wants to try this, I'll be happy to e-mail pictures of the patterns or stick. If you really want, I would mail tracings or the actual final pattern. This was time-consuming, but the stick comfort is everything I wanted. :)

Harold
 
Mine is cut and welded with two 90 deg offsets. It rises some10" from the fulcrum pt. to the first miter cut and welded joint. It then has aprox. 5" aft run to another mitered joint. This puts the top of my Infinity grip about 2" above the lower edge of the panel.

I find this to be pretty comfortable.

Even with a hydraulic bender and several tries, I never could get it comfortable by bending alone.
 
Hi RV4er Dude
I want to bring the grip closer to my lap/belly with full up elevator and maybe put a radio forward of the stick and still be able to reach it.
 
Low Pass said:
It definitely was to me. The -8 fwd cockpit, although very nice, lacks slightly in overall layout comfort. The lacking parts are that the panel is a little too close to the pilot and for the stick to make full travel, it either has to be straight and short or longer and bent.

Makes a significant difference.

You can not easily move the panel farther forward. However, you can easily move the pilot's seat back. Order the "tall pilot" option from vans. This consists of a modified seat back weldment. It moves the top of the pilot's seat back aft 2". Install a second mounting hinge for the seat back, 1.5" rearward of the stock hinge (leave it there) and you are now farther away from the panel.
Charlie Kuss