J

Jamesey

Well Known Member
Any downside you can think of to fitting the stall warning switch when skinning the wings rather than the skin on/off method earlier in the construction sequence as per the plans? Plenty access as far as I can see before skin finally nailed down.
Thanks,
Jim D
 
Sure -But...

For starters, it is not much fun no matter how you do it. If memory serves me correctly, I had my skin on/off at least three times before I was satisfied with the fit and adjustment. I had the main spar propped up on wood so the skin could be easily be slid on and off while tweaking the switch assembly. Propping up the wing with the other skins on may be more challenging or require extra helpers.

Could it be done later in the build? Sure ? but I feel it would be ill advised. With the inboard and outboard skins already riveted in place, it would mean flip-flopping the wing at least a couple of extra times ? in my opinion, this all adds to the possibly of something bad happening during all the flip-flopping.

Happy building,

John
 
Stall Warning

John,
Thanks for your thoughts. However if the wing is skinned (bottom skins come first) once flipped over why would I have to change back? The access has still got to be better than through the access hole. I'm I missing something (more than likely from previous experience, that's why I'm asking).
Jim D
 
I can not remember the assembly sequence from a few years ago. But the stall switch assembly is mounted with two screws. If you mount it now and it turns out to be in the way for some reason, then remove it. What have you got to lose? Go for it. The hard part is getting it to work when actually stalling. Some builders luck out and it works without adjustment. Others get frustrated adjusting the vane several times.
Joe Gores
 
Not yet flown of course, but mine is so out of adjustment, I cannot even get the micro switch to click!
 
Jim,

As others, including myself, have mentioned the switch could be installed after skinning the bottom first ... but in my opinion you are making the instillation harder on yourself.

If you have a young back and want to lean over the wing, go for it. If your knees are in great shape, then working through the inspection plate hole while the leading edge of the wing is hanging over the edge of the workbench is doable, but is not a piece of cake. Being able to slide the skin on and off to get the washer buildup and vane position correct is truly much easier on the body ? so that is the path I took.

My suggestion ?. before installing the inboard or outboard skins, place the W-1202 skin in position to get a feel for the level of difficulty of accessing the switch assembly with tools through the inspection hole and base your assembly decision accordingly.

John
 
Picure

Jim D
I couldn't remember my construction sequence in regards to the stall horn, but I found a picture showing the horn installed and no skins on the wing. The picture shows the wing upside down and skinless. I had no problems after installing the horn in regards to the skins. I would recommend that you protect the vane after installing so you don't catch it on things or bump into it. Go to http://www.scgarrett.com and click on Stall Horn Picture in the list.
Hope that helps.
 
Don-- Check the contact "fingers"

I spent a LOT of time trying to adjust the stall warner to get a tone during the pre-flight PAP tests. I finally pulled the pin and slid the left wing out a bit. Measured the distance from the wing skin to the fuselage side and the distances from the rib and the fuselage to the brass contact "fingers" and discovered they weren't even touching. I bent them out a fair amount, then re-attached the wing and then had to go through the adjustment process to shut the bloody thing off. After getting everything right a few months after first flight someone leaned up against the wing, bent the vane, and I had to go through the whole "tweak the vane, test hop. tweak it again" routine.

Wayne
 
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