[Jerry Cochran]

Folks,

I did not want to use carpet on my -6a so used some kind of foam and it def did not work well. I'd like to use something like a spray or brush on sound deadener that would also withstand shoes, boots, etc. The foam stuff had alum plates attached but again not a good idea.

So, what is everyone doing for this excluding carpet??

Thanks,

 

[rv9av8tr]

Floor boards

The planes I've rode in, the floor vibrates so much, it "tickled" my feet. I used an 1/8" hardwood plywood core and used contact cement to glue high density carpet foam on one side and a rugged outdoor carpet on top. The carpet will be easy to peel off if it wears out and replace with new.

http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=n539rv&project=161&category=2189&log=91817&row=29

 

[Rick6a]

........So, what is everyone doing for this excluding carpet....

Jerry,

I don't know what product is out there that can offer better corrosion protection and a very durable surface than Akzo epoxy primer. That's all I use for "carpet and upholstery" and short of using nothing at all, you can't build much lighter than that. This photo shows over 5 years of service. Every now and then, I'll use an MEK soaked rag to clean up stains and dirt. Don't try that with rattle can primer. For me, sound deadening qualities are not necessary nor am I interested in listening to music when I fly. We have to use headphones anyway and my Telex Stratus headphones take care of ambient noise even though 95% of the time I fly with the ANR turned off. YMMV.

 

[Jerry Cochran]

Part of the problem I hate is that carpet will pick up and hold every little piece of junk or FOD that is around then your shoes transfer them to the forward part of the seat cushion as we old guys struggle to get out of the 6-7's. Easier to clean/vac plain alum I guess.

Guess I'll just forget the carpet/foam and go with bare alum and put up with the "tingle" Mike just referred to. Reminds me of my old Triumph bike that would put your hands to sleep at certain r's... Then there are those shakin'/quakin' Harleys... Not to start anything here...

Thanks,

 

[WingsOnWheels]

Marine grade upholstery vinyl glued over wood might work. That stuff can take a beating and won't hold dirt. Just a thought.

 

[L.Adamson]

Reminds me of my old Triumph bike that would put your hands to sleep at certain r's... Then there are those shakin'/quakin' Harleys... Not to start anything here...

I too, remember my 67' Triumph Bonneville. The fact that Harleys tend to get uncomfortable on long road trips (why so many are trailered to Sturgis); and why I finally put some FAA approved matting on the RV floor with light carpet, as well as using the ANR feature of my Telex digital headphones..

There are some reasons to "rough it", but I say why? My heavier RV beats a bunch of lighter weights anyway.....

Note: The fire resistant matting was from a travel trailer accessory store.

L.Adamson -- RV6A

 

[plehrke]

Went to air craft interior aisle at Kohl's

I bought 2 heavy duty black bath floor mates. Tack them in with some velco. I pull them up every couple months and shake out or wash. Floor still looks like it was just painted after 3.5 years and 350+ hours.

 

[Greg Arehart]

I put in pieces of 3/4" foam padding (ACS) cut to fit and then laid a piece of Al sheet on top, also cut to fit. The Al slides under the bottom side longeron, which holds it down (gotta do some test fitting and trimming to get this right). The center side of the Al is bent 90 degrees and slides down next to the center console. I drilled some holes in the "tab" of the Al to fit over the screw heads in the center console. This stays in place perfectly, giving me a "sandwich" of Al (skin) - foam padding - Al (floor) which is relatively easily removable. On the Al floor, I put a patch of skateboard fabric (like wing-walk, cheap at the skate shop) to keep my feet from slipping. I notice very little vibration on this floor.

greg

 

[Shockwave]

3M makes a Rubberized Undercoating that I found at a local autostore in a spray can. It's advertised as corrosion protection, sound deadening and insulation to cars, trucks and RV's.

It has a rubbery texture, not unlike the wing walks. It says it can be used over primer in case one is worried that it could attack aluminum.

 

[Bob Axsom]

My experience

Part of the problem I hate is that carpet will pick up and hold every little piece of junk or FOD that is around then your shoes transfer them to the forward part of the seat cushion as we old guys struggle to get out of the 6-7's. Easier to clean/vac plain alum I guess.
...
Thanks,

My experience is very satisfactory. I bought the black rubber/foam material and carpeting material from Becki Orndorf (sp?) along with the rest of the upholstery material and it has worked out great for 6 years in our RV-6A. I qualify for the senior discounts many times over and I'm currently 10-15 pounds overweight (I'm working on it) but I find the carpet and 3/4" thick foam gives me good traction, freedom from vibration, good sound proofing, excellent wear resistance and protection against lower fuselage skin damage from dropped tools, etc. The black material is the same height as the floor stringers and the carpet is glued across the floor stringers and foam. It vacuums nicely and tends to minimize FOD migration. I really think you should reconsider the carpeting bias.

Bob Axsom

 

[L.Adamson]

Part of the problem I hate is that carpet will pick up and hold every little piece of junk or FOD that is around then your shoes transfer them to the forward part of the seat cushion as we old guys struggle to get out of the 6-7's. Easier to clean/vac plain alum I guess.

For starters, we use small color coordinated bath towels folded in half & tucked into the seat. This is where the foot goes first when getting in.
I value my leather seats too much!

L.Adamson --- RV6A

 

[bkilby]

I am putting in 3/8" black sound proofing foam on the floor, and then 1/2" aluminum honeycomb (same stuff used in gulfstream jets) on top of that

 

[RV7AV8R]

I placed 1/8 inch x 1 inch AL strips down the center of each floor panel to stiffen the al sheet and absorb some of the vibration energy. It is attached with double back sticky tape so I can remove it if I want. This helps but was not enough. Then I went to a Jet Ski store (Kawaski) and purchsed the black rubber foam material they use for foot and knee padding. You can get it in a sheet and cut to fit. I layed one piece in each of the floor panels. Someone here menteioned using velcro to hold down, that is a good idea I will add to the black foam material.

 

[flyboy1963]

floor cover - carpet too!

hey,
sorry, but I have carpet on top of 1/2" black foam insulation. The foam burns and smokes in a disturbing way, and the floor is one place I figured could get hot.... for many reasons.
I wrapped the foam in two layers of heavy Reynolds aluminum foil, then laid it in the space between the angle stringers. ( 2 per side) Makes it at least 10 x more heat resistant, and contains some out-gassing when breaking down at hi temps in a fire.
This gave an almost level surface. Then I cut chunks of cheap jute-backed carpet, and soaked it with fire retardant ( both sides!) and wedged it between the centre tunnel and the sidewall.
I didn't measure the db difference, but just intended it as overall heat and sound transfer reduction.
Grains of sand that aren't trapped in the carpet still roll into the most inaccessible nooks & crannies, but it's a start.