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edweeks

Member
A friend recently chastised me for not having a crash axe available in the plane (-7A) in case I needed to break out the canopy to escape after a tip-over. I searched the posts here for "crash axe" and didn't find anything. I have three questions: 1) do most of you (especially those flying -A's) carry a crash axe or similar devise in the cockpit; 2) can you offer a recommendation of one that is of suitable size, shape and weight to serve its purpose; and 3) where do you store it to be out of the way but accessible when needed.

Thanks,
Ed
 
crash axe

I don't think it's a bad idea for all low wing aircraft to carry along a device to help one break out through the canopy should you end up upside down. Not all situations alow you to slide the canopy back.
 
edweeks said:
.......carry a crash axe or similar devise in the cockpit; 2) can you offer a recommendation of one that is of suitable size, shape and weight to serve its purpose; and 3) where do you store it to be out of the way but accessible when needed.......Thanks, Ed
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Here is an answer to all three of your questions. Click on the link and scroll to bottom of the page for further details. My -6A is fitted with a Bubble Buster and the weight penalty for carrying it is negligible.

http://www.safeair1.com/index.htm
 
Passenger stick

My passenger (rt side) stick is removable and usually removed and carried alongside the seat. I think it would do the job. Maybe I'll sharpen it.
 
I bought an F-4 Phantom canopy knife on Ebay a few years ago. They appear from time to time. It clips into a holder that usually comes with the knife.

Mike
 
Simulated test conditions......???????????

Has anyone ever actually broken out of an RV with any of these type tools?

Might be an interesting exercise if someone was replacing a canopy or had an otherwise wrecked airplane.
 
Crash Axe

I have a small camping hatchet secured in my -8. It is also part of my emergency survival gear.
 
Bush Axe?

I carry a Gerber A.S.E.K. knife in my flight bag now; the knife will cut thick aluminum and the butt has a pointed end that's supposed to be able to break plexiglass. It also comes with a seat belt cutter in a separate sheath.

I've been looking at the Russ Kommer "Timberline" survival hatchet/bush pilot axe (about $50 online) to carry in my 8. Does anyone have experience with this (or other) bush pilot style axe?

The "life hammer" is designed to cut seatbelts and to break auto glass. I used one in an Autobahn accident in Germany (and it worked fine for its intended role). I now carry one in my Jeep. Having said that, I couldn't get mine to break a sample piece of cold (20 degree) plexiglass in my shop-even with a full swing. I wouldn't want to rely on it to break a canopy if I was hanging upside down in an RV so it's off my list of stuff to carry...

Thanks,
Mike
 
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cawmd82 said:
Has anyone ever actually broken out of an RV with any of these type tools?

Might be an interesting exercise if someone was replacing a canopy or had an otherwise wrecked airplane.
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I bought one of the "window breakers" like Ron mentioned. I tried to break some of the cast-off pieces from my canopy with it and barely made a scratch. There isn't hardly any mass to the thing and the plexi just flexes. There also isn't enough room to get a good swing inside an -8.

I didn't put the breaker in my -8 and certainly wouldn't trust it to get me out during an emergency. I think something really sharp like a survival knife or ax would be the way to go.

During a recent discussion on this subject, someone mentioned that they carry a handgun in a shoulder holster. They intend to shoot a hole in the canopy. Here in Texas you might be able to away with that. I don't think the liberal east-coasters could... or the Canadians/Brits/Aussies.

Karl
 
Lots of Variables.....

Has anyone ever actually broken out of an RV with any of these type tools?
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How do you KNOW it works for you.
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I would have some difficulty accepting test data as a result of subjecting a scrapped canopy or piece of a canopy to blunt force blows to ultimate failure in an effort to validate the effectiveness of any given tool. Among the most glaring issues I have relates to ambient temperature. You can forcefully strike 110 degree Plexiglas to no effect, yet crack 0 degree Plexiglas with a light tap of a ball peen hammer.

In addition, I can see that most if not all of the tools mentioned in this thread could have some difficulty breaking through UNLOADED plexiglass. In the event of accident and the aircraft rests upside down, it is reasonable to suppose that the weight of the airframe and other variables would greatly increase the chances that the plexiglass is likely to be stressed, bowed or otherwise loaded. In such a situation, the blunt force required to break through the canopy would be substantially reduced, even less so if the unfortunate pilot was able to concentrate that blunt force on even a minor crack in the canopy as a result of the accident. All this is purely conjecture on my part, is worth what you paid for it and I hope to never find out for sure.
 
