Chappyd

Well Known Member
I'm running my wires back to the tail. How do you connect the trim servo wires to the trim wire cable? Do you solder them? I'd like to have a disconnect back there for elevator removal someday if needed. What do you guys do?
 
D connector pins

I used d connector pins and sockets with heat shrink over the pins and the cable, suggested in other threads and it works well. I also used d connectors for the sitck to trim connections.
 
Simple

I'm running my wires back to the tail. How do you connect the trim servo wires to the trim wire cable? Do you solder them? I'd like to have a disconnect back there for elevator removal someday if needed. What do you guys do?

Go to a good hobby shop and get a 3 pin Deans plug and a 2 pin Deans plug. These have gold pins that make a very solid connection.

Use the 3 pin Deans for the colored wires and the 2 pin for the white wires. The two pin will enable you to reverse the plug quickly if you have it going the wrong direction.

When you've insured everything is working properly, unplug and put a piece of heat shrink over the connector and plug it back together. Shrink the tubing and you're good to go. You can even bind both connectors together with a larger piece if so desired.
 
Cool

Thanks for the ideas!

They still make those Dean pins!?!, man I remember using them on my R/C club's battery cycler. That's about 20 yrs ago.
 
Here is mine.

servoconnectnj2.jpg


servocable1dq3.jpg


I laced the connectors together - probably getting lace happy - and I'll likely wrap them in a condom like poly bag before flight.

The other cable is for the OAT probe on the underside of the HS.

Jim Sharkey
RV6 - Wings on!
 
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Go to a good hobby shop and get a 3 pin Deans plug and a 2 pin Deans plug. These have gold pins that make a very solid connection.

Use the 3 pin Deans for the colored wires and the 2 pin for the white wires. The two pin will enable you to reverse the plug quickly if you have it going the wrong direction.

I disagree with using a connector in this manner.
I believe the airplane should be built in such a way that if anything is ever disassembled during maint., that it can not be accidentally reconnected in reverse from what it is supposed to be.

Use a connector that is keyed. Do not plug in these to wires fully (locking them into the connector) until final system testing. At this time they can be swapped around if needed and then pertinently installed. Later, if an elevator is ever removed there is no possibility of getting teh connections mixed up.
 
I just finished up these connections this past weekend. I used 9-pin connectors that I bought from B&C with insertable pins. I prefer gold-plated pins that you crimp on to the wires over the soldered type of connectors. For me, they are easier to install with a higher degree of quality. Those solder pins are very small and I guess my eye sight isn't what it used to be. I stripped off twice the length I needed and then doubled the wire back over itself before inserting it into the pin and crimping it. Gave it a mighty tug and it was tight and strong. Because there is room back there, I went ahead and used the plastic shells around the connectors to provide strain relief for the wires. I will use silicone tape to wrap the connectors once they are installed to make them water-proof and then I'll tie wrap them down to the rear deck to hold them securely.

I'll offer you a little advice from someone who has wired multiple airplanes. Don't scrimp on electrical tools, connectors, wire, etc. Nothing will ruin the joy of your new airplane more than electrical gremlins. Just a single ground wire that makes intermittent contact can drive you nuts. You'll pull your hair out trying to track down problems and often times, you'll have no idea where to start. The best advice I can offer is to treat every connection with extreme care. Buy good crimping tools for pins, BNC connectors, and ring terminals. Use high quality connectors, switches, and heat shrink tubing as well. You will curse yourself later if you don't. We know this, because we've all been there before.
 
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Explanation

I disagree with using a connector in this manner.
I believe the airplane should be built in such a way that if anything is ever disassembled during maint., that it can not be accidentally reconnected in reverse from what it is supposed to be.

The 3 pin is keyed. I should have mentioned that once the proper direction is established I marked the 2 pin for proper orientation.

These connectors are far lighter than a d-sub and easier to deal with.

It's your airplane, do what you want, I'm just trying to help.
 
Solder and sleeve

I just solder and sleeve this kind of interface for obvious reasons. Be sure you include adequate wire length for service loop. Where I have interfaces that require disassembly for configuration changes like tip tank removal and racing wing tip installations involving strobes, Nav lights, landing/taxi lights I use sleeved knife splices (make sure the fit is snug - squeeze before assembly if necessary).

Bob Axsom
 
Molex Connector

I'm running my wires back to the tail. How do you connect the trim servo wires to the trim wire cable? Do you solder them? I'd like to have a disconnect back there for elevator removal someday if needed. What do you guys do?
I am a big fan of Molex connectors and used them throughout the plane including the trim motors :D Rosie

Molex.jpg
 
Molex

I used the .062 pin Molex connectors. Used them on the servos and at the stick, relays and indicators.

Buy the kit Rosie gave the link to. The .062 Designer kit comes with an assortment of connectors and everything you need to assemble. About $60.00 and well worth it.

I purchased both the .062 kit and the .093 kit and used them throughout the plane. The .093 crimping tool(included in the kit) also works on the Ampeg strobe connctors Whelen uses.

Ted