[Rockyjs]

Just a heads up when ordering Crow harnesses for a side by side aircraft have them use sufficient webbing to clear the flap cover. I've enclosed a picture of the interference issue I have with both inboard belts. The webbing is about 3" too short and the adjustment piece is rubbing on the flap motor cover. I've been flying with them, but they are extremely difficult to adjust. The plane is going into painting soon and I'll remove them to have the web lengthened about 3". I'm also going to see if they can change the camloc on the passenger belt over to the inside belt. I'm not sure if this is feasible. The passenger sidewall is getting beat up by the camloc attached on the outboard belt when the passengers remove them and sometimes gets tangled in the rudder cable. I really like my Crow seatbelts. They are a quality product.

By rockyjs, shot with Canon PowerShot A40 at 2008-12-04

 

[yakdriver]

Rocky, I bet Crow will do everything for you for no charge. They did some mods on Mine and wouldn't even let me pay for the shipping. Great company. Don

 

[Bevan]

more pictures

Rocky,

Could you post a side view picture of the rotating latch mechanism while its buckled on a passenger?

I'm wondering how far out the latch mechanism will portrude from my six pack and whether it will interfere with the stick while flaring.

Thanks

Bevan

 

[pierre smith]

Hooker did ours......

.....while it was down for paint......wouldn't even let us pay for the shipping!
Great company

Regards,

 

[yakdriver]

.....while it was down for paint......wouldn't even let us pay for the shipping!
Great company

Same latch mechanism and high quality hardware. Crow is half the price of Hooker and built to the same standards. As they get more orders and feedback from RVs they will get the fit standardized. Don

 

[rocketbob]

Yes, those are a pain to adjust, like the Hookers are. On my Rocket I have Crow seat belts, and the adjusters work the opposite way. They are up near the buckle and pull down, which is much, much more easy to adjust. When you send them in tell them to make them pull-down adjusters.

 

[Radomir]

Thanks Bob for pointing that out. I was gonna post the ever-useless "I don't have that problem with my Crow belts" but now I realize it's because mine are pull-down too..

 

[yakdriver]

Mine are also pull down but I would like to change them to pull up and also put the passenger camlock on the left. I'll do it this winter. Don

 

[Brantel]

Mine are pull up on the lap belt and down on the shoulder straps which is suppose to be ton easier to adjust....

Anyway, plenty of room between the mount tab and the adjuster on these.

I did ask them to make them longer but it was for bubba factor not this problem. I never even considered this issue but I am glad that it won't be a problem for me...

 

[Brantel]

Not exactly what you want but the best I can do:

Rocky,

Could you post a side view picture of the rotating latch mechanism while its buckled on a passenger?

I'm wondering how far out the latch mechanism will portrude from my six pack and whether it will interfere with the stick while flaring.

Thanks

Bevan

 

[yakdriver]

Rocky,

Could you post a side view picture of the rotating latch mechanism while its buckled on a passenger?

I'm wondering how far out the latch mechanism will portrude from my six pack and whether it will interfere with the stick while flaring.

Thanks

Bevan

Bevan, I had the same concerns but they don't interfere at all and I'm not exactly on the thin side. Don

 

[Brantel]

Guys,

This is a 5 minute operation if you have never done it before and about a 3 minute operation once you know how these camlocks are made inside.

I changed mine in no time flat. Very easy to do....

What you do is remove the screws from the back of the camlock, then take the knob screw out. There are a couple springs in there so be sure to let it all loose slowly.

Once you get the back off and the knob off, the locking pins will be visible. Take the two screws off that are holding the lid that was just under the knob. This is spring loaded by all of the locking pins. Release it slowly.

Once you have that off, just swap the fixed pin out with the movable one on the opposite side. Then just put it all back together. Make sure you get the springs back into their little pockets on the cambox lid.

Sounds complicated but it is very easy to change.

I even thought about making the camlock fixed to the crotch strap. You can change the fixed point to any of the 5 points.

