S

sundog04

Member
My RV7A cowling is rough trimmed. I'm using Van's standard hinge method to join the top cowl to the bottom. With baffles installed, and all cowling parts assembled with clecos, the gap top to bottom on both sides, runs from flush to apx. 3/32".

What is an acceptable gap? If I wanted to fill in the gap, how would I do it? Is it best to just live with the gap as long as it is uniform front to back?

Also, the gap between the front face of the cowl to the prop back plate is not uniform. From apx. 1/4", on top to 1/2" between 3 and 8 o'clock. I realize this is not uncommon, but it looks bad, so how do you fix it?

The top to bottom fit in both air inlet ducts is not good and will need reshaping and gaps filled. Again, what is the best way?

Thanks for your help,

Mike
 
Where's the gap top to bottom? front or back? Ideally, I'd want to be tight fit to start with.

Can you undo the clecos and suck it down tight?

I was too tight to start and then started running a ******* file, and I took off more then I wanted in a couple places. my goal was to get to where I wouldn't be chipping paint.

So, i'm trying to picture that 3/32 gap and it sounds like too much.

The front, a flat piece of alum. waxed up and then build up with resin and flux and 1/2" x 2" glass strips. and then sand to match. IIRC

Good luck, lots of picts on peoples websites. hope that helps a little.
got any picts?
 
Thanks Mark. The gap I'm speaking of is the horizonal junction between the top and bottom cowl from the rear to the point where the hinge pin pertrudes in the front. All holes have been drilled, the baffle assembly is complete, it would be a major undertaking to change things now.

Thanks again,

Mike
 
I figured you had about 12 inches of gap, sounds like the whole length has a gap,huh?

You can always redrill in between the existing holes on the side. Or replace the hinge or half a hinge and redrill.

Problem is, the back firewall hinge, not recommended, redrilling there. Maybe relieve the holes a bit?

And things will change some when you rivet.
 
Just finished

Mike:

We just finished the cowl on a 9. We used hinges and screws, plus we made our own oil door.

I can email you all of the pics and talk you thru the tough parts. Feel free to call:

Barry
520-797-0265 8am - 6pm Tucson time
 
Cowling issueS @#@#@#@!!!!!

I too had issues with the matching of the top and bottom cowl halves. My gap is about 1/32 th inch betweeen the top and bottom. It was more to begin with but I undid the clocoes and "sucked it in." But at the firewal face, the gap was more. I used a piece off scrap aluminum and covered it with vinyl electrical tape, drilled and clecoed it to the cowling, and then gooped on an epoxy/microballoon slurrry, a little wetter than usual. When it dried I sanded it down to an accceptable level.
The spinner ring gap was also much like yourrs, 1/4 inch at top and about a half inch at the bottom. I went to a craft store and bought some1/4 inch thick craft foam, hot glued it to the face off the cowl and then sanded it to the proper "gap" Then epoxied on 2 layers of 6 ounce cloth. Then covered that with Superfil and sanded it smooth. The gap is now about 3/16th all the way around. Took about a week but I'm much happier now.

Dave
 
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