jump4way said:
Any thoughts on this porter cable 30 gallon compressor?

http://m.tractorsupply.com/en/store/porter-cablereg;-portable-belt-drive-air-compressor-30-gal

I am uncertain if I'll paint the exteriors gym RV-8 but am planning to paint the interior. The gun I have asks for 12 CFM at 45 psi I think. Will this hold me back an unacceptable amount? I'm not wired for 230v so the larger ones pose more of a challenge both eclectically and transport.
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With 5-6 cfm on the nameplate it will cycle more. It can be done, but there are limitations you should be aware of. The compressors have a limit on the number of starts per hour typically 5/hr. This is due to the heat build up in the starting windings of the motor. I toasted my 5 hp IR 60 gal this way. If you just let it run, then it will got hot, and hot air does not allow the moisture to condense and it will condense at your paint gun when spraying - after a while. If you are in an arid climate, then much less of an issue. You can double up on inline dryers, and use a box fan to blow on the tank to keep it cooler.

These things may happen, or only after a very long session. If you are going to spray a single cup of paint (1.5 pints), and double the inline dryer, have a long hose and you should be ok. You may have to wait for the pressure to build back up, and after three compressor cycles, let it rest for 15 minutes. Don't forget the fan. I think I toasted my motor after maybe 10 cycles, so don't worry too much, there is some margin.

Nice looking compressor system, though. 30 gal is minimum size that requires ASME code for construction = GOOD!
 
Thanks for the reply. I keep going back and forth regarding the ease of purchasing this 110V unit vs the complexity and cost of getting a 230v 60 gallon unit which I know has the CFM requirement met.

I'm not sure I'm much closer to my decision but I do appreciate that feedback as well as the education regarding keeping the pump cool.
 
Answer?

I am pretty sure that you already know the answer. An inadequate tool is a real PITA. I recommend that you purchase the 220V 8/10 cu/fm tool that you are probably looking at as an alternative to the one that you have listed. Stick with a name brand.

Waiting for an air compressor to 'fill back up' isn't good - kind of like trying to use a wrench or hammer that is marginally not large enough. If you own the property where you are building, you'll probably find many ways to employ the 220V circuit. Good jobs begin with good tools. Don't go short.
 
jump4way said:
I keep going back and forth regarding the ease of purchasing this 110V unit vs the complexity and cost of getting a 230v 60 gallon unit
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Without hesitation, go with the 220v. I started with my (albeit smaller than the one you're looking at) 10-gallon I had for years. Worked fine for the emp; although there were a few work sessions where I gave the little thing a workout - and my ears:eek: When I started the wings I really noticed the limits of my compressor. I'm also priming w/ an HVLP and the 10-gallon wasn't cutting it on the larger skins.

Depending on your home's set up, install can be a piece of cake. I hard wired mine, which was simply a matter of installing a proper amp breaker and the proper gage wire - done. The installation was what prevented me from considering 220v for the longest time, but it was a non-issue. You can't believe how nice it is to work all day in the shop and not have the compressor cycle once;). All told, I probably only spent $250 more than yours (including install supplies) for my 60g/220v.
 
No Question.......

Go with a 220V compressor. The extra cost of installing a 220V circuit will be forgotten long before you are finished enjoying the benefits.
Long term you will never be happy with a 110V compressor, I promise!

Find a good 2-stage 220V compressor and be done with it.
 
Consider a different spray gun

I too faced the same dilemma as you. I did not have access to 220 power for the first two years of the build so opted for a 110 volt 30 gallon two cylinder compressor rated at 6.2 CFM @ 40 PSI / 5.5 CFM @ 90 PSI with a motor that can be easily converted to run on 220 volts by moving two wires at a terminal strip on the side of the motor. (This feature I will use because the hangar I just moved into has 220 power for the door which I will need to use because the hangar is so far from the power panel it will not fire up the compressor correctly on 110 because of the large voltage loss from the wire run being so long - the voltage at the motor drops to 90 volts).

Anyway, more to the point, I opted to use a spray gun that is specifically designed to spray great on less air. I chose an Eastwood Concours HVLP spray gun that sprays using 4 CFM @ 29 psi ? so my compressor easily keeps up with the gun. I have been spraying Akzo primer with the 1.4 tip with wonderful results and bought a 1.8 tip for spraying the much thicker JetFlex water reducible interior paint. The gun sprays quite nice overall.

http://www.eastwood.com/ew-concours-gun-1-2-and-1-4-tips-plastic-andmetal-cup.html

As a side note, the gun can be outfitted to use the DeVilbiss disposable cups and lids. These are nice and also allow the gun to spray upside down, which really comes in handy at times ? they are available in sizes from 9 to 34 ounces.

Happy Building,
 
220V. All good compressors are 220. New motors are pretty cheap if you toast one. WRT wiring, your oven and your dryer run 220v. You can make an extension cord from wiring etc from Lowes or HD. Just pay attention the amp chart on their wall to size your cord correctly. If extension cords make you queasy, just remember that all the wiring in your walls are essentially extension cords, sized properly. Do it once, do it right.

I have a 60 gal IR in the garage that I build with and an old Craftsman 30gal roll around that I spray with. I also have a 9gal cheater tank that is portable; or increases the capacity of my 30 gal. They're a cheap way to get more volume and thus less cycling. A waterheater will do the same - we did so in an auto shop I worked in long ago - probably not a leaking one though (!).

Spray AKZO with a primer pistol. Only way to go for that primer. I spray mine at 20 psi - small parts and big skins the same. I use the cheater tank for it. A proper HLPV gun is overkill for primer and a PITA to clean up for small jobs.
 
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