My original thought was to go with an $8.00 Coleman camping hatchet securely stowed in the pocket behind the passenger seat on my RV9A. However, after reading through some of this discussion last night it became evident that an $8.00 Coleman hatchet just wasn?t exotic or expensive enough to do the job, so I ordered a ?LifeHammer? from Amazon. Now, this morning I see a post stating the LifeHammer probably won?t break Plexiglas so I guess I?m back to my original $8.00 Coleman Hatchet. Perhaps I could find one with a carbon fiber handle or maybe a titanium head, that would surely drive up the cost and make it much more acceptable ;)

Not sure what to do with the LifeHammer I have on order, might feel a bit silly carrying it around in my convertible although the seatbelt cutter may come in handy.
 
Lifehammer

My buddy and I were able to assist an elderly couple in Germany after an Autobahn accident (read high speed crash into a guardrail) using the Lifehammer. It works well as designed-for auto glass and seatbelts.

Genuine Lifehammers have the "GS" sticker as shown in the add photo in this thread. This is a German safety test standard-many imitations don't meet this standard, so buyer beware.

I'd keep it in your convertible; you might be able to help someone else.

FWIW, I believe in strong and simple survival gear, and some $8 axes are better than some $50 axes I've seen...go with what you've got (but a shot of Titanium colored paint won't hurt):)

Mike
 
Rick6a said:
I would have some difficulty accepting test data as a result of subjecting a scrapped canopy or piece of a canopy to blunt force blows to ultimate failure in an effort to validate the effectiveness of any given tool. Among the most glaring issues I have relates to ambient temperature. You can forcefully strike 110 degree Plexiglas to no effect, yet crack 0 degree Plexiglas with a light tap of a ball peen hammer.
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When I did the test, I had the option of trying it on the scrap plexi or on my actual canopy. I decided to try on the scrap and I have accurately described what happened. If Rick would like to try it on his canopy and report back here, I'll be listening.

The "hammer" I have weighs about 6 ounces. I will not trust my life to that. If Rick or anyone else wants to, more power to them. I'm going to use something much sharper and much heavier.

That's all I've got to say on this subject.

I'm out.
 
axe

I carry an Estwing camp axe, with its cover on. I braided doubled a loop of 6mm climbing rope around the business end, which comes back to another loop which my left side seat belt runs through. I sharpened the blade to a razor edge. It weighs a little under two pounds. I can either get to it by undoing the loop at the heavy end, or by slipping the seat belt through. As a test, I chopped an aluminum (longeron) angle in half with it and I'm pretty sure it'll get through a canopy as well. In flight, it sits alongside the seat to my left and is completely out of the way. In an accident, its attached to me, so it can't get too far away. It can only travel as far as the rope lets it, so it can't hit me in the head unless the climbing rope breaks. To each their own, but I'm a believer in the mass that steel provides...and a very sharp edge doesn't hurt either.
 
Go to www.topsknives.com. Click on Tops Axes and check out the 3rd one down. Just got one for my RV8 at the SHOT Show here in Vegas last week. The handle is short enough to get a good swing inside the 8 and it has enough heft to break the plexiglass. The blade is sharp and has the pick on the other side. It would probably do quite a number on aluminum too. I'll figure a good storage place and mounting hardware when I get to that pointin the build.

Mike
 
Properly priced...........

treeez said:
Go to www.topsknives.com. Click on Tops Axes and check out the 3rd one down. Just got one for my RV8 at the SHOT Show here in Vegas last week. The handle is short enough to get a good swing inside the 8 and it has enough heft to break the plexiglass. The blade is sharp and has the pick on the other side. It would probably do quite a number on aluminum too. I'll figure a good storage place and mounting hardware when I get to that pointin the build.

Mike
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Decent looking tool. It even comes with a proper aviation pricetag-$179:eek:
 
Don't know how this would work, but in the fire service we used a snap punch ( same as the center punch you use to mark metal on your RV)
to break safty glass in automobiles. They are very effective for that. I'd be interested to see how it would work on a canopy...not mine though :D
 
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