M

marvk

Member
Well here it goes, I have been putting this off but it is really bothering me. Somehow when I wasnt paying attention, (I had a picture in my mind of how the static ports look on my old 150). I installed my Safe air ports on the outside of the fuselage. I used JB weld and riveted them in Place. Then I realized what I had done. After kicking myself numerous times I have decided to put it to the forum to see what I should do.
So should I just leave them alone or attempt to remove them and Install new ones from the inside. (I am concerned about the JB weld I Used) What are your thoughts. I have read some threads on Static ports and incorrect IAS. Help! (RV7)
 
I would drill out the rivets then get a hardwood wood block or a brass bar and give the safe air port a tap from the side. JB Weld is brittle after it sets.
I'll bet it pops right off. Re-install with existing pre-drilled holes. No sweat, unless you have all your fuse skins on.:D If you're left with an over sized hole,
install as it should be and use aero-fill or other aproved epoxy filler to fill the void between the port orofice and the fuse skin. My port stands proud of the skin
by about an eight of an inch.
 
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The error referenced is due to the 'port' hole being too close to the surface, yours would be dramatically away from the surface.

I don't have experience with jb weld, if it is pliable I might see if a small wire like fine piano wire would work down behind it and 'cut' the sealant.

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@Lorne Interesting, so would you tap from the aft edge to use the bulkhead for support? I would worry about it 'rotating' on the vertical axis and causing a dent?
 
I think you might get some flex if the port is installed too far from the bulkhead, so some judicious tapping from the inside (against the outside of the threaded element) would work. Although another method might prove successful and that is by using a very dull 1" (+-) wood chisel and gently tap as to provide a wedging action under the port base to pop this off (after drilling out the rivet first of course.
 
Use a heat gun to soften the epoxy and it will detach with little effort. Just pay attention and don't overheat the area. You don't need to heat it to the point where it smokes!

Mark Olson RV-7A F1-EVO Rocket
 
Leave them on the outside

Back when I bought my ports, the nipple didn?t stand proud of the skin, which caused some errors with the static system. Thus, I elected to mount mine on the outside, which works well and doesn?t detract from the looks or slow the plane down more than 1/16th a knot.

 
mark

If/when you take these off, try to place some witness marks with a felt pen to get the proper rivet alignment for re-attachment.:)
Regards
 
I mounted mine on the outside for the same reason as Bill R. They work fine. I believe at least one other RV-10 builder did the same.
 
mine are on the outside

I originally installed my static ports from the inside of the skin so they were flush with the outside of the skin. They were installed in the location van's recommended, RV-6. Unfortunately, I found quite a bit of airspeed error at the higher end of the speed range, > 140 MPH. I reinstalled them on the outside of the skin so they are about 1/8" proud. This eliminated almost all of the airspeed error.
 
The JB Weld is probably stuck on there for good and you'd risk damaging the skin if you try to remove it. I'd leave em alone too.

We used some large truss-head pop-rivet bodies for static ports on the RV-8 and they stick out almost 1/8" also. No significant airspeed errors either.
 
Confession static port

Mark, you're not the first to make that mistake, ..one other option I have not seen mentioned is find a friend with a small lathe. Cut the outer edge of the port face down the same or sligtly more thickness as the fuselage skin (mark your rivet holes) and put the unit back in from the inside, make sure you have the fuselage hole rounded nicely. The unit is thick enough to still support the rivets and most people won't be able to tell it wasn't designed that way. will try to send you some pic's when I get home. Depending on the hole proximity to the bulkhead you may need to flatten one side of the port slightly. Hope it helps
 
Doesn't sound like a good idea to me

N8RV said:
600 degrees F shouldn't be too difficult to accomplish. Drill out the rivets, hit the goober with a few quick passes with a propane torch and presto! Not sure I'd have the cojones to do that, but ... :eek:

Good luck!
Click to expand...

Don,
Considering that aluminum likes to warp when heated above 300 degrees, heating it to 600 degrees does not seem like a great idea to me. Just my opinion.
Charlie
 
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