[gremaley]

Working on my rudder, RV-14A, and was doing some practice countersinking on a small scrap piece of trailing edge...
I'm using the Cleaveland Tools jig which is stamped 14 on one side and no stamp on the other. The directions said the side stamped 14 is for the RV-14... makes sense I thought...

So the side stamped 14 gave me a countersink that was not perpendicular to the skin. Plus, the holes don't line up in the jig for the nose of the bit. I tried the other side and it seemed to work much better.

Has anyone else had this issue or am I making a dumb mistake?

 

[scard]

We mostly made these fixtures ourselves decades ago. Do what works best .

 

[bertschb]

According to the document that came with my Cleaveland Tools jig, the side marked "14" is for "...the RV-14/14A's elevator wedge strips. The other side is for all other wedge strips".

 

[gremaley]

Ahhh, I misread the sheet that came in the bag with the jig. Makes perfect sense now.. Thank you.

 

[graywoodworking]

Working on my rudder, RV-14A, and was doing some practice countersinking on a small scrap piece of trailing edge...
I'm using the Cleaveland Tools jig which is stamped 14 on one side and no stamp on the other. The directions said the side stamped 14 is for the RV-14... makes sense I thought...

So the side stamped 14 gave me a countersink that was not perpendicular to the skin. Plus, the holes don't line up in the jig for the nose of the bit. I tried the other side and it seemed to work much better.

Has anyone else had this issue or am I making a dumb mistake?

To make sure the countersink is perpendicular to the skin, simply tape two trailing edges together in opposite directions so the outer surfaces are parallel. Stagger them so the drilled holes align with the large holes.

 

[gremaley]

To make sure the countersink is perpendicular to the skin, simply tape two trailing edges together in opposite directions so the outer surfaces are parallel. Stagger them so the drilled holes align with the large holes.

Great tip!