I'm also going to see if they can change the camloc on the passenger belt over to the inside belt. I'm not sure if this is feasible. The passenger sidewall is getting beat up by the camloc attached on the outboard belt when the passengers remove them and sometimes gets tangled in the rudder cable.

I would like to change them to pull up and also put the passenger camlock on the left. I'll do it this winter. Don

 

[Ironflight]

Sounds complicated but it is very easy to change.
.

Complicated? reading your procedure, it sounds just about like disarming a bomb!!

Just kidding....glad to hear that someone has pulled them apart before - figured it couldn't be that hard.

Paul

 

[Brantel]

Not much to them inside, very simple really. There are however some springs that may go flying if you were not aware that they are there.

I just wanted to warn people that may try it before they go pulling the screws. The springs are not that big or very compressed so the amount of stored energy is not that great.

Just be carefull and watch how it comes apart and it will go back together like a snap!

Too bad I did not take pics while swapping sides on mine

 

[Rockyjs]

Thanks Brian,
I'll swap the passenger camloc tomorrow. What is the web length between the mounting tang and the adjuster on your belts Brian? I'm going to experiment with the length to allow easy access to the adjustment and also keep it to the side of your lap when the belts are fastened. If there is too much length to the adjustment it may be difficult to secure the belt on a small passenger. I do believe pull up adjustments on the lap belts is the way to go.

 

[Brantel]

I will measure them when I get home. Mine are made with another adjustment feature at that end instead of being sewn into a fixed length. That way you can adjust them to suit your needs.

 

[Brantel]

Rocky,

Sorry it took so long to reply to this thread, I totally lost it somewhere!

My fixed point webs are 19" from the center of the adjuster to the end of the web. Once this web is locked onto the attach point, it is 13" between the adjuster and the slot on the attach point.

Looks like yours are fixed but mine are adjustable with another buckle down there. They clear the flap motor housing by a mile. The adjuster ends up being right on the side to the top of my hip.

For a small person, you could tighten this extra adjustment some more making them more flexible. It would however not be an easy adjustment to make so this is not something you would want to do everyday.

I really like the pull up feature since you can grap the camlock in one hand and the pull strap in the other and really sinch these things down easily.

Thanks Brian,
I'll swap the passenger camloc tomorrow. What is the web length between the mounting tang and the adjuster on your belts Brian? I'm going to experiment with the length to allow easy access to the adjustment and also keep it to the side of your lap when the belts are fastened. If there is too much length to the adjustment it may be difficult to secure the belt on a small passenger. I do believe pull up adjustments on the lap belts is the way to go.

 

[Rockyjs]

Thanks for the info Brian!

 

[trib]

Should belt length?

I just installed my crow belts in my RV-6A for the first time with cushions installed and the shoulder belts could just be bulked with me in the plane, seats full back and belts fully extended. The shoulder belts are 40" long. For those of you with a side by side (particularly 6A), can you let me know what length worked for you? I'm guessing about 48". I contacted Crow to check on what to do to get these lengthened since I ordered these over 2 years ago (I organized the group buy). The response was to send them in with the length specified and they would take care of them- still no charge!

Can't beat that!

 

[Brantel]

Tim,

What kind of shoulder harnesses are they? The "Y" type or the "V" type. Mine are the "Y" type so if yours are "V" my measurement won't help....

 

[yakdriver]

The V type need to be 12" longer than standard. Don

 

[trib]

Brian,

Mine are the V-type, but it seems like the overall measurement would be the same, or if not, very close. The difference in the angle generated would change the distance from the cable to the buckle only a small fraction of an inch. Can you go ahead and tell me what length your's are for reference?

tim

 

[Brantel]

I will measure when I get home but...

Mine have normal length harnesses tied together at a point just behind your head and then a strap goes from there back to the attach cable/anchor. This strap came very long and will need to be trimmed when I am satisfied with the length.

The V harnesses will need to be longer than standard for a race car. Most people say at least 12" but I have seen others recommend 14". Apparently the normal attach point for "V" harnesses in race cars is right behind the seat where as on an RV it is about a foot or slightly more behind the seat